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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I tried to lessen the tension on my throttle grip so I took it apart and after realizing that there is no way to adjust or reposition the spring to alíviate kickback torque I put everything back, all parts fit as they should (or so I thought). Only thing, now it doesn’t work.
Some odd noises are present at startup and after turning it off and when cranking the throttle without starting it but ignition on.
sounds like something needs to be reset or recalibrated.
It idles at 3k rpms and one time it idled at redline! And then back to 3k when restarting it. But no response when throttling at all.
I unplugged the battery in hopes the ECU would reset it properly but no luck.
I’ll try to upload the video since for some reason it’s not letting me. Edit: below is the Dropbox link.
Thanks for your help!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qpttav81vdm72iw/IMG_0983.mov?dl=0
 

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I tried to lessen the tension on my throttle grip so I took it apart and after realizing that there is no way to adjust or reposition the spring to alíviate kickback torque I put everything back, all parts fit as they should (or so I thought). Only thing, now it doesn’t work.
Some odd noises are present at startup and after turning it off and when cranking the throttle without starting it but ignition on.
sounds like something needs to be reset or recalibrated.
It idles at 3k rpms and one time it idled at redline! And then back to 3k when restarting it. But no response when throttling at all.
I unplugged the battery in hopes the ECU would reset it properly but no luck.
I’ll try to upload the video since for some reason it’s not letting me. Edit: below is the Dropbox link.
Thanks for your help!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qpttav81vdm72iw/IMG_0983.mov?dl=0
There's no reason anything would need to be reset or recalibrated just by taking the throttle apart, you must have put something back together incorrectly, I'd take it apart and have another look.
Others will probably come on to say you need to do a TPS reset but if it's back together as it was there will be no need, and anyway it wouldn't idle at 3k or redline, at most it would be 1 or 2% off.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you racer, I also think that’s the case, although there isn’t too many components to it. There was a small square (plastic?) piece that fit into a hole but that’s about it, perhaps it has an orientation or a spring that’s missing from under?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Update:
The Autoparts guys were able to reset the code P2138 (throttle/pedal position sensor/switch D/E ) but still running on “limp home” mode at a constant 3k rpm with no throttle input at all.
Funny thing is on my way to the store I did have almost normal throttle response but it would shut off if I let it off completely. And right after resetting the codes bam! Red-lined again with no throttle input twice in a row. Then back to 3k.
I read that the limp state (pun intended) “should” clear out.
Not holding my breath tho.
 

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Update:
The Autoparts guys were able to reset the code P2138 (throttle/pedal position sensor/switch D/E ) but still running on “limp home” mode at a constant 3k rpm with no throttle input at all.
Funny thing is on my way to the store I did have almost normal throttle response but it would shut off if I let it off completely. And right after resetting the codes bam! Red-lined again with no throttle input twice in a row. Then back to 3k.
I read that the limp state (pun intended) “should” clear out.
Not holding my breat tho.
Apologies, I didn't realise you had taken apart the actual twist grip position sensor, I thought you'd only taken the throttle tube off:frown2:
That changes things quite a lot, the p2138 code according to the Thruxton manual anyway is a correlation error between twistgrip position sensor 1 and sensor 2, I don't exactly know how the sensor works but there must be two separate outputs that need to read the same within a certain tolerance as a safety measure. Because you've split the unit you've moved them relative to each other and created the fault, this is where I'm guessing but maybe one or both of the outputs come from the small gear turning a analogue or digital encoder, I'm not sure if that small block you're moving is linked to a old school carbon track that is one of the outputs, like I said I'm guessing at this stage.
Now that you've had a unit apart you definitely will need a TPS reset at least to reset the zero position, tune ECU would be the easiest way to do this.
That may or may not fix it:smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like the square block is indeed a sensor, and yes it totally makes sense that the small gear is the secondary one. I found a service manual for the Tiger and steps to troubleshoot the P2138 and further I found that the adaptations can be forced with the 12min reset method (see second attachment).
Other solution could be rotating that little gear tooth by tooth and testing each time for the old position, but who knows if I get the right tooth the ecu would detect it in real time instead of after x amount of warm up cycles etc. Maybe doable?
 

