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Discussion Starter #1
Stupid question of the week...
How much noise is normal? Every time I ride my 68 I hear a different noise sometimes too end sometimes sounds like primary chain, next time is that clutch noise? Am I nuts and that’s normal on a 50 something year old bike? Or is it really going to blow up in my lap... kinda joking, I hope. How does everyone else’s sound besides the beautiful pipes, I have nothing to compare it to this is my first Old Triumph.

Steven
 

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How much is normal? Oh about that much.,..

Many many years ago I asked my Dealer about all the clatter coming from the top end of my bike. He said worry if it doesn't make noise. Like you said to me in another thread "let it go Francis"

K
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks K,
So if it ain’t broke don’t fix it ?
If it ain’t leaking it’s empty?
^ I own old Land Rovers too

Steven
 

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Thanks K,
So if it ain’t broke don’t fix it ?
If it ain’t leaking it’s empty?
^ I own old Land Rovers too

Steven
Reckon you could say that..

Also if you get into Amish country while on your scooter keep a bit closer to the center line. Can get a bit greasy towards the outside of the lane.

K
 

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Discussion Starter #5
But I do have a noise I know isn’t right. It doesn’t happen all the time. When the motor gets hot, pull up to a stop sign... theres is a metal on metal sound, very hollow sound, left side is where it sounds like it’s coming from. Possibly primary but leaning toward crank case. Clutch in or clutch out doesn’t matter same sound. Pull up to next stop sign no noise. Sound cycles with rpms. Almost sounds like a baffle loose inside the pipe (but it’s not). Also I get some smoke sometimes from the left side pipe after initial start up in the morning if it idles on the side stand for an extended period. Also when riding in the city at it gets very hot. Ideas ?

Steven.

Kadutz Amish are 150 miles east of me or west into Ohio and I don’t take the bike to either of those areas. But I’m pickin up what ur layin down... lol
 

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If this is covered under warranty I would have them look at the bike.

Thoughts? Trying to fix a Scooter over the phone without hearing the noises, talking to the patient, or laying on the hands is a bummer.

Drive side possible noise causes are rotor against stator or pointer in cover. Primary chain against adjuster or cases. Bad bearings at the clutch basket allowing it to scrape against the cases. Could be there isn't any problem. Problems/noises don't go a wandering round the motor.

Additional thoughts are: You DON'T let the machine idle while on the side stand. The oil will puddle inside the rocker box lowside. Then your bike may act like a Destroyer laying down a smoke screen out the driveside pipe. Any idle should be done on a center stand or with the Rider seated holding the bike up as at a traffic light.
It is summer time and it has been a HOT Summer. One DOES NOT let a preHinckley Triumph (or any air cooled bike(do as you wish with a Hinckley)) idle for extended periods of time when on a side stand, center stand, or whenever. If you are adjusting things with the bike in an upright position running you need to have an operating fan in front blowing cooling air.

Yes I have noticed my Bikes motors getting a bit warm when sitting in traffic or going slowly in the City. Happened in Chicago, St.Louis, Nashville, Chattanooga, Charleston no matter where I went. Never been there but I reckon it happens in your Burgh. Don't sit in slow traffic hit the side streets. Your bike will run cooler at 25 mph on a side street (and you will make better time) than if you are sitting in a traffic jam not doing 55. Ideas? Go for a ride North. Always wanted to go to the Racers Restraunt in South Dayton New York. Just stay nearer to the center line cause it's on the Amish Trail. Figure it's about 180 mile each way for you. A nice day ride.

Additional thoughts and ideas since you asked. Yes ifin it ain't broke don't fix it. Just cause you think it's broke don't mean it is. An old Brit Bike is different from other bikes. Just because you know Euro/Jap/HD doesn't always cross over to the vintage bike. You have to adjust to the machines quirk's as it will not adjust to yours.

Leaks...A properly assembled and maintained Unit Triumph will have minimum leaks/seepage. Large amounts of either indicate repairs or maintenance is needed.

Old Land Rovers... I don't know what is Old you. A number of years ago I was in shop doing frame off restorations on a few mid-60's Land Rover. Beautiful machines the frames were as piece of art. They were built to survive the Serengeti. Remember watching them in Born Free (the movie) and I believe Hatari. The new ones? You mean the new ones that were having problems with axle bearings and bearing housing's. That remind me more of the Bentley convertible I was looking at the other day. Hard to imagine either on the Serengeti with a Lion climbing on.

Time to go nuff said. Have a good day and keep the rubber side down.

K
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Heading to work for a few days possibly Kadutz, I’ll read again, digest, and respond as soon as I can. All kidding aside thank you for your time spent dealing with my many stupid questions. And that goes to many other people on this site, I take in what you’re saying and appreciate the sharing of the knowledge, it’s not like that knowledge grows on trees anymore. Now if I could only find the OBD port on this thing I wouldn’t have to ask all these questions.

Steven
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok work delayed till tonight or in the am so.... Kadutz did a shakedown ride solo the new noise is the drive side pipe hit, where to be determined after a cool down. So I got that easy fix covered, pretty sure. The part figure #22 in the picture that strap between the pipes. What does that bolt too? Nothing shown and I did a quick search by part number and didn’t find a more complete diagram. Anyone have a clue?

