Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
714548


With the steering lock broken of late (no idea how) I have been using a disc lock. The one time I forgot to take the damn stretchy cable to remind me it is on there, I took off and went down in slow motion to the left. Indicator is mangled, but that was to be replaced regardless. And the mirror is scuffed, but that was also due to be replaced...the engine casing was scratched though. Its a 2011 speed triple.

I started to sand a little to try smooth it out, but am maybe making it worse!?

I see some paints recommended - anyone offer me an option for Australia? And does the dogs breakfast I have made of the cover look like I can get it back to near perfect? Or am I likely looking at getting another case/cover?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
You can try barbecue high-heat resistant spray can paint which is real easy to leave a smooth finish with no drips or uneven coverage, but it’s full matte so won’t quite match with the slight gloss of our cases.
Pro: cheap
Con: ghetto

Or
Getting a $122 replacement stator cover with its $12 gasket and a $10 gasket sealer.
Pro: the right way
Con: about 2 hour job

it comes down to deciding if the overall condition of the bike excluding the recent blemishes is worth to fix it the right way or the cheap way.

if you decide it's worth going thru the right channels then you’ll probably want to get a set of triumph’s bar end mirrors, triumph LED indicators set too which all said and done would run you about $650 and this is you doing all the labor of course. 🙇🏼‍♂️💸💸💸

If it’s not worth to do all this or not feeling like dropping this kind of coin eBay is your friend and it might very well get a almost perfect end result with the exception of the stator cover.
I’d say $100 total will take care of everything 🤑

Or maybe a halfway method: I would just replace the cover (make sure you sand off any old gasket residue) and get a mirror off eBay which sometimes get sold separately. And if the old indicator is OEM I’d pass by any euro showroom and shop store talk to the mechanic directly and ask him if he may have some OEM indicators laying around. They often do since the Ducatistas especially replace the OEM for LED and don’t bother keeping the old ones which are probably in brand new condition. $20 each will suffice for his beer money. Maybe get a few spares too.
This option could only run you about $200 with some luck but could take some time until you source all parts. 💵🤷🏼‍♂️🤔

Oh and after you’re done, invest on some frame sliders for engine case and bar ends at least.
714562

I’ve recently installed these T-Rex are based in Dallas but might do international shipping. I like how they look sleek and don’t have the annoying, big-as, cheap-looking R&G decal. They come with their own longer bolts and you don’t need to take off any covers to install. For bar ends r&g has the most selection to match your setup and they aren’t hideous.

You got options here and I’m not familiar with Australia’s junkyard parts availability but I’d think it’s a healthy market.

good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
View attachment 714548

With the steering lock broken of late (no idea how) I have been using a disc lock. The one time I forgot to take the damn stretchy cable to remind me it is on there, I took off and went down in slow motion to the left. Indicator is mangled, but that was to be replaced regardless. And the mirror is scuffed, but that was also due to be replaced...the engine casing was scratched though. Its a 2011 speed triple.

I started to sand a little to try smooth it out, but am maybe making it worse!?

I see some paints recommended - anyone offer me an option for Australia? And does the dogs breakfast I have made of the cover look like I can get it back to near perfect? Or am I likely looking at getting another case/cover?
You're kidding me.
Sanding/paint/sanding/paint....600 or 800 water paper. until perfection. You can get a dupont Honda black NH1 solvant paint (base coat) w/o applying clearcoat and without hardener. As it's getting so hot hardener is useless.
Even removing the case if useless. As it's base coat it will have a semi gloss finish that fit the original one.

I know what I am speaking about. I did it. And I am pretty picky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
You can try barbecue high-heat resistant spray can paint which is real easy to leave a smooth finish with no drips or uneven coverage, but it’s full matte so won’t quite match with the slight gloss of our cases.
Pro: cheap
Con: ghetto

Or
Getting a $122 replacement stator cover with its $12 gasket and a $10 gasket sealer.
Pro: the right way
Con: about 2 hour job

it comes down to deciding if the overall condition of the bike excluding the recent blemishes is worth to fix it the right way or the cheap way.

if you decide it's worth going thru the right channels then you’ll probably want to get a set of triumph’s bar end mirrors, triumph LED indicators set too which all said and done would run you about $650 and this is you doing all the labor of course. 🙇🏼‍♂️💸💸💸

If it’s not worth to do all this or not feeling like dropping this kind of coin eBay is your friend and it might very well get a almost perfect end result with the exception of the stator cover.
I’d say $100 total will take care of everything 🤑

Or maybe a halfway method: I would just replace the cover (make sure you sand off any old gasket residue) and get a mirror off eBay which sometimes get sold separately. And if the old indicator is OEM I’d pass by any euro showroom and shop store talk to the mechanic directly and ask him if he may have some OEM indicators laying around. They often do since the Ducatistas especially replace the OEM for LED and don’t bother keeping the old ones which are probably in brand new condition. $20 each will suffice for his beer money. Maybe get a few spares too.
This option could only run you about $200 with some luck but could take some time until you source all parts. 💵🤷🏼‍♂️🤔

Oh and after you’re done, invest on some frame sliders for engine case and bar ends at least.
View attachment 714562
I’ve recently installed these T-Rex are based in Dallas but might do international shipping. I like how they look sleek and don’t have the annoying, big-as, cheap-looking R&G decal. They come with their own longer bolts and you don’t need to take off any covers to install. For bar ends r&g has the most selection to match your setup and they aren’t hideous.

You got options here and I’m not familiar with Australia’s junkyard parts availability but I’d think it’s a healthy market.

good luck!
Right! Got some mirrors, a pair for $65AU. One needed replacing anyway and these are stock. Secondhand but no gravel rash.
Levers I have found the same as was on there for $25AU.

Just the stator case now to contend with...I found some Wurth as per the advice here>

So have a can of that coming this week. Will get some 200 and 400 sand paper this evening and get smoothing out.

Annoying really, as I wouldnt be using the disc lock if the steering lock hadn't broken (no sign of attempted theft and the bike is in a very camera focused position in the day and at night boat locked to the house near the room where I sleep). Will need to get that sorted if I want to sell the bike. WOnder what fix there is? Tried spraying WD40 down there but dont feel it did any good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
I did that on my 955 w/ success. That's a fact.
The paint never degraded or faded or anything else years after. And the scuffing was way worth.
The paint became hard because of the repeated heating cycle.

Obviously, single stage semigloss 2K would probably reach the same result.
But the Honda NH1 base coat was a perfect matching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Sanded down with wet 200 then 400. Seems pretty smooth now. And have en route some of this stuff, which I found suggested in another post on here.
714730

enginecase.jpg

Hope it works!

Will sand again with 800 wet grit, then masking tape and short sweeps for the first coat. Let dry, then the next day, wet sand lightly with the 800 grit and then add another coat?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
No, semigloss 2K will be superior in every respect, especially when it comes to chemical/solvent resistance.
The nominal solution is high temperature semigloss polyurethane paint(so 2k as well).
Maybe a 2k spray can would make it. never used that though.
This gentleman obviously doesn't have either the gun or the compressor.
So the solution will have to be a reasonable compromise don't you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,724 Posts
So the solution will have to be a reasonable compromise don't you think?
I only see two options. Replace the cover or fix it properly.
Either way the OP is up for a new gasket, as painting it in place is nothing short of ridiculous. Not sure what's planned for the bare alloy, but top-coating that directly will no doubt result in a fail.
This is where DIY starts to unravel, because while the products are available to use, it is often cost prohibitive to buy everything you need.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top