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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
stalls out. If you leave the bike for 30-45 minutes it will start again, and run strong for a minute and then stall out again.
I was on a little ride about 15 minutes up the road, and it ran fine all the way there. Half the way home, the bike just sort of shut off. It was almost as if it ran out of fuel. Stranded, i tried to start it for awhile with no luck. Had a friend bring my tools and changed the plugs and drained the bowl, and it started right up. I'm pretty sure this is not from anything I did, but the fact that it sat for 30+ minutes.
Today I took the carburetor completely apart, checkd via Plewsey's vid, blown out with air compressor, new air filter, 3rd kick it fired up. Then shut off 30 seconds later. Frustrated, I left for awhile and checked the forum for suggestions. One suggested that the float may be getting stuck, possibly on the bowl gasket. I had replace that, so i figured I did it wrong. Just to test, I took the bowl off, checked the petcocks for drip (all good), removed the bowl gasket and put the bowl back on gasketless.
Cranked up second kick. Ran for 30 seconds. shut off and won't start again. Arrgh!
And it's a beautiful riding weekend in SC with a totally free Sunday. Planned to ride all day. :( Even cleared with the wife.

Amal 930 single carb. 72 Tiger TR6RV. Needle in middle clip. Clear float (it has been replace) Good float needle (no coning) set as in Plewsey's video.
I've put 200 miles on the bike since I got it 10 days ago. This problem seems to have come out of the blue.
All comments are appreciated, hope I didn't miss the solution in my search!
Best,
Ash
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's probably about half or so. An inch or two above the center tank divider. (P.O. put a 750 tank on my Tiger 650).
 

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Hmm, thought there may have been less air in there than that, so I could well be wrong.
Loosen the filler cap and try the engine again.

Mark
 

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Did you check the fuel filter? May be letting fuel seep through after sitting a bit, but not enough to keep it running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No external filter that I know of, bdsecrest. I actually turn the petcocks off when the engine is not running. there is a screw in the bottom of the carb bowl, and when I take it out about 1/4 cup of fuel comes out (when it is primed).
 

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have you tried to see if your getting a spark when it wont start maybe the coils are breaking down when they get hot and when they cool down its ok do you get plenty of fuel through the tap if you disconect it from the carb?
 

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If you remove the float bowl drain plug and turn on the fuel,you should be able to catch at least 300ml per minute of fuel coming through.You'll probably get 4 times that.If its O.K.,stop looking in the carburettor.
Look at the ignition,especially ignition switch and kill-switch,loose/corroded connectors etc.Has it got electronic ignition or points?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks, Mr. Pete. Carb checks out, at least as far as function. I'm sure I'll have to tune it once I really get it warm.
Bikerisme, I think that's the next test for this evening. I think at this point it is
1. Pazon electric ignition malfunction (wiring problem)
2. Ignition switch (don't believe the kill switch is wired in. PO made a cafe style bike out of it, and a lot of the wiring is rerouted.)
3. Wiring issue. Starting to think the battery is not charging correctly, which is why the last time this happened, I put it on the charger and changed the plugs and it ran great. Got it out on the road and went 25 miles no problem, stopped running and left me on the side of the road, had my wife bring me new plugs and it still wouldn't start.
cleaned the carb twice, ran it with no gasket to interfere with the float bowl, and checked petcocks so I'm thinking electrical. At full charge the battery just read 12. 72. We'll see what it reads when I check it later, possibly after a 20 minute ride!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
P.S. this is why I plan to buy a new wiring harness and strip the frame, powder coat it and put it back original this winter! Then I'll really know what's in there. And I'll have turn signals again *grin*. It did come with all the original parts.
 

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quits after a while

The next time it stops try opening/removing the seat and see if it starts. Sounds silly, but my 73 Bonnie and my friends 72 BSA (Same frame) both had issues with electrical bits shorting against the metal seat pan.
Do tell if I'm right! I'm rather proud to have figured mine out!
Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Again, no dice.
Battery reading virtually unchanged after 6 hours, checked and re checked the carb, checked the petcocks, fuel lines and gas cap. Pulled the plugs out and kicked her over and got spark on both sides. Starting to think it has something to do with the Pazon ignition or something inside the kickstart mechanism itself. It doesn't seem to spring back up as quickly as it did last week after a kick, and it seems to slide sometimes in a compressed kick, if that makes any sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
dazed and confused.

