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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a set of black aluminum seat bolt eliminators with the knurled knob so you don't have to use a hex wrench to remove the seat. The one on the right side now refuses to seat properly or stay in place. Although it has yet to fall out, I feel this is just a matter of time. There are no obvious issues with the seat mounting holes and the bolt doesn't appear to be stripped. Anyone else encounter this? A minor problem I know but annoying after paying for the bolt eliminators. Is there some kind of washer underneath the seat that locks down the bolt that could have fallen out of place?
 

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Seems to me the thread--on the bolt or on the frame--must be bad somewhere. Does your original seat screw work in that hole?

Those bolts will work loose if they're put in "hand tight" and you'll eventually lose them. I have the steel extended bolts with Allen heads, and I put on a split-ring lockwasher, then a flat washer--to protect the plastic seat tab--and tighten them with a screwdriver.
 

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might need to rethread . Get a threading kit and see if you an put it through without having to go up a size . Sometimes you can rebend the threads back . I had to do it with my tank emblem holes .

When you put the seat bolts in put one in 1/2 way , get it threaded in but don't tighten and then the other . Some guys who don't know just tighten on then the other . THat way one side is bound to frig up since the seat post is spot there is plastic and will flex and make it difficult to put the other screw in which will eventually crossthread the turn into a shear pain in the balls. Hope that little lecture kinda helped.:D
 

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The first thing I'd do would be to swap the bolts you're using from side to side. See if the problem follows the bolt or the stays with that side. If it follows the bolt that's easy get another one, if it stays with that side you'll most likely need to rethread it whole.
 

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OR

instead of wasting all that time threading/rethreading who knows how many screws/taps into the same hole and wearing down perfectly good threads: use teflon tape on the threads to take up the extra space between the threads.

The bolts will stay in.

Wrap the bolt in teflon so the tape pulls tighter against the screw as you thread it in (because if it begins to back out, the tape will expand and increase it's grip).

Just like this:


However I would wrap the tape around 2-3 times because unlike the shower head in the video, your threads aren't tapered.

I did this with the underseat storage bolt for my Duc- works like a dream.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OR

instead of wasting all that time threading/rethreading who knows how many screws/taps into the same hole and wearing down perfectly good threads: use teflon tape on the threads to take up the extra space between the threads.

The bolts will stay in.

Wrap the bolt in teflon so the tape pulls tighter against the screw as you thread it in (because if it begins to back out, the tape will expand and increase it's grip).

Just like this:


However I would wrap the tape around 2-3 times because unlike the shower head in the video, your threads aren't tapered.

I did this with the underseat storage bolt for my Duc- works like a dream.
Many thanks. The bolt was slightly stripped as swapping the bolts produced the same result. My dear old dad whipped out the pipe tape for me and the bolt is now reasonably stable.
 

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Since that thread locking isn't the purposed of pipe tape, you should probably get a replacement bolt. Heck if you contact the supplier they may be willing to swap it out.
 
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