Steven
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There must be some sort of 90 deg bracket not shown in picture. There’s no way to bolt it up unless old pipes had a tab welded onto them like up from by down tube. Do you or anyone else have one mounted ? I can see that it would def benefit from adding it for rigidly, mufflers definitely move around only being attached at the one point where the pillion pegs attach also. I did do a bit of adjusting around and seam to have clearance where the pipe was touching by the side stand on the frame rail. Haven’t test drove yet, low 90’s out now. I’ll wait till closer to sundown if I’m not called up before then

Steven
 

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exhaust rattle

I'd recommend getting a couple of chrome 1 1/2 muffler clamps and mount them to the L bracket if there's no tab on your headers. You want to take the stress off the screw-in exhaust spigots as they tend to wallow out the aluminum head. Oversize is available for that reason. This is a problem with push-ins too. I use anti seize on the bolts close to the head. My bluing goes about 4". On the L bracket, pipe/muffler joint, and the rear footpegs, I use blue loctite. Bend the L brackets so there is little tension when tightened or the tab may fracture. I have individual pipes and ones with crossover, push-in and push-over. They mostly stay tight but get checked often.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My front tabs are good and stay tight so far I was wanting to add the stock one that goes behind the motor at the muffler clamps Bob. Do you have any of those mounted? Guess I could make something and put it on that clamp to hold it.

Steven
 

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Steven for the underside bar #70-5676 there is no bracket on the pipes. It is attached as follows;
1 take clamp# 70-2271 an slide it over the end of the exhaust pipe in the center stand area. Repeat for the other pipe. Grasp the clamp and turn it so the open 'C' is facing inward.

2 take bolt 82-3430 insert it into the D washer 70- 3768 flat side up. Take the bolt/washer assembly and insert it into the clamp 70-2271 from the topside. Now take the other D washer and place it round side up onto the clamp and over the bolt.

3 Take the bracket 70-5676 and put one end over the bolt against the flat side of the D washer that is facing down.

4 Offer up the washer and lock nut. Do not fully tighten the nut yet.

5 Repeat the above steps for the other side.

6 Do final adjustments and snug everything down.

Also take a look at the 1970 650 parts book. The picture there is a bit better for location of part A vs part B

K
 

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Corvair

The 65 Corvair technology is very near the air cooled Triumph. External pushrod tubes with viton o-ring upgrade. The casting slag was awful. I opened up the fins with files, bits, and chisels and it ran fine on a 5000 mile trip around Lake Michigan, which is a fantastic motorcycle ride. Stay as close to Lake Michigan as possible including alleys. 65 Corvair was the 1st coke bottle profile car and had a Corvette rear end because of Nader. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow Kadutz thank you, I see just what you mean by your quite detailed description to say the least. Thanks again I owe you a beer.

Steven
 

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Colorado thanks for the comeback. I was guessing 67 due to the color. That belt moulding also threw me.
I had a 62 Monza 4speed my 2nd car. Learned how to shift w/o using a clutch in that car.

No comment on Nader other than he is in his mid eighties.


Steven

No problem just help the next guy down the road in 15 years. l used part numbers from the 68 Parts Book. However in this case the bolts you can use are 5/16 SAE x 1 1/2" with a 5/16 small hex SAE nut all grade 5. Reckon a standard nut will probably also work I would prefer a lock nut.

K
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And part #5676 arrived today and it doesn’t fit. Screw it these probably a reason people don’t use it. Holes are to far away from the end to get the bolt thru so bracket hits into pipe before it goes deep enough into the clamp if that makes sense. I loosened everything up did some adjusting and everything seems fine. Now on to the next noise.

Steven
 

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Hi Steven, The cross strap under bike to tie pipes together I feel is very important. It tends to reduce vibration & helps to keep mufflers from cracking as quickly where the inlet pipe is welded to the snake's belly part.

Basically the muffler clamp bolts will point straight down with the bolts on inside. Orient clamps that way. The clamps are tightened. The strap fitted & lock nut fitted to hold strap on. Use flat washers as needed. Often the original strap is too short, sometimes too long.

The cure is buy some flat weldable steel from Ace Hardware & make you own strap to fit. 1/8x3/4 tends to work well. After you drill holes elongate with rat tail file as needed. By time your done with it, takes a few hours, sometimes all day. Well worth the effort & I've observed it really does reduce muffler fractures.

If you have spin on filter, the strap will often hit filter. In this case you must cut & weld strap, or bend it to go around filter. Again it's needed. If you need to have it welded, cut & fit holding the 3 pieces together with a 10-24 screw & nut tightened well. Then take to welder & have them weld it. Be sure to check with center stand up/down. I have welder, but have done a few now.

90f where I live & you'd hardly ride in summer. These motors rattle very bad when heat soaked in warm weather. In city riding you have no choice but to wait at the lights. Stop/go freeway is the same. The heat off motor is staggering. Still they do fine. If the bike wants to die at idle when hot in traffic, which can be common, set idle rpm a little faster. Seriously I've ridden stop/go for hours at 100+f several times. Ridden all day on the open road at 110f several times. Coming to a stop sounds like the motor is falling apart but it doesn't.

When things go wrong the noise is so bad it scares you to ride it. Like the noise I have now. Parts are on their way. We'll see if it fixes it. Noise from primary. Rotor is perfect.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was planning on making my own now the original doesn’t fit. Why butcher a $20 part that I can return when I can buy $5 in steel. I’ve Been riding this summer in the 90’s so today was a nice break. The way I’m starting to look at it is they called this the desert sled, raced in the Utah desert. If it can’t handle ripping around in the country in the mornings or cruising around the city after sundown then it needs to blow up so I know what to fix so it can do it. I’m changing the oil every 1000 miles going over it to make sure more parts don’t fall off and riding the crap out of it. I’m up to 4500 miles in the 10 months I’ve owned it. Not bad for a city that sees the winters like we do. And no oil filter yet so a straight strap should work fine.

Steven
 
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