Todd,
I had read about this in Gator Napper's thread, so I did think to check it! The bum stop cafe seat on there right now has a fiberglass bottom, so I don't think that's it unfortunately.
I'm thinking the ignition trigger plate for the pazon sure fire ignition might be loose or something. Maybe that explains the lazy kick lever? Definitely over my head at this point. I've got fire, fuel and brand new air filters in my pancake filter. Definitely missing something.:(
 

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you seem to have checked most things did you check the battery volts after putting the battery on charge or when it broke down? if the bikes not charging enough may be the batterys running down enough to interfere with the pazon?my electronic would not fire if the battery was run down you could try next time it happens turn on the headlight and beep the horn should have enought to work it, looks like somethings breaking down when it gets hot if you can drive 20 miles or so before it goes wrong, your kick start not returning properly could be the spring inside the gearbox
 

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Here's 2 items that could be related to your problem when the bike heats up: 1 The carb manifold O-ring leaks air. I use a "thick" #219 O-ring (70-9711) for a better seal and heat isolation. 2 Check your compression when hot. The valve lash being too tight will hold the valves slightly open, cause loss of compression, causing the motor to stall and making it kick over too easily.
Spray WD-40 or starting ether or carb cleaner onto the carb/manifold joint and listen for an rpm increase, indicating a leak.
Listen to your valve clatter for a quiet one.
Carry a jumper wire and connect the negative (-ve) battery terminal to the 1st coil -ve to eliminate the ignition switch or kill switch as the cause.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Eureka! You know those two wires that go down into the case, by the foot brake? Green/white and green/yellow? The bike doesn't run too good when the bullet connectors in those lines are rusted and partially melted. They had a black plastic encasement on them, and one was OK, just a bit rusty where it entered the casing. The other, however, was destroyed. Fired first kick after some soldering and heat shrink. Can't wait to get off work and see how she does on the road!
Thanks for all the suggestions. Every bit of knowledge is something I'll use sometime or another with a 40 year old bike. All worth it.
Take care,
Ash
 

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Excellent! Your 1st indicator that the battery is losing charge will be the turn signals will blink slowly or not at all, followed by a weak horn and dim headlight. Shining the rest of your bullet connectors, spade terminals, and ground terminals and coating with dielectric grease is a good idea. I use a small pocket screwdriver to ream the female part of the bullet connector, and a scotch-brite pad on the "bullet". Ensure that the bullets are fully into the shrouds by poking them in with a small screwdriver until they bottom. I check the brightness of my headlight by its reflection every time I pull up behind a pick-up or van at a stoplight. I also check with my hand extended in front for a bright white light at idle. Weak voltage to the horn will make it sound like a frog or the sound will be static-y.
After dying due to low voltage, with the lights off,the battery may recover enough to restart and get you home if you don't let the revs drop below 2100. This may take a push-start to achieve good rpm. A weak yellow spark isn't as good as a fat blue one, but it might get you home. Two 6ft lengths of 14ga wire with alligator clips on each end packs up small and can get you jump-started. Get wire with lots of small strands. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Bob, that is a great tip! After what I've seen so far, I have an idea of a tool kit to carry, and the 14 guage wire is perfect. My mother in law (cue Ernie K. Doe) sews really well, and I think i'm going to have her make a custom roll up tool kit for the back of the bike.
As far as the light tests, i do the same thing with the headlight when I come up behind a pickup. Unfortunately, due to the PO's cafe cosmetics (pretty nice IMHO) I have no turn signals, tach, or horn! it came with all the original parts so this winter, after the powder coat, I'll put everything back on.
On that point I'm wondering whether to seek out an original tank. The one on the bike is from a 750 of some sort (as discovered by the fine folks at British Cycle Supply) and I like it fine. i think it's larger capacity so that's a plus.
For now, I plan to ride the hell out of it! Put 10 miles on after work. Gotta tune the idle and such, but I'm really doing it all by ear since there's no tach and I don't know any Triumph guys around here. I've been watching videos to get a good idea of what's in spec.
The current goal is 3 hour trips down to the coast. I just have to get to the point that I can trust the bike on the road. Both ways.
Thanks again for all the help ya'll.
Take care,
Ash
 
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