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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
still working on 69tr6r .Itook advance unit apart cleaned and lubed. itworks real free. When engine is running you can see it move with timeing light about one inch. problem is i have to move base plate allthe way to left to get mark on rotor to line up with timeing pointer. also had to move brackets to move points to left. i thought i might have a lot of ware in timeing gears but their doesn't appear to be.as i can rock back and forth and see little if any. It seems to be in in time now at least when fully advanced. don't now about static.seems to idle well. problem is i have no more advance adjustment. points are gaped at . 015 these are new points .i'v never worked on timeing of a triumph before so im looking for help!!!!!!!! :???:
 

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The automatic advance mechanism is supposed to be located to the camshaft by a peg in the cam and a notch in the auto advance. You should remove the auto advance and look to see if the peg is installed in the cam. Remove the center bolt and leave it hanging out about halfway. Tap on the bolt with a soft mallet left and right to break the aa unit taper from the camshaft. Look in the hole in the end of the cam and see if there is a small peg in there. Let us know what you find.
 

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Sounds like advancer is working properly. Double check which set of points is firing which cylinder. Take plug wires loose and insert old plugs and lay on cylinder head. Take a pencil or wood dowel and open each set of points with it with ignition on. Rear set of points should fire right side (timing side) and front set should fire left (drive side). Someone may have switched the wires at some point.
Set Main Points plate near middle, put timing light on cylinder fired by rear set and loosen and adjust rear secondary bracket by turning eccentric screw that moves it until light is on the mark at 2500rpm. You may have to move the main plate a little but it should still be close to the center. When rear is on, move timing light to cylinder fired by front set of points. Loosen and adjust front secondary bracket with its eccentric screw until mark is on at 2500 rpm. I had the same problem when I was did mine the first time. I had the timing light on the wrong cylinder for the points set I was adjusting.
 

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The timing mark on the alternator will line up with the pointer when the auto advance is fully advanced, with engine is running at about 2500 rpm, not static. To simulate having the engine running at that speed, rotate the advancer all the way clockwise and lock it down with an oversize washer. Then set the timing. Or use a strobe without the advance locked.
Again, if the peg that is supposed to be in the end of the camshaft (where the taper for the auto advance is located) is missing, the auto advance can be installed in any position, possibly moving the cam out of range for adjustments. Remove the auto advance and see if you can only put it back in one position. If the peg is missing, you will have to either replace it or do an extra couple of steps in the timing.
 

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Is it possible the exhaust cam gear is out by one or two teeth?

The other possibility would be that both sets of points on their individual plates are in the fully advanced position.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
found problem pin in end of cam is either broken or missing.I called Raybers in california. The person I talked to said he has seen this before .he told me I could put back together lineing up the notch and wher the pin should be as close as possible .Did this and got timeing right on. backing plate is still off center to left about 2/3 but better than it was. I want to thank all of you for the help. I'm sure i'll have more questions as time goes on. PS Raybers are good people deal with.
 

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Hi old thread I know but have an aau question. While checking the AAU I noticed the drive pin in the cam shaft is not exactly at 6 oclock. Maybe 6:30 or 7. Something tells me it should be. The engine timing is set with the pin in the flywheel at 38 BTDC. Is it possible the exhaust cam gear is out 1 or 2 teeth.?
Thank you Jerry
 

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