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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I am new to this group having just purchased a new 08 Sprint ST 1 month ago. I am having some shifting troubles with the bike and was hoping someone may have some ideas before I head back to the dealer. PS - I have done a search of the forum already.

Ever since the bike was new the gearbox has often clunked into first gear when shifting from neutral. I also sometimes experience faulse up shifts if I don't pre-load the shifter for up shifts from third and higher. More recently the gearbox has become difficult to downshift from any gear and requires more force than I think is normal. The last thing I have noticed recently is that I hear some noise from inside the clutch cover when I pull the clutch in.

The bike now has 600km on it and I have tried adjusting the clutch cable but have not seen any improvment. Any ideas before I head to the dealer?
 

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Since you have done some research on the subject, I probably can not tell you anything you have not read previously. But, just in case. :D

First off, the bike is new, with some sort of break in oil. The Sprint g'box is not the smoothest you will come across when new, but they do get smoother after about 4/5k miles. You can expect a noticeable improvement after the first oil change.

Every bike I have ever ridden has the first gear clunk due to the design of the engagement dogs. Some do it worse than others, but the Sprint is not the worse example.

The false upshifts are usually related to technique or choice of footware. It sounds as though you are experienced so maybe this is indeed something that you need to mention to your dealer. But, the fact that the upshifts are better with preloading makes me think that it might not be mechanical.

The excessive downshift force just makes me think that this also is related to the newness of the bike and the type of oil in it presently.

The noise you hear with the clutch pulled in is the pull rod and bearing. Usually those do not start being evident until the miles are accumulated. I do not see it as a problem unless it is more than "some noise". I suspect most Sprints do it and the owners have not noticed it. But, it would not hurt to also mention that to the dealer so that there is a record.

On a side note, the clutch pressure plate has five equaly spaced mount holes. During manufacturing, there are acceptable tolerances for each part. Sometimes (rarely) an accumulation of tolerances from several parts can occur. What this means is that any two parts that attach to each other in more than one orientation has one ideal position. The plate can be installed in one of five positions to provide the best alignment for the pull rod and bearing.
 

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OnD did a good job of covering the bases so I'll only expand on one point. Clunking into first will be worse if the clutch disks are dragging a bit, which inhibits the ability of the the gears to quickly slow down before gear engagement. This can be verified with a simple test: Pull in the clutch and waiting a longer time (say 30 seconds) before plunking it into 1st. If after the long wait, the clunk is less or goes away, the clutch might not be disengaging (spinning down) as fast as we would like. Somebody else on here (Dave?) has mentioned a preference for Motul oil because it aids shifting. Perhaps Motul has certain characteristics that allow the clutch plates not to drag as much as with other oils, especially the break-in oil. The Sprinty is a decent-shifting bike - not the best in the world, but also far from the worse.

Good luck with your new Sprint and welcome to the club. Let us know what you learn on the shifting woes.
 

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Yep, differences in the oilly stuff can cause problems.

I have not had the pleasure of riding a 675 but wonder how much of a clunk into first factor it displays since the clutch is not sitting in oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Guys,

Thanks for your feedback. It sounds like I may be over reacting. I wonder if changing the oil may help? What is break-in oil that I keep finding in my searches? Does Triumph use a special oil when the engin is fresh? I have not herd of this before, someone please expand. Is this different than motorcycle dino blend? I have always used dino for the first 1500km then made the switch to synthetic. Searching around it seems some people may be waiting longer.
 

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Triumph wants the break-in oil drained at an initial 500mi. service.
Full synthetic oil will be the replacement oil at this time.
 

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My wife and I bought two 2008's last year, my clutch was fine, but she was constantly complaining about the rough shifting. After complaining several times to the dealer about it, they finally believed her and stopped thinking she was just shifting badly. They replaced the clutch and reported about 300 or so of the 2008's had the same problems and that it was something to do with a new type of oil they were using in the clutch.
 

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Welcome mat out

Welcome to the Sprint forum Shecky:)

Don and I ask all noobs to please read our forum stickies:)

You do not have to change to full synthetic after the break in period.

I have thrashed my 2004 955 Sprint for 62,000kms and it runs like a top, many sports riding kms two up.

I run Motul Semi synthetic in it and always have changing out evry 5,000kms.

OND got it all nailed I think.

Cheers
DaveM:cool:
 

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The break in oil is just regular dino oil. In the days of yore we used to use a straight non-detergent oil but with today's machining and materials that isn't necessary.
One doesn't have to get too antsy to put in synthetic oil.
When I bought my bike we change the oil at 500 miles and put the suggested break in oil in again changing that again at 1500 miles total. Changed again at 3,000 miles and at that time SilkOLene , a full synthetic of the PROPER specification, was put in. Filter was of course change at these times. The oil and filter get changed every 3K and I've had no engine/tranny/shifting or other oil related issues at all.

Oh boy, and oil thread!
 
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