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She's new to me so this is my base I have to work with.
2000 daytona 955i
K&N panel filter
Pro race Slash cut (no baffle)
Custom map (made with tune ecu)



Planned...
I want the frame and swing arm polished
And I'm trying to decide on a wheel colour or whether to redo them silver (odd scab hear and there)
 

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Well, you asked for pics and a list of upgrades, here they are.
My 02 Centennial model.

It is mostly standard apart from a high level exhaust.

I thought a useful upgrade mingt be to put swap the snapped crank for one that hadn't. :smile2:
So, currently, after much Plastigauging, the bottom end is back together, apart from torquing up the clutch and end of the balance shaft.
Now waiting for 2 new exhaust valves to come, so I can get the top end sorted.

Then need time to get the second hand engine out, which turned out to have a duff gearbox and refit the original engine.
Can't wait to get her back on the road again.
 

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2002 Daytona DSSA

Here´s my Daytona. I bought her last year as a plain silver DSSA and with approx. 24k mls on the ODO. As the stock tail section looks awkward a S3 05-07 tail was fitted, the Arrows Low Boy exhaust of a 2012 adapted and parts airbrushed in Candy Blood Red over the metallic Silver.
As there is no room for the stock battery she now starts from an RC LiFePo-battery at 13,2V and the cooling overrun was replaced by an aluminum bike-bottle.

Unfortunately she´s not free from electrical gremlins, but I think you know what I´m talking about ...
 

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Here´s my Daytona. I bought her last year as a plain silver DSSA and with approx. 24k mls on the ODO. As the stock tail section looks awkward a S3 05-07 tail was fitted, the Arrows Low Boy exhaust of a 2012 adapted and parts airbrushed in Candy Blood Red over the metallic Silver.
As there is no room for the stock battery she now starts from an RC LiFePo-battery at 13,2V and the cooling overrun was replaced by an aluminum bike-bottle.

Unfortunately she´s not free from electrical gremlins, but I think you know what I´m talking about ...
Nice bike!

I have a 97-98 daytona whitch has been stripped for all fairings by a previous owner. I think the tail section looks nice! Will the S3 05-07 tail fit a standard Daytone 97/98 subrame?

-ohmen
 

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Will the S3 05-07 tail fit a standard Daytone 97/98 subframe?
You can probably "make it fit" anyhow (new attachements for tank, seat and so on). If you succeed this would probably save you some hassle. The subframes up to 2010 all fit the main frame without problems, but the devil is in the detail:

* Daytonas up to 2006 and S3 up to 2004 have a tank where the fuel pump is hanging from the rear - S3 2005 and onwards have an even tank-underside with the fuel pump assembly sticking up into the tank.
* The "old" tank and the "newer" subframe match for space: You have to severly cut the cross member and the inner mudguard/tray to make room for the fuel pump. Room you then don´t have for a regular battery or for reusing the cooling overflow. In addition, I had to lengthen the air-hose going into the ECU and the need to put all cable around the fuel pump area instead of simply straightening them under the tank makes some of the wires very short and match the fuel fittings for space. The ECU will very likely float freely in your undertray, while the relays and the fuse box can be relocated.
!!! I never tried, but in case the electric connectors of old bikes and newer tanks would match, adding a newer tank would save you quite some hassle. What I know is the fact that the bikes use very different fuel pump assemblies!!!
* If you use the newer subframe (in my case I chose the 2005-07 model, as it has the shortest rear section) you CAN reuse the passenger pegs, but need longer bolts and self-securing nuts, as the subframe is NOT threaded.
* There is a small gap between the foremost part of the seat and the rear of the tank. Nothing a saddler couldn´t cure, but it´s there.
* Sourcing parts the rear subframe and the plastic tray are easiest to find. NJ seats from model years 2005-07 are kind of "unobtainium", but don´t get tempted to use one of the frequently available 2008-2010 seats - they don´t fit! As for seat fairings: Used original parts sell for ridiculous money, so I got me some fibreglass parts new for less - they had to be painted anyhow.
* Daytonas got the regulator between subframe and rear fairing. In case of S3 rear fairings there is no room. I solved this problem by simply bolting the regulator to the underside of the plastic tray.This way it is more or less protected from the rain, but sits in a certain amount of airflow. In hindsight I should have swapped in a Compufire 5502 while everything was apart.

If I can help you further - just ask!:beerchug:
 

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Looks awesome El Capitan, nice job.
You should have seen her with the short rear and the stock exhaust! The superlong muffler looked like a wheely-bar.