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I only suggested tune ECU because you can reset the closed throttle position with one press of a button and it only takes a couple of seconds, if your bike decides to idle at 3000rpm it wouldn't be a good idea to leave it for 12 minutes to do the adaption, and don't forget that's 12 minutes after the fan has kicked in.
Unfortunately I can't see anything in the service manual that gives you details of the signals from each sensor to get them balanced, it's just basically checking for short and open circuit and then replacing the sensor, that's as much as a triumph spanner monkey would do.
I would get a Bluetooth adaptor and reset it via TuneECU, it'll save you going elsewhere to reset the fault codes afterwards anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No biggie resetting the code, even though I just went by the store again and not only the code came back but he wasn’t able to clear it.
I just changed a tooth of that little gear and the odd noises went away. Just a faint but constant whistling coming from the throttle bodies at all times and about 5 seconds after shutting off the bike.
The limp home mode is still active after the 12min reset, and yes I saw some bubbling coolant spew thru the purge hose, but didn’t seem to “adapt” to the new position of the sensors. Will try and move it another tooth up and see if I get normal operation. But again. I don’t really know if limo home mode is overriding the grip sensors even if they come back to correct position huh..
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update:
Turns out that the small gear had a “1” right next to one tooth, so logically that meant to go in the first groove of the bigger gear.
Done! Back in business like nothing happened.

PS: ride by wire throttle isn’t adjustable after all. 😞
I guess fabricating a softer custom spring would be the way of I really want to get a throttle fit for for my delicate limp wristed right hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Err.. just my awkward way of describing the throttle spring load 😉 I think my bewilderment at the moment took over my ability to form coherent sentences, I blame my ESL 😛
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bike is now idling at 2400rpms but throttle response is normal.
Would the idling go back to 1250 by itself after ecu clears the code?
 

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Update:
Turns out that the small gear had a “1” right next to one tooth, so logically that meant to go in the first groove of the bigger gear.
Done! Back in business like nothing happened.

PS: ride by wire throttle isn’t adjustable after all. 😞
I guess fabricating a softer custom spring would be the way of I really want to get a throttle fit for for my delicate limp wristed right hand.
Well done for persevering and figuring it out, it's useful information.
Wonder if changing to larger grips would make it easier or are your limp wristed hands too small:laugh2:
Is there any cruise control option on the new st 765?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Physics say that it in fact it would be easier, though the fit for the sensors pegs are a bit rare as I recall when looking for Rizoma grips, it was difficult to find other brands specced for my model to compare features and price.
Also I already bought the Rizomas and these Italians aren’t known for their bargains I’d say.
I actually have a crump buster cruise control lever but it proves a bit inconvenient when riding highway/street. And swapping to a proper cruise control with the 765 (if it comes with it) would be a blow to my macho ego for not riding a liter bike. Oh well...
But one headache at a time, anybody with a clue on if/when this rather annoying 2500rpm idling is going away?
Thanks!
 

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Sorry, it's not the first time I've got my speed and street triples mixed up on the forum, didn't realise you were on a 1050:grin2:
that makes it more surprising that you're having trouble with your grip strength, I thought you had to bench press 300 before they would even let you test ride a speed triple:laugh2:
I think you'll need to do a proper TPS reset with tune ECU or dealer tool to sort out the idle, I have my doubts as other people do about how much that 12-minute idle really achieves, it definitely doesn't seem to reset the throttle closed position the same as pressing the tps reset button.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I did have to fake my gym paperwork to get the ok at the dealer on that one.
So.. check engine light went away today after only 2 warm up cycles that is. Checked the code and still present (P2138) they wouldn’t clear it this time due to their contract with the city to not take business from the mech. shops around.
I looked into tune ecu but there are too many connectors that failed to connect successfully. If anybody has a tried and true Bluetooth obd2 connector link I can get I’d appreciate it.
That if it’s really is necessary to reset the TPS.
 

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I've successfully connected with this one about a dozen times. It has never failed to connect for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D58XMHL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pretty sure it's Bluetooth only for that model year.
This from the tune ECU website
Speed Triple S, RS, R from VIN # 735438 - Android version & Bluetooth only***
OBDLink LX or OBDLink MX (firmware v4.3 or up) or OBDLink MX+ (firmware v4.5 or up)
These are the only adaptors that will allow you the option to reprogram (download a new map)
There are other cheaper options that will just allow the test and maintenance functions without reprogramming but it can be hit-and-miss whether they work at all.
Personally I would go with the LX, you never know when you may need to update a map or disable exup/sai etc.
 

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Update:
Turns out that the small gear had a “1” right next to one tooth, so logically that meant to go in the first groove of the bigger gear.
Done! Back in business like nothing happened.

PS: ride by wire throttle isn’t adjustable after all. 😞
I guess fabricating a softer custom spring would be the way of I really want to get a throttle fit for for my delicate limp wristed right hand.
Hello Nicspeed
I think the small gear is conected to a potentiometer(variable resistor) when the small wheel is turned you create an error voltage that makes the electric motor on the throttle turn which in turn is geared to another potentiometer that as the motor turns cancels the error voltage and the throttle stops at the selected position. Example 1/4 twist of the grip 1/4 opening of throttle butterfly. Looking at the picture I don`t see any electronics just the variable resitor. you reasoned well.
Juan
 
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