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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend has a 97 Triumph Sprint ST that was put in storage in 2004. It has ~9,000 miles on it but was just put in storage without any planning. One day he just stopped riding it.

The gas was left in the tank as well as all other fluids. All of the rubber looks to be in good shape and is still soft and doesn't look dried out or cracked.

The past weekend I moved the bike to my garage and I'm on a mission to see if I can get this thing running. If I do get it running and want to buy it he'll sell it to me for $1,000. My thinking is I don't have much to lose other than the cost of a new battery and fluids and a little time which I can put into the bike as sweat equity.

Any tips or tricks I need to know before I get started?

I plan on getting a new battery, draining the gas, oil and coolant and replacing with new, then seeing if it will start.

If anyone has any advice on a better course of action or tips on what to do and in what order I'm all ears and will probably defer to the collective experience any of you with experience with these bikes.

Or if you thnk I should walk away now without creating a headache for myslef (cost is too high, etc) please let me know.

Thanks
 

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Just drain the petrol and give it a go with a new battery....then if it runs you can then change the oil & coolant brake fluid etc etc..

You will need to get it running anyway to warm up the oil and settle the coolant level in case of air locks etc.

Well that's what I'd do

Best of luck with it ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just drain the petrol and give it a go with a new battery....then if it runs you can then change the oil & coolant brake fluid etc etc..

You will need to get it running anyway to warm up the oil and settle the coolant level in case of air locks etc.

Well that's what I'd do

Best of luck with it ;-)
This is exactly the type of feedback I'm looking for. I'm going to start my search for a new battery and take a look this evening to see if I can figure out how to drain the gas.
 

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Welcome, VooDooPoope. A grand is a pretty sweet deal for one of these bikes!

I would do as Mot advises, with one addition: I would dump half a can of Seafoam into the gas tank, let it settle for a few hours or a day, then drain the carb bowls & let that sit for a day or so.

I'm not 100% sure on the Keihins that will be on that bike, but the Mikuni carbs on pre-'97 bikes have drain screws on the bottom of each bowl. (I think maybe the Keihins actually have hoses?)

Oh, and a '97 is just a Sprint, not a Sprint ST. The ST & RS models started up in '99.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome, VooDooPoope. A grand is a pretty sweet deal for one of these bikes!

I would do as Mot advises, with one addition: I would dump half a can of Seafoam into the gas tank, let it settle for a few hours or a day, then drain the carb bowls & let that sit for a day or so.

I'm not 100% sure on the Keihins that will be on that bike, but the Mikuni carbs on pre-'97 bikes have drain screws on the bottom of each bowl. (I think maybe the Keihins actually have hoses?)

Oh, and a '97 is just a Sprint, not a Sprint ST. The ST & RS models started up in '99.

Cheers,
-Kit
Thanks. This sounds like great advice.
 

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The fuel petcock is vacuum operated but you can get the fuel out of the tank with out the engine running by turning the knob pointer up to the "prime" position. This mechanically opens the valve.

My Keihins appear to have drain plugs but they're a b**** to get to. You will soon discover that the most difficult thing to work on is the carb rack, it's tight quarters.
 

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Keihins or Mikunis both drain from the bottom screws. You can drain all you want, but if it has been sitting be prepared to pull the carbs, clean them out and at a minimum poke out the pilot jets (it will never idle on all three unless you do). Probably save time and frustration in the long run. If you are handy it is not that bad of a job if you take your time.

I have also never personally had Seafoam or anything else resurrect a fully gummed-up carb/pilots jet even if left soaking for a week, although heaven knows I have tried many times. If it doesn't run well even if it sorta starts, just hitch-up yer britches and clean the carbs/jets the hard way.

Removing the carbs is a bit of a hassle (pull sides, tank, release the throttle cable from the grip, loosen clamps, slide out, disconnect choke cable, etc.) PM me for some tricks that make it a bit easier I have collected from others over the last couple of years. I now have it down to a science :)

This, new gas, and a fully topped battery would be my start. Don't hose your sprag by trying to start over and over with with half a battery.
 

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+1 On DJW's suggestion. Anything that has been sitting for 4 yrs. will have that stale varsol smelling brown crap congealed in the pilot jets and float valves. Also remove the caps on the mixture screws if not already done. Remove the the mixture screws and clean and blow out the idle circuit passages. Make sure cleaner comes out of the tiny hole behind the throttle plate.
 

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+1 On DJW's suggestion. Anything that has been sitting for 4 yrs. will have that stale varsol smelling brown crap congealed in the pilot jets and float valves. Also remove the caps on the mixture screws if not already done. Remove the the mixture screws and clean and blow out the idle circuit passages. Make sure cleaner comes out of the tiny hole behind the throttle plate.
And after you remove the caps on the idle mixture screws, reset all of them to 2.5 turns out so it is closer to the euro setting (see the old T3 FAQ).

Frankly, I would leave the oil and coolant alone for now if the levels are right to get it running so you don't get distracted (save that for project part B). I think you may have your hands full with getting the fuel system tiptop - you could have a miracle and nothing clogged in the carbs, but I doubt it. If it does run well immediately, a good warm up should really cook all the cooties and condensation out of your oil & coolant for the short term. :) Change those after you own the bike.

When the carbs and fuel system is working right, these T3 bikes start right up and are very sweet runners - pull like champs from idle on up. Any stumbling or hiccups at all points to the carbs usually. Often why someone lets them sit if they've gotten their carbs gummed up and won't pay the dealer for a $400 cleaning (a couple hours work and poke-out of the pilot jets).

If you are going to let a carbed T3 sit for a few months, put some stabil in or fill it with some AVGAS if you have a nearby supply (DAMHIK).
 

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when i put a new motor in my daytona, i filled it with oil, then turned it over without the plugs in, until the oil pressure light went out.this ensures oil circulation to all the major parts of the engine before the stresses and heat of it actually starting and idling
 

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Moving ahead a bit, there is a chance that the clutch might be frozen, might, that is.

It so, it will require a strip down and clean up. of course, it could also be perfectly ok!

Sounds like this will be a beaut bike...

Cheers,

Roden
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the great feedback. I'll keep you all updated as I get this project started.

DJW I will be sending you a PM when I get ready to pull this thing apart. I need all the tips and tricks I can get.

I pulled the battery last night and meant to bring it to work with me today so I could call around to find a replacement and left it sitting in the garage.

I also have some photos that I'll post later tonight or tomorrow.
 

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Yuasa YTX14AHL-BS maintenance free, or YB14LA2 conventional is the battery iirc. Pretty sure yours is the same as with all the T3 in this series.

They're usually at most motorcycle shops, I find mine at a nearby Honda dealer ready to go if I need one today, plan ahead and get it online for just a few bucks less. Yuasa has a good history making batteries for motorcycles and you'll get 2x+ service over a Wal-mart special.

FWIW on your project cost, I'd surmise you'll have it running for the cost of a battery and some sweat equity.
 

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And do go with the maintenance-free; totally worth the price!

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks for the info on the battery. I'm going to call around and see if I can find one at the Honda dealer on my way home.
 

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Probably worth mentioning that the manual for these said something like "do not operate the starter for more than 5 seconds" and "wait 15 seconds between starting attempts to let the starter cool off".

I wonder how many starter motors and sprags we'd have if the above was done and the US folks had the switch to turn the headlight off? I'd not flatten the battery trying to start it also.

If the carbs idle mixture screws are still capped you will probably need full choke to start it.
 

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I wouldn't even buy a battery. Just jump it from a disconnected car battery. It will only draw as much current as it needs.

Jack
 
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