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Discussion Starter #1
I was sitting at a light with 'er idling for about 5 minutes this afternoon. When it was time to go the engine would rev, but she barely moved. I could run through the gears, and when prodding along I could give 'er gas. It would rev like normal but the speed would hardly be affected. I was only able to top out around 40 mph as a result. It didn't feel safe, or even like it would keep going much longer.

I thought maybe the air filter got flooded, but it seemed fine. BTW, is that big air box behind the left "adventurer" shield merely for some California emissions thing? It was empty.

It is still doing it, but less.
 

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sounds like the clutch is burned out,or the plates are jammed,cant think of why it do this all of a sudden mind unless the oil was very low and burned it out while sitting at lights,another long shot is the a brake siezed ,so check and make sure they is free thats as far as my thoughts go just now
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it did seem like there was too much heat coming off the bike as I rode. There was no funny smell though that I would expect from the brakes. Also, I sad in neutral as I let it idle. I have also had clutch issues in the past, but had sprocket things changed and didn't seem to have problems with clutch slipping as I changed gears.
 

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:( It can only be two things. A badly slipping clutch (likely) or uncontrolable wheel spin (unlikely). What type of oil are you using? Many car oils contain friction inhibitors which can, in bikes which have a wet clutch, cause the clutch to slip. You'll have to pull the clutch and give the plates a good de-greasing, and measure the plate thickness and check against factory spec. Re-assmble and fill with the correct oil. I've also heard of products such as Slick 50 causing similar problems. Then again, your clutch could simply be worn out due to high mileage or constant abuse (due to a previous owner, of course!).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
not what I wanna hear. Dunno on the oil, but all was done right before I picked it up and there are only about 1500 miles since then.
 

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was done right before I picked it up and there are only about 1500 miles since then.
That is about long enough to stuff the clutch if regular automotive oil has been used.

As Kem has suggested, change the oil with cheapest motorcycle specific oil that you can get (don't forget the filter).

Get enough oil and filters to do a couple of changes as you probably have a lot of burnt clutch material floating around in the motor.

If this does not work, then you need to follow M.G.Vigs advice.
 

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That is about long enough to stuff the clutch if regular automotive oil has been used.

As Kem has suggested, change the oil with cheapest motorcycle specific oil that you can get (don't forget the filter).

Get enough oil and filters to do a couple of changes as you probably have a lot of burnt clutch material floating around in the motor.

If this does not work, then you need to follow M.G.Vigs advice.
What Bob said.

Kem
 

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Yes. The engine oil also lubricates the primary gears, clutch, and transmission gears. It's an all-in-one system like most sport bikes (unlike Harley-Davidsons). Hopefully, changing the oil will help the clutch situation. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.

Noel
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, I'll giver it a go. When you say cheap oil should I get just regular out of the ground 10W/40, or should I at least get semi-synthetic?

I guess I'm off to NAPA (filter n oil) and my Honda car dealer (crush washers) for parts to change my oil.
 

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Also don't rule out a problem with the clutch slave cylinder.
It may be so full of crud and some corrosion that it's not releasing fully.
Actually the slave will PROBABLY try to push itself out when you loosen the three mounting bolts holding it to the side of the engine if it is not retracting fully.
This would be due to the clutch springs pushing back on the clutch pushrod.
I said "PROBABLY" because the slave is a somewhat tight fit in the bore it resides in.
It won't cost anything but a bottle of DOT4 and some time to clean the cylinder and flush the system.
 

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i agree with kd5qoq i would be checking that slave cylinder just to make sure b4 going to the expense of a few oil changes,and having the same prob,this could also cause the clutch to fail,so please check this also its a fairley simple job,in removing ,and bleeding is much the same as the brakes good luck
 

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When you say cheap oil should I get just regular out of the ground 10W/40,
change the oil with cheapest motorcycle specific oil that you can get
Do not use 'Energy Conserving' automotive oil.

Any cheap oil will do but it must be for motorcycles with a wet clutch.

Once you have flushed all the old [email protected] out of the motor with a couple of oil changes, THEN you should be using a good full synth oil (Mobil 1 Racing 4T)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ugh, I'm an idiot!! Just spent a couple hours and gained a few dozen mosquito bites taking apart and cleaning the master cylinder. Oh well, at least I got to learn how to do that. Anyhoo, the issue seems to have corrected itself. I am done messing with the clutch for now, that thing's a pain even though it isn't hard to get to. I'll do the oil tomorrow.
 

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:) Issues don't "correct themselves". You've fixed it. Well done! I must admit, when I answered your first post, I didn't consider a fault with the master cylinder. It's an easier job than a full clutch strip!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Vig, it wasn't too bad, just the circle clip gave me a bit of a bother as it was deeper than my clip pliers. I did notice when I had taken it out that the piston wasn't coming out on its own, this was noticeable after trying to get it out for a while the spring finally popped it out for me. After I re-assembled it I had a hard time keeping it in. I must have been stuck partially which allowed for enough pressure to change gears, but not enough to release the clutch all the way. Good thing I didn't burn it up.

The oil is draining now and I'm about to plug back up and re-fill, but I have a little issue that I may overlook. The new crush washers that I have are different. They are 14 inside, but not 24 outside, they are a bit narrower. The ones I have are identical to each other, one from the Honda car dealer and the other from my local Triumph dealer. Triumph didn't have the "actual" part # in stock because if they didn't sell the bike they aren't prepared to work on it. The one they sold me (yup, they didn't even give it to me, he actually bothered to spend the time typing all of my info for an .80 washer.) They can order it, but who wants to wait on a crush washer? Anyway, I think it will be ok, but anyone else seen problems with these new narrower ones?
 

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:) I try to use a new washer at every oil change, but I have been known to re-use old ones (shock horror) with no leaks. A new washer, even if it is narrower, should do the trick.
 
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