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I watched Plewsy's most excellent video but my rocker boxes only have the wee round inspection hole, not the later oblong access port. Anyone got a trick solution for getting the feeler gauge between the tappet and the valve stem? Plus, my shop manual reprint has the clearance at .02" for both inlet and exhaust on my 64 Trophy, yet I notice everywhere else the clearances are listed as .002 inlet and .004 exhaust...I'm taking the sheer volume of that info as correct and the .02" as a misprint...
 

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Hi oldroadie,
Maybe the 64 Trophy had different valve clearances, I have no idea :confused: But certainly most of the 650s all have the .02" and .04" you have mentioned.
The main thing is that they are not too tight, if you can hear them, they're good :)

As for the feeler gauges, I've got the early OIF rockers with the extra (leaky) holes in the sides. I've seen guys here suggesting a small feller gauge on a stick that they like. (try a search here for something like "popsicle feeler gauges" and you should see what I mean)
I've never seen them over here in Europe, so I just buy cheap feeler gauges, remove the leaves I need and bend them.

I hope this helps

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Webby. I had already tried curling the feelers but I still didn't think I got a fair measurement; next step to bend them proper and see if that works. I suspect since they all have a bit of play I won't damage anything by turning the engine over, which is my goal at this point, to try and pump oil and lube all of the journals and bearing surfaces. We won't be starting anything until I build a wiring harness...
 

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Hi OR,

There's no curling here, it really is bending to the point where you will probably put a crease in the blades.
That's why I said buy a cheap set :) You should be able to find things like that dirt cheap in Sears. (I wish we had Sears over here :()

Webby
 

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Hi oldroadie,
Maybe the 64 Trophy had different valve clearances, I have no idea :confused: But certainly most of the 650s all have the .02" and .04" you have mentioned.
The main thing is that they are not too tight, if you can hear them, they're good :)

Webby
.02" = 0.020" (twenty thou.)
.04" = 0.040" (forty thou.)
With clearances like that,you will certainly hear the tappets rattling themselves to pieces.
Correct clearance for a '64 is INTAKE=0.002" (two thou.) ,EXHAUST=0.004" (four thou.)
 

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.02 vs .002

I had the same question - somewhere in my manual it says .02 but I think that setting if for when doing some ignition timing or something like that...

When you are setting the tappets, the correct setting is:

.002" for intake valves and
.004" for exhaust

I did mine by feel - as I had a lot of trouble getting a feeler gauge in there.

Turn the screw until it's touching - back off about 1/4 turn for exhaust and a teensy bit less for intakes.

You will hear a bit of a click when you pull the rocker up and down when it hits the valve stem.

Probably the best way is to use a dial gauge, but I can't afford one right now.

Good luck - and remember too loose is safer than too tight (burnt valves when too tight...)
 

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1/8 turn = 0.0048",which is close enough for the exhaust clearance.
Use 1/2 of that on the intake.1/16 turn = 0.0024"
Now you're talkin'. The only way to set Triumph tappets.

I have to say I never get too excited with the tappets. Near enough is good enough for me. RR
 

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If you have Felix Unger tendencies (like I do), the dial indicator is the way to go. First, it allows you to check them before you disturb them and perhaps preclude you from needing to touch them at all.

Too tight is your biggest concern. And if your valve wear in, they could get too tight. Extra (but not excessive) clearance only increase valve clatter a bit, but also assures you of properly closed valves.

Harbor Freight sells indicators with mag based for little money. They just ran a special for $25 I believe. I have several dial and Last Word type indicators I've picked up in yard sales and used tool shops for small money compared to buying name brand stuff new. There were also Last Word type indicators made before they came out with the dial type that simply used mechanical ratios to move a pointer on a scale. Most people do not even know what the are and nobody buys them in used tool stores.

I just did a quick search on ebay and there are all kinds of indicators lists for cheap prices. Just search "dial indicator" and you will find them. Make sure you ask the seller if the movement is free in both directions with no sticking of any kind. Ask if he has ever lubricated the internal movement. If he says yes, DON'T buy it. Chances are he's screwed it up or was trying to fix a sticky movement. These indicators are large watches inside. Not tolerant of idiots with oil cans.
regards,
Rob
 

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.02" = 0.020" (twenty thou.)
.04" = 0.040" (forty thou.)
With clearances like that,you will certainly hear the tappets rattling themselves to pieces.
Correct clearance for a '64 is INTAKE=0.002" (two thou.) ,EXHAUST=0.004" (four thou.)
Bugger!
Missed out a couple of zeros there!
Sorry for any confusion, I promise to be more awake next time :)

Webby
 

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The .002 inlet (tick) and .004 exhaust (tock) figures are so that when the engine is hot the gap is nil. [at that valve timing].
If its still `tappety` when hot, the gaps are too wide.
 

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when the engine is hot the gap is nil.
Valve lash clearances usually increase when a push-rod OHV engine warms up,with the intke opening more than the exhaust.
On a side-valve engine,the intake clearance increases and exhaust decreases when hot.
On an OHC engine the clearance decreases on intake and exhaust, and more on the exhaust when the engine is hot.
How much clearance you need depends on the profile of the opening and closing ramps on the cam.
Sometimes different clearances will give best results at different engine speeds.
 
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