To be honest I was surprised to realize how much the more compact rear section "modernized" the looks.
 

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Bought a UK 2003 Daytona 955i August 2019. The bike has done very few miles each year so little wear on the motor (13000) but a lot of static crud accumulated underneath. Spiders and damp shed dust, lots of alloy corrosion on the cases, rusty brackets etc. After three goes with the natty pink bike cleaning fluid, rear bodywork and fairing lowers removed, much more like it. Battery not charging when I bought it, only 12.6v across the battery terminals with the engine running regardless of revs. Mods so far, MOSFET regulator rectifier with extra heat sink material, direct fused bridge between reg rec brown output wires and battery, black front mudguard with extender, TOR carbon silencer plus factory TOR no SAI map. Rentec rack.

I'm very happy.
 

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As one can see in your pictures: It pays off having a dry garage!
On the other hand you would have payed assumingly a lot more for this barn find. And when they run, they run smoothly! Have a lot of fun with your bike:ride
 

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Bought a UK 2003 Daytona 955i August 2019. The bike has done very few miles each year so little wear on the motor (13000) but a lot of static crud accumulated underneath. Spiders and damp shed dust, lots of alloy corrosion on the cases, rusty brackets etc. After three goes with the natty pink bike cleaning fluid, rear bodywork and fairing lowers removed, much more like it. Battery not charging when I bought it, only 12.6v across the battery terminals with the engine running regardless of revs. Mods so far, MOSFET regulator rectifier with extra heat sink material, direct fused bridge between reg rec brown output wires and battery, black front mudguard with extender, TOR carbon silencer plus factory TOR no SAI map. Rentec rack.

I'm very happy.

LET,

Soak that thing down with AC-50 (everything but the tires & brakes) let it sit, then wipe the excess off. It will work great on that engine corrosion.
 

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You can probably "make it fit" anyhow (new attachements for tank, seat and so on). If you succeed this would probably save you some hassle. The subframes up to 2010 all fit the main frame without problems, but the devil is in the detail:

* Daytonas up to 2006 and S3 up to 2004 have a tank where the fuel pump is hanging from the rear - S3 2005 and onwards have an even tank-underside with the fuel pump assembly sticking up into the tank.
* The "old" tank and the "newer" subframe match for space: You have to severly cut the cross member and the inner mudguard/tray to make room for the fuel pump. Room you then don´t have for a regular battery or for reusing the cooling overflow. In addition, I had to lengthen the air-hose going into the ECU and the need to put all cable around the fuel pump area instead of simply straightening them under the tank makes some of the wires very short and match the fuel fittings for space. The ECU will very likely float freely in your undertray, while the relays and the fuse box can be relocated.
!!! I never tried, but in case the electric connectors of old bikes and newer tanks would match, adding a newer tank would save you quite some hassle. What I know is the fact that the bikes use very different fuel pump assemblies!!!
* If you use the newer subframe (in my case I chose the 2005-07 model, as it has the shortest rear section) you CAN reuse the passenger pegs, but need longer bolts and self-securing nuts, as the subframe is NOT threaded.
* There is a small gap between the foremost part of the seat and the rear of the tank. Nothing a saddler couldn´t cure, but it´s there.
* Sourcing parts the rear subframe and the plastic tray are easiest to find. NJ seats from model years 2005-07 are kind of "unobtainium", but don´t get tempted to use one of the frequently available 2008-2010 seats - they don´t fit! As for seat fairings: Used original parts sell for ridiculous money, so I got me some fibreglass parts new for less - they had to be painted anyhow.
* Daytonas got the regulator between subframe and rear fairing. In case of S3 rear fairings there is no room. I solved this problem by simply bolting the regulator to the underside of the plastic tray.This way it is more or less protected from the rain, but sits in a certain amount of airflow. In hindsight I should have swapped in a Compufire 5502 while everything was apart.

If I can help you further - just ask!:beerchug:
Wow - Thank you very much!

I need to consider what to do during winter. I consider three options:

1) Get hold of fairings and make it original / racer.
2) Get hold of retro fairings and build a modern classic.
3) Build a streetfighter. A part of this will be fitting a shorter back section. And your description is very useful :)

- Ohmen
 

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Wow - Thank you very much!

I need to consider what to do during winter. I consider three options:

1) Get hold of fairings and make it original / racer.
2) Get hold of retro fairings and build a modern classic.
3) Build a streetfighter. A part of this will be fitting a shorter back section. And your description is very useful :)

- Ohmen


Or better still, just ride it. :)
 
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