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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Afternoon all...

I've just picked up a 2011 speed triple 1050 (the SE model, so it's the older 2010 motor and body style) and am trying to iron out all the inevitable gremlins and issues a used bike always comes with. Any advice, knowledge, or assistance the experienced folks can offer is, as always, much appreciated. Here's what's going on, along with my thoughts on how to address 'em: The motor is acting... weird.

1. I turn the key, prime the pump (whirring sound), the needles bop, and... nothing on the starter. Dead switch. I wait a bit - like maybe a minute - and another sound, lower, happens. Then it starts up just fine like any other bike. So, it's running and...

2. It'll idle fine until you tweak the throttle, and it stalls out. Clutch in, it stalls out. If I wait a few minutes with the bike on, waiting for the idle to increase to about 1200rpm, and all seems well. No stalling. Off I go until...

3. I'm riding around town and the engine randomly chugs, cuts, and surges then smooths out again. Disconcerting at highway speeds. I slow down to cut through a right turn and it's chugging horribly through the turn. Equally disconcerting. I decide I'm gonna go top off the gas tank and...

4. I get approximately 12-16mpg. What the actual f*ck. I've had a striple 1050 before (just a few years ago), and it wasn't awesome on gas but it still got 29-35mpg. I've never experienced a bike that got the same gas mileage as a Hummer.

Some observations on the bike: The bike came with a competition werkes GT can on it. My old one had the Arrow 3-1 factory installed and it ran a bit rich and shot flames, but this CW can just puffs some black smoke when throttling up. Also smells like a lawnmower. Okay, that being said, my thoughts...

1. Something electronic is going through a diagnostic or 'reset' and it's taking forever to do it. Maybe a component is bad, maybe on its way out... my research indicates that the stepper motor/throttle actuator might be part of the problem. I remember my 06 going through the fuel pump prime and then communicating with the mothership (a strange, modem-like sound). This is kinda-sorta like that but it takes about ten times longer and doesn't quite sound the same.

2. Fueling issue. Again, seems like the stepper motor/throttle actuator is at fault here. Just not holding idle until the motor is warmed up. I have an older Duc and a Honda that have manual throttle accelerator levers to assist with warm-up, so it seems like that could be one of the gremlins I'm chasing.

3. Fueling issue. Don't think the stepper is in play here...? Unsure. Could it be a bad spark plug? Clogged injector? I don't know, but it's clearly either fuel or air at this point (or both!). Advice or thoughts appreciated here.

4. Fueling issue. The bike is definitely running super rich, lots of unburnt gasoline smell. My old '06 ran a little rich, had some unburnt guzzline and shot flames, but my mileage was never, ever this bad. I feel like the injectors must be spewing gas constantly or something. Unsure how to address this, or what the highest likelihood culprit is.

I'm not a mechanic, but I'll turn wrenches - especially if I can get help diagnosing the issue. I really love the speed triple (hence why I got my hands on another one!) and having bought plenty of used bikes I was ready to get my hands dirty fixing it up.

I sincerely appreciate any help, advice, or thoughts!
 

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My first thought in light of the random non starting and cutting out is to suggest you check for a broken (or almost broken) wire in the harness especially where it passes and is clamped to the the headstock. Less likely but still possible is similar happening at the bottom of the ignition switch where the wires are soldered in place.

If that's all good then, given the symptoms when you get it running, check all the small hoses in and around the throttle bodies. Any sign of perishing, cracking or splits at the ends replace them all.

12-16mpg is hard to believe but given you're getting lots of unburnt gasoline smell perhaps the temp sensors (air and water) are failing to send the right signal so the ECU thinks it's cold all the time so is running on the rich cold start mixture all the time. This then leads to fouled plugs and all the issues that follow.

Even though you posted in the Speed Triple forum when you say ST1050 I, like many on here, would presume you mean a Sprint ST. Perhaps you did.
S3 has been the Speed Triple abbr. for as long as I can remember, ST3 used for Street Triple.
Would be worthwhile if you clarified which model we're talking about so we can better help you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ah... yeah it's been a few years and several forums - I'll change things up to abbreviate the correct model. I'm referring to a Speed Triple 1050.
 

