[imajeep]

just picked up a 04 day.955i for a song....

in showroom cond, with carbon fiber hi rise.
Im looking for a little more in the midrange, im a v-twin junkie.

Ive seen this same bike walk all over me on my duc. moster 1000, but now that i own it, im not as impressed as i could be.

What tuning system do i want? Tuneboy, PC, etc?

and what is all this hype about MM3 being the best midrange tune?
what system is that run off of? and where do i aquire such a beast

Other issue is the front end feels heavy.... or rear light, whichever.
not that i want to wheelie, but im concerned that the rear could break out on me at anytime.
thoughts?

 

[DEcosse]

http://www.triumphrat.net/ecm-and-fi-tuning-help-tips-and-tricks/ for everything you want to know about re-mapping.
The MM's will indeed give you much more mid-range grunt, although some don't like the fuel economy (or lack thereof)

You probably want to get your suspension properly set up for your weight.
Check the tires, especially the front, make sure no cupping.

 

[stevetwood]

You can remap it with TuneECU - get a VW car cable to connect to the ECU from eBay, download TuneECU (it is free software but do make a donation of a few $$ as you'll use it regularly) and search the site for the MM3 map.

I have tried the MM3 tune on my 06 Daytona 955i (K&N air filter and ToR exhaust fitted) and I have to say that it gives more mid-range but I felt that it was at the expense of the power output around 10K rpm at the top end. Like all these things, it is your own senses that count. I love to wring the neck of my engine and enjoy that massive surge at 8K revs and above, so I reverted back to the map that was stock for my ToR exhaust.

The Daytona cam profiles are different to the Speed Triple cams where they were developed to give that mid-range grunt. Go try a Speed Triple if you want to see the difference, if you like it, trade it in for one. My buddy has a new 1050 S3 and leaves me for dead coming out of the corners with soft Metzler tyres on it.

I would take D'Ecosse's advice, and first get your suspension checked front and back, check your tires and pressures 36 psi front and 40 psi rear (are they the same brand of tire front and rear?) and check that no-one has altered the spring height on the rear shock (my son has raised the rear of my bike 10mm and lowered the front handlebars by 5mm to make it turn in better) I've had two Daytona bikes and never felt as though they were about to flick me off in the middle of turns.

It isn't a V-twin I'm afraid, its got loads of go, but for me, the go is mostly enjoyed at the top end of the rev range where you hang on for dear life, pulling yourself forward scraping your guts on the tank as your eyes blur and your ears are deafened by the cacophony of gorgeous induction sounds from the airbox.

If it is your first Daytona, then satisfy yourself that the front brakes can cope with the deceleration you're going to need. If not, my top tip is swap the pads for sintered Brembo or EBC pads HH spec and get a 5/8" front master brake cylinder upgrade too.

So once your tires and suspension and pads are checked out, then you can really start to hammer it hard, every time.

Enjoy

 

[imajeep]

Dont get me wrong here, im more than impressed with the bike.... i was just wishing for a bit more in the mid range... Honestly i hate to lose what its got up top though... and the sound, oh lord, the sound.. i lose real-estate in my pants thinking about coming out of corners at 8k and just standing on the throttle. I am having an issue with cupping in the front tire, but barely enough to notice the brake throb. both are Pilots, and now that i think of it, i have been having some issues with cornering. It appears to have a funny weave and bob when im burried in a corner.... like it would rather i wasnt on its back..Must be a suspension issue.
I really dont feel comfortable with the local dealerships due to their lack of track experience. Is there a reliable website to research suspension tuning for this rig.

not to brag or anything, but im sure its faster than yours btw... the yellow ones always are

 

[DEcosse]

.... I have to say that it gives more mid-range but I felt that it was at the expense of the power output around 10K rpm at the top end. Like all these things, it is your own senses that count....

That implies it is what you perceived, rather than actually dynoed

... Honestly i hate to lose what its got up top though... ...

You won't lose anything at the top and should even be significant gain.

The MM's feel stronger in the middle and so you get less of an abrupt change as it transitions to the upper range - this might feel there is less 'kick' but it is simply because the curve is more linear.

 

[stevetwood]

That implies it is what you perceived, rather than actually dynoed

Pure perception on my part, and I don't disagree with the worse fuel economy on the MM3 either.


You won't lose anything at the top and should even be significant gain.



The MM's feel stronger in the middle and so you get less of an abrupt change as it transitions to the upper range - this might feel there is less 'kick' but it is simply because the curve is more linear.

I didn't perceive a gain at the top end, but then again I had nothing to measure it with either. As you said, if it smoothed out the progress to top end, then I was probably waiting for a big transition as before.

 

[stevetwood]

Here's a you tube video on the practical use of TuneECU to change the map and check the functionality of the bike