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I'm storing my Tbird for two or three months over the winter. The manual says to remove the spark plugs and put oil in the cylinders. I'm not sure that's really necessary as I plan on running the bike once a week for 15 minutes or so. Nevertheless...

I can't seem to find any info on getting the spark plugs out. Do you have to remove the gas tank to get at them?

Draeger
 

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You dont have to remove it but you have to lift it. A true PITA if your going to run it now and then I would'nt bother.
 

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If you're gonna start the machine every three or four weeks,ya don't have to put any oil in the cylinders.Just make sure you stick to that schedule.And don't touch the throttle until it's warmed up.In other words,don't rev the motor because it takes a little time for the oil to warm up and circulate thru the motor, especially if it's been setting for a few weeks.

As for the plugs,ya do not have to remove the tank.Just remove the three bezel screws so you can lift it just enough [be carefull not to disturb or pull on the wires going to the bezel] to remove the bolt in front of the tank,then lay the bezel back down in place and replace the three screws loosely so bezel doesn't move,then loosen the back tank bolt,and lift the tank from the front,like a hood opens on a car, about 8 inches or so.Then place something about the same length, like a wooden dowel or roll of paper towels, to hold it up so you can gain access to the plugs and coils.And be carefull not to bump that support so the tank doesn't fall.

This is fresh on my mind because I just changed my plugs a month and 3000 miles ago at the 25,000 mile mark.I'm now alittle over the 28,000 mile mark.Not bad for a 15 month old machine,whadaya think??? lol Dave!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the quick reply guys... that really helps. I think I'm going to just start the bike every week or two and let it warm up as suggested. Not that long till February.

Dave... thats a lot of mileage! I just can't wait till this winter is over so I can catch up to ya :)
 

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Yes it is a lot of mileage,but not by my standards.lol The last machine I owned before buying the TBIRD,was 10 years old and had 200,000 miles on it,yet STILL ran and looked like it was brand new.And the guy who bought it thought he died and went to heaven.lol Dave!!!
 

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Many people recommend not starting the engine at all during storage as more wear occurs during cold start. I simply change the engine oil, fill the fuel tank and add a double dose of Marine Stabil, pump up the tires 4-5 lbs over normal, plug in the battery tender and cover the bike with a breathable cover. If you are concerned with upper cylinder lubrication then I would simply add some Marvel Mystery Oil to your fuel along with the stabilizer and run the engine long enough to pump it through the system. You can get both at WalMart.

BTW, Marine Stabil is the green color and is excellent for storing any engine and prevents E10 gelling issues and lubricates the fuel system. I have used Stabil for storing boats for over 25 years
 

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I don't store it, but i often don't ride for as much as a month. Occasionally even more. I don't ride in wet under any circumstances, and in cold i seldom do either. And with all i've read about ethanol i feel even more obligated to my bike to insure it's good for a long sit.
 

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I don't store it, but i often don't ride for as much as a month. Occasionally even more. I don't ride in wet under any circumstances, and in cold i seldom do either. And with all i've read about ethanol i feel even more obligated to my bike to insure it's good for a long sit.
It gets cold there? :eek:
 

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As noted, you do not have to remove the tank to get to the spark plugs... but let me tell you, it makes getting to them a heck of a lot easier!

That being said, if you are going to fire it up once or twice a month, then I say don't bother. If you are worried about the cold start bit, hook up an electric heater to blow on the engine for an hour before you fire it up to warm up that oil a bit first.
 

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First rule of thumb in this business:Never make anymore work for yourself than ya have to.

The trick to doing this job after the tank is raised is to unplug and lift the coils off,then R+R the plugs.And ya do em one at a time.The two outer plugs are easy to get at and done from each the side of the machine.However,I find that performing the task of accessing the two inner plugs is best done from the front of the machine,while straggling the front wheel.When goin after the inside right plug,which is the hardest one to get at,you'll have to remove one or two small screws that hold a plastic cover in place on top of that plug/coil.After the screw are out,just move that cover a tad in either direction just enough to access the coil and then the plug.Then just move it back into place and install the screw.

And don't forget to put never seize on the threards of the plugs and to apply die electric grease on the coils where they push down onto the plugs,and around the outer edges of the coils where they push down into the cyliner head.The next time ya service em, you'll be glad ya did that.You'll see what I'm talkin about when ya get into the job.I think the whole job,start to finish,took me alittle over an hour.Needless to say,the next time ya do it,it will be easier and quicker.Like anything else,the first time is ALWAYS the hardest. Dave!!!
 
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