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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Don't really want to start of by asking "stupid" questions, but I had limited help on other sites.

Long story short: bought a bike and after only ~30km the clutch disappeared. Actually it felt like the cable has broken (which wasn't). After disassembling the whole clutch, found the center nut completely loose and unscrewed. Therefore, I have pulled the whole clutch assembly when i tried to use the clutch. Everything looks fine (no visible damage or similar issues).

So now the problem: After putting everything back together (big thanks to RexxyPup’s 101 Clutch Removal and Refitting for 955 thread) and pushing the whole clutch onto the oil pump "drive gear", the nut still doesn't go on fully, see picture 1. There is ~3.6mm of thread left on the nut. The problem is that I have pushed the basket as far as I could and the sleeve sits flush with the outer basket and is pushed all the way it can go. I have tried to "fit" the sleeve without the basket, to see if it was all the way, see picture 2. It sits in the same position when fully assembled.

In one of RexxyPup's photos he showed how it should line up, and mine is not lining up as his. Reading the service manual doesn't really help (it just state that the sleeve and clutch basket has to line up, which they do). Now I'm thinking has the oil pump sprocket moved? I have tried to pull it backward and push it back and it seems to be all the way it can go. :confused:
 

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If I remember from having mine apart recently, getting the clutch all the way on was a bit of a pain. The manual talks about using something to push on the holes in the large gear connected to the transmission output shaft (photo below). When I did that, I got a decent amount of additional push on the shaft. The other thing is, that bearing needs to be off the shaft when you install the clutch if I'm remembering right or you won't get it all the way on.

The oil pump gears look fine, make sure the clutch is aligned with those pins, and when the bearing is fully seated you should juuuust about be able to see the end on the splines on the inside. Again I think I remember it needing a lot of encouragement to get all the way flush and I had to take it on and off a few times before I finally got everything lined up right.

My guess is either that bearing is getting hung up (just wiggle everything until it slides in) or the sprocket/clutch is not 100% aligned.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
If I remember from having mine apart recently, getting the clutch all the way on was a bit of a pain. The manual talks about using something to push on the holes in the large gear connected to the transmission output shaft (photo below). When I did that, I got a decent amount of additional push on the shaft. The other thing is, that bearing needs to be off the shaft when you install the clutch if I'm remembering right or you won't get it all the way on.

The oil pump gears look fine, make sure the clutch is aligned with those pins, and when the bearing is fully seated you should juuuust about be able to see the end on the splines on the inside. Again I think I remember it needing a lot of encouragement to get all the way flush and I had to take it on and off a few times before I finally got everything lined up right.

My guess is either that bearing is getting hung up (just wiggle everything until it slides in) or the sprocket/clutch is not 100% aligned.
Well the problem I have is that the sleeve (for the outer clutch basket) hides the end off the splines (as seen in picture 2.) After I have placed everything (first the basket, pushed onto the oil pump sprocket, then the sleeve), the sleeve sits in the same position as shown in picture 2. :confused:

Unless, after tightening the nut to 150nm it will compress the washer, but I doubt I will get ~3mm from there.
 

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No you won't, I know with mine, I could just see the back of the splines, but they were effectively covered. If yours are covered by a few mm, that may be the problem to start with. It is a little tough to tell from the pictures and things without seeing it in person. Anyone you know also mechanically handy that could try and help out locally?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well that's kinda the problem, there isn't an authorized triumph service for 300km radius and the friends that have some mechanical knowledge, all of it is more about the suspension (and only for cars, not bikes).

Funny thing, I have tried to measure the "thickness" of the whole assembly (outer clutch + thrust washer + inner clutch + washer + nut = distance to auxiliary drive), it ended up at ~60mm, whereas, the input shaft protruding from the auxiliary oil pump drive is only ~57mm in length. Hence, I'm missing 3mm. Something is thicker than it should be?.. I looked up the stamped code on the outer clutch basket "20G19" and found on ebay, it should be used for Daytona 675 (2006-2013), 955i Daytona (1997-2006) and Rocket (2005-2013). Any one, has a chance to look up info on this? Check photos of the clutch basket or maybe have it opened right now? I have contacted triumph support and they could not help me much either, but I just told them this new "information", maybe they will be able to say something about it (if it is different part and not interchangeable).
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You sure 100% the nut is on the correct way? to me it looks like it is backwards & I think the lip should go the other way..
That is an interesting idea, but it was this way when I took it apart, and it can be seen on other photos on the web, and on bikebandit.com schematics (number 19 and 20) and the washer inner diameter is smaller then the lip on the nut.


My guess today is that the outer clutch comp is from the wrong bike (too thick). Official triumph support could not help with the part code stamped onto the clutch basket (20G19), so I need to look into this, what code should be stamped on the original outer clutch comp part or buy the clutch bushing (part marked as nr.5, official part. no. T1171335) to see what length (equals to the thickness of the outer clutch comp) it is.



Edit: a quick look at bikebandit for Dayton 675 2011y, the clutches are different (oem part no) and even the clutch bushing is different. On daytona it has a groove on the top (seen in schematics, number 4), when on speed triple it is smooth, at least in the schematics (number 5)...


So now I'm 110% sure someone put an outer clutch basket from a daytona (or the whole clutch assembly)...
 

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Mine is also stamped 20G19. See this picture below, does sound like something is out of spec, maybe the bearing or sleeve or something.

 

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Here are a few shots from when I had mine apart recently. Not sure if these help, and don't mind the broken spring, on the selector shaft, that's what I was in there fixing. I'm going to guess the sleeve is the most likely candidate for being too long. Unfortunately I don't have more pictures of the parts of the assembly.





 

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Discussion Starter #10
For some reason I can not see the pictures (maybe they are restricted to your friends or something).

But yea, I was looking through photos on the web and saw 20G19 stamped on speed triple clutches as well. My guess is still that the sleeve is too long (which looks to be the very first thing to misalign) or the gearbox input shaft has went into the gearbox too deeply (which is probably impossible, haven't looked how it is assembled in the schematics). So I am still sticking to the idea that the outer clutch basket is from different model (if they fit), maybe from an older engine model. For now, I am planning to reassemble everything, tighten to specs and leave it for the spring/summer time and look how the bike rides and try to take it to a shop or even take a trip to authorized triumph service (~700km and another country.. :D).

thanks for all the input.
 

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Off topic, but i cant find the tool needed to hold the basket when undoing the nut? I cannot find it anywhere & its doing my head in!
 

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I got mine off ebay, just search the part number for your bike (presumably T3880305) and there are loads of pattern tools available.
 
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