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Discussion Starter #1
My Tiger has been a little sluggish starting of late - exactly the same thing happened a couple of years ago and I was persuaded I needed a new battery, which I duly bought. Both batteries take and hold a good charge, staying at 12.6 - 12.7 volts indefinitely, however when I had them tested at my local tyre / battery place with a drop tester both showed up "Weak". It has been suggested to me that this test is too harsh for bike batteries but I'd rather shell out for (another) new one than risk it dying in la France Profonde, probably on a Sunday.

I've done the regulator wiring mod and get a steady 14.5 volts on charge. ISTR reading somewhere that new batteries should be well charged off the bike before fitting, and I don't remember doing that with mine so perhaps that's the problem.

Any views?
 

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Apart from midsummer,i've always keeped mine on an Optimate,i changed my battery earlier this year for the very reasons you mentioned,it was 7 years old(original) and is still going strong starting other bikes at a shop!!!,i've never charged a battery before putting one on a bike,having said all that i've 3 bikes in the garage at the mo and all on tenders and since i've been doing so, have had fanatastic life out of all my batteries,before the invention of the tender as opposed to a charger,i'd loose at least 1 battery every winter,you can't beat progress e'h.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have an Accucharge which is similar to an Accumate but TBH neither battery ever seems to need much from it.

I think I'll just bite the bullet & go for a new one - this has attracted my attention, as it has a much higher CCA than the standard Yuasa.
 

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Sounds strange to me if you use a battery tender regulary.

The battery on my 5 year old , 32,500 mile SV1000 is origional still.

Do you have an alarm on the bike, these thing suck the juice quite quickly and can damage a battery especially in this cold weather.

Pete
 

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It does sound strange, are you saying that it's always sluggish to start? Or just when it's cold or hot?

Not that it's happened on a Triumph, but on my Harley I had a corroded negative lead connection to the frame, which, when trying to start cold gave a sluggish reaction. When the bike was warm, no problems. It took me an age to figure it out, because it was difficult to see. Then, once I'd done that I found the positive end on the solenoid was also corroded and causing some of the sluggishness. I too checked out at 14 odd volts above idle, but when cranking it went way low. It was only when I put in a brand new battery, that I discovered there was something else wrong because the new battery made no difference.

Just a thought,

Mick :cool:
 

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My Tiger has been a little sluggish starting of late - exactly the same thing happened a couple of years ago and I was persuaded I needed a new battery, which I duly bought. Both batteries take and hold a good charge, staying at 12.6 - 12.7 volts indefinitely, however when I had them tested at my local tyre / battery place with a drop tester both showed up "Weak". It has been suggested to me that this test is too harsh for bike batteries but I'd rather shell out for (another) new one than risk it dying in la France Profonde, probably on a Sunday.

I've done the regulator wiring mod and get a steady 14.5 volts on charge. ISTR reading somewhere that new batteries should be well charged off the bike before fitting, and I don't remember doing that with mine so perhaps that's the problem.

Any views?
A load test effectively drain the battery over time through a resitance to measure its capacity (Amp-Hours) but the max current different sized batteries produce varies so if done properly the load is adjusted proportionally to the batt's cold cranking amp rating to avoid damaging it.

A battery can still indicate a full charge (~12.6V) while having reduced capacity (Amp-Hour) and current delivering capacity (Amps) as its cells deteriorate, and it only takes one bad cell since they are in series.

If it is cranking over noticiable slower (receiving less current) than it used to then I would say the batt is in its golden years.

Now I replace mine after 2 years rather than try to squeeze the last bit of life out of them like I used to and getting left dead from even just an an air temperature drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Now I replace mine after 2 years rather than try to squeeze the last bit of life out of them like I used to and getting left dead from even just an an air temperature drop.
That's my thinking at the moment. Interestingly, I've downloaded a technical manual from the Yuasa website which states that the MF type battery (as I have) should read 13V fully charged and that 12.7, which I have always taken to be full charge is in fact 75% for these batteries. I've never seen this before but coming from the manufacturer should be correct.
 

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Another opinion?

I just had my '05 dealer serviced (12K service-actual miles 15.6K). I always keep a Battery Tender connected to the battery (on the bike) when the weather gets cold. I always thought the digital clock was discharging my battery, but my mechanic says the Triumphs are slow starting in the cold because of the Mobil 4T 15W50 synthetic oil. Once the oil heats up, it should be easier to restart. Does everyone here use synthetic oil?

Gerry
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use part-synthetic Silkolene as I don't thrash around at 10K revs. My understanding is that fully synthetic shouldn't get thicker as fast as semi when the temperature drops. I have seen some graphs somewhere but can'y remember where, but ISTR that the pour point for Silkolene full synthetic was around -40C.
 

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A 1 volt drop from fully charged and your bike proable will not start.
I use a Battery Tender to charge my battery and my Volt meter reads 13 .2 when its fully charged. I read the only way to check a battery is under load. I think most places that sell batteries should be able to perform the test.
 

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Conductance testing is a much more prefered method of battery testing. It imposes no harsh loads on the battery during testing, does not require the battery to be fully charged for accuracy, and speaking of accuracy, it is very accurate. Also most of the conductance testers out there are able to sense battery temp thru the test leads and correct test readings for battery temperature. I have used the Midtronics testers for years in my business and currently have the MDX-600 tester. My local Triumph dealer says their factory issue battery tester is a Midtronics very similar to the MDX-600. If you want a accurate accessment of your battery condition, I would recommend finding either a automotive or Triumph shop that has one of the Midtronics testers and have them test your battery.
 

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I have a '53 plate tiger and the original batt was giving up regular - i changed it and all was fine, then again i was left stranded. Had the Battery checked and teh new one was faulty... another new battery later and all is great, however i do have an alarm so if i didnt go out and tick her over for 30 minutes or so every 2 weeks max she would struggle to start...

Along comes christmas and a very good prezzie from my mother.. Optimiser trickler charger.. plug teh bike in and leave her.. battery fresh every time now..!!! get yourself one! worth the money.
 

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voltage mod on triumph tiger

Hi I notice on your thread that you have done a voltage mod mod what is this as my tiger keeps flattening its battery and does not have enough power to run heated grips on tick over.
Thx
Craig
 

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Hi I notice on your thread that you have done a voltage mod mod what is this as my tiger keeps flattening its battery and does not have enough power to run heated grips on tick over.
Thx
Craig
Hi shelley5281, the voltage mod can be found here...........

http://www.triumphrat.net/modificat.../68040-weak-charging-system-the-solution.html

and

http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3843

if yer bike has an alarm or has the wrong headlight relays fitted or both, this will cause the battery to go flat. i take it the battery has been checked and its not faulty !! also check all the battery and earth connections to make sure they`re clean and tight.

KK
 
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