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2. It'll idle fine until you tweak the throttle, and it stalls out. Clutch in, it stalls out. If I wait a few minutes with the bike on, waiting for the idle to increase to about 1200rpm, and all seems well. No stalling. Off I go until...

3. I'm riding around town and the engine randomly chugs, cuts, and surges then smooths out again. Disconcerting at highway speeds. I slow down to cut through a right turn and it's chugging horribly through the turn. Equally disconcerting. I decide I'm gonna go top off the gas tank and...


I had the same issues you describe with my 1050, turns out it was the sidestand switch. I bridged the wires at the sidestand switch connector, and all issues dissapeared. Been riding it daily for the last couple of weeks to be sure and no more issues encountered, so just waiting for my new switch to arrive.
Good luck with the bike.
 

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2. It'll idle fine until you tweak the throttle, and it stalls out. Clutch in, it stalls out. If I wait a few minutes with the bike on, waiting for the idle to increase to about 1200rpm, and all seems well. No stalling. Off I go until...
The idle is supposed to decrease when getting hot. Not the other way a round. So I would follow Terry's advice and plug TuneECU to double check the temp sensor values. Have a look to the TuneECU page to check whether it's usable on your bike.
Regarding your injectors, You may unplug them from the throttle body and turn the key on for the pump to apply the 3 bars pressure. You'll then be able to check whether they are leaking or not.
Another point is to double check what map you have. You may want to save it and load the standard TOR map.
It seems the page presenting the maps on the TuneECU site changed recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update... and solution!

Been a little hectic, what with the COVID-19 thing. I hate leaving a post 'hanging' with no resolution, especially since y'all took the time to write a few excellent suggestions, so here's an update and, thankfully, a solution.

I finally got a chance to gather up tools, the bike, some friends, a few beers, and enough time to crank away at it. Wrote down all the suggestions from this forum plus a few additional ones we researched, and went through and tested some hardware. Here are my findings thus far:

The stepper motor/Idle adjustment motor seems to check out. It operates silently and seems to have all the proper resistances. That being said, I think it needs adjustment somehow because it will not idle until the motor warms up...? This and the TPS are tied into each other so that needed a look-see. TuneECU can help me address this and I was waiting on a buddy to show up with the cable, so while I was in there I went ahead and continued testing things.

We did a voltage test on the battery, while the bike was running. Got 12.8-13.2v while its running. I've read that it should sit at 14v once its running...? So there might be an issue related to the regulator/rectifier or (ugh) the stator? Naturally, we tested the regulator/rectifier and it showed .2v. That is, apparently, low (per what we've read.) I'm still doing some research on it to try and figure out whether that's within spec, but for now we're considering replacing the r/r and hopefully that'll 'fix' the voltage to the battery before the stator takes a big ol' dump. So that was a thing.

Buddy with cable arrived and we fired up TuneECU, reset all adaptations, and adjusted the TPS and idle adjustment motor/stepper motor to spec (they were way way way way way way way way out of spec), fixed a small vacuum leak in Cylinder 3 from the throttle bodies not being fully seated, fired it up and... damn. Runs great now. Like, insanely better. Went from 19mpg to 40mpg on the mileage (verified at the pump - ***) and there's no more surging and stalling. It's like a whole new bike, just from those adjustments. She pops like crazy on decel, but apparently that's fairly normal.

Checked the voltages and resistance again on the battery and r/r and of course they still seem low. It'll be something to keep an eye on, and I think we're just going to go ahead and preemptively replace the r/r and see if that'll affect the voltage at the battery.

So there it is! Seems to be all good now. Hopefully this post/series will help another person who searches and has similar symptoms. Thank you all for your help and please stay safe out there. :D
 

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Time to check the stators voltage (3 phases) and the stator to RR connector. It's never comfortable to get stuck far from home.
You should get 25V ac at idle between 1-2 2-3 and 1-3 coils. And an infinite resistance between each wire and the ground RR disconnected (engine off).
 
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