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Discussion Starter #1
I knew the MOT for my 2010 scrambler was due so organised it in time (on a Monday when I could work from home easily). So a coming home the clutch cable snapped. I was able to get one for the Monday in fit in the cold on Monday night in time for the delayed MOT on the Tuesday.
Tuesday morning and the battery is dead & I had to bump start down a hill (200m or so away). Ok all good, MOT passed and they charged the battery for me.
Went to use it tonight, no more than 24 hours later & it’s dead again. Bumped quite easily but I know it’s going to be dead tomorrow.

So enough whining any ideas? I had a new battery not more than a year ago and upgraded the regulator at the same time. I haven’t done a drop test yet (I’ll charge again Friday & do one at the weekend) but trying to work out where the problem might be.
I don’t have power in the garage I keep it in so I have to rely on a solar battery keeper & it does have the factory fitted alarm.
 

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Tried an Aldi solar battery charger in a car when I went on holiday last winter came home and it was flat as a pancake . Won't be doing that again . Someone will probably pop up and tell me what a numpty I am they only work when its bright enough .
 

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Depending on what and how much you spent on your battery, it very well may be junk. Motorcycle batteries are on of those deals where you absolutely get what you pay for. Skimp out for a cheap battery and it will certainly leave you stranded in a year or 2. If you get lucky enough for it to last that long. Take it in to a local parts store and have it load tested as others mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It’s a yuasa battery that I commissioned myself & charged properly. There shouldn’t be an issue there.
Doing a drop test over the weekend. Just hoping it’s not something in the charging system.
 

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God loves an optimist, solar in the UK lol.

Check the Rec/Reg plug in the headight bucket. Had to hard wire the connection in the Bonneville recently.
 

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Put a voltmeter on the battery. You should see something over 12-1/2 volts. Start the bike, now you should see something over 13-1/2 volts. If you see less than you started with, it's the charging system. If you see 13-1/2, buy a battery.

If you didn't see 13-1/2V...

Unplug the regulator/rectumfryer from the alternator and start the bike while checking voltage coming directly from the alternator leads. You should see a lot of volts (like 50 -80 volts). If you don't see any volts, the alternator is dead. If you see a lot of volts then the regulator/rectumfryer is dead.
 

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If you can't keep a battery tender on it that factory alarm will kill your battery in no time. If it's not too much of an insurance issue, personally I'd ditch the alarm & fit the bypass plug.
 

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If you can't keep a battery tender on it that factory alarm will kill your battery in no time. If it's not too much of an insurance issue, personally I'd ditch the alarm & fit the bypass plug.
Yep, look no further, I think your analysis is spot on. The alarm draws a tiny current even when the bike is switched off, and it may be tiny but its enough to flatten the battery in a week or so. With an EFI bike its worse since the starter won't operate below a battery voltage of about 12.5v. Solar? Not in the UK, the charger only produces any appreciable output if the sun is shining. The OP would be better off, if he can't get the bike near a mains point, would be to get a portable power bank, keep it charged in the house and leave it on the bike every couple of days to top the battery up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The alarm is an issue that has concerned me for a while & to be honest I hate the thing. Unfortunately in London... insurance etc. (You get the picture).
I do get to park in a nice underground car park at work where there is power. I’ve been thinking of getting tender & leaving it hidden there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got some time to go & look at this yesterday (first chance since bump starting it on Wednesday). I was expecting it to be dead but I went in there & it started the first time! no extra charging.
The only thing I had done was a suggestion from a mechanic I know. I put a rag over the seat above the battery, the idea being to stop condensation in the area that can drain it.
I ran a bunch of tests and everything looks good.
Off was 12.07v (bit low but not new battery dead)
Started & was hitting 12.8/13v cold at about 1000rm
13.8v at 2500rpm

Did a full charge last night & left it in there all day today & it’s happily at 12.6v
I can’t find any problems.
Tested the drain on it as well & I’m not getting anything with it switched off so no issues there.
All I can think of is condensation was draining it enough to stop it starting. It’s about 7-8 degrees during the day & it’s fairly damp so this my well be the issue. I've got an old towel I'll start keeping over it which may help.
 
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