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Hi all,
this question comes up every now and then.

I had a talk to the very experienced Senior Triumph Tech that always works on my bike and this is how I was told it is done:


Start bike, preferably from cold.

DO NOT touch the throttle.

Allow the bike to idle until the cooling fan cuts in.

Once the fan is cut in wait a moment then switch off.

This allows the ECU to reset all the settings in it's tiny little head.

The reason not to touch the throttle is that the moment you touch it everything in the ECU changes.

The reason for leaving idling until the cooling fan cuts in is because the fan switching on is the last thing the sagem unit has to "sense" before doing it's own reset.

So if you try this and blip the throttle nothing will change.

So the wise man told me and I have no reason to doubt his word.

Apparently every now and then for some reasons the ECU gets a glitch in it and this resets it back to what it should be.

I did not ask about the 1050 engine, '05 onwards machines as you have the newer Kehin ECU and it will most likely be a different procedure for you.

Cheers,
DaveM:3dcool:
 

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Realy, realy weird!?! I was thinking about this very same thing this a.m. as I cranked up for an early morning ride (not to beat the heat; to beat the rain).
Thanks. Good reminder.
:goodpost::thumbsup:
 

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Thanks for info DaveM.

OnD, even with this drought, I managed to catch rain showers 5X in 3 rides this week. Last was today, got bike nice and clean from all recent rain riding and rode all day in the mountains. 10 minutes from home I get caught in a shower that lasts for maybe 1 mile. Felt good in the heat, but bike is slimed again from road spray. Such a good problem to have.

kc, not dumb at all. It's about the same as rebooting your computer. The ecu does as DaveM described, it gathers info from the various sensors and then uses this to control your engine. By allowing this "clean cycle" to run as described, the ECU will capture the "clean" data that will help the ECU perform it's job as designed/better than using partial "corrupted" data it may have stored from previous riding. Or as it was also explained to me, Computers run on Pure F'in Magic. If they run low on PFM, DaveM contacts OnD and sends him in with his Tune Boy Light Saber to fill the PFM back up so there is balance in the Universe. DaveM and OnD can do this as DaveM is tight with the BBMFIC.(don't ask).

Ride safe all.
Bob:Cigar:

(DaveM, I'm liking these cigars, beer is good:beerchug:, but could you round up some good sour mash whiskey to go with em? Thanks in advance)
 

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ECU light sabers, the force and magic!

Good enough for me Bob!:welldone::icon_drink:

Well described mate.

Like the man said kc5deb no dumb questions here.

If you don't ask you don't learn.......if you don't learn........well you get the general idea!:v_SPIN:

DaveM:smackglass:
 

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Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I performed most of my 24,000 mile, with the exception of fork oil renew and cam check. After renewing the air filter, my check engine light appeared (because of the operator not disconnecting the battery, and setting off a fault code). The bike ran fine afterwards, except for the annoying idiot light glaring at me from the cockpit.

I followed the SIMPLE instructions in this thread and bye-bye trouble light.

Thanks Again DaveM.

I have appended this as a note in my service manual for future reference!
 

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DaveM;

Did you turn the bike off with the key, or the stop switch?

Does it matter?
 

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DaveM;

Did you turn the bike off with the key, or the stop switch?

Does it matter?
Some have done everything to kill it from kill switches to kickstands.
Personally to me its a modern piece of equipment with a more modern computer running the whole show, not like my '72 Kaw bug killer. I use the key.

A lot and I mean a lot have thumbed their bikes off and left the key on. "Anybody got jumper cables?".

Don
 

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Some have done everything to kill it from kill switches to kickstands.
Personally to me its a modern piece of equipment with a more modern computer running the whole show, not like my '72 Kaw bug killer. I use the key.

A lot and I mean a lot have thumbed their bikes off and left the key on. "Anybody got jumper cables?".

Don
Don;

I agree and always use the key.

But, in this special case of "re-booting", which is better?
 

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DaveM;

Did you turn the bike off with the key, or the stop switch?

Does it matter?
From all that I have read you always use the key and never the stop switch except in emergencies, that’s my two cents works. Has anyone found out if this works for 2005+

Jeffro 2005 ST 500 miles
 

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AHA!!! splendid thought i was gonna have to troll thru the forum for ages to find this:D
splendid Dave an thanx;)

now i gotta go back to the beginin of the thread an read your orig post as ive now forgot wht it said:D

an I agree The Key is the Key to stoppin the motor:D
 

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Please let me clarify what this function does - note that this is not a catch-all 'reset' function that "resets all settings"
Most importantly, it ONLY applies to 2002+ Sprints equipped with 02 sensor.
The process it adjusts is actually called 'adaption' and is to re-teach the idle fuel trims. It does not literally 're-set' it but re-teaches it by adjusting the fuel trims as it sees fit, while analyzing the O2 sensor.

It will do nothing on a pre-02 (non O2 sensor) bike and it resets no other constants or MIL lights etc.

It is also unneccesary to wait till cooling fan comes on:
the following conditions (only) need to be met:

 

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Hi all this is my first post, and would like to say this ecu fix just saved me $30 from the dealer. I just instauled a h.i.d in the high beam on my 08 sprint, all went well but seen engine light stayed on, but not now thanks sprinters.
 

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reset adaptations on a KEIHIN EFI BIKE

just went through the idle / fan/ no touch throttle proceedure on my 07 ST and it did not appear to do anything. I did some more research in my manuals and you follow the same proceedure but you leave the bike idleing for an additional 12 minutes before the adaptation reset takes effect.

Still trying to figure out why mine is surging and idles fine on startup but after it has run a while it wants to idle low...???:D
 

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Just to assure some of the 1050 owners, I have just serviced my bike '05 ST 1050 (4 years old with 22K miles) and on starting up was greeted by the orange light of doom!

Anyway, I tried the 3 heat cycles trick (stone cold to fan on for a minute or so) and the light went out on the 4th start up!

Due to not having the kit and it being part of this service, I booked the bike in at a dealers for throttle ballance and got them to check the ECU for errors at the smae time - it came up clean, they even updated the 2005 ECU program to the 2009 program.

So it does work if to clear old errors, however I would suggest if on the 4th start the light is still on then there really is somthing wrong that will not 'clear'. If that's the case, I'm afraid it's wallet out time.

Hope this helps someone, Tom
 

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Same problem...

Hi All,

I just replaced the battery (third one in 6 months - I am guessing the previous brand was just bad). All was OK then suddenly the engine light came on and stays on; the gas gauge seems to register for a while then it goes to empty and on comes the gas warning light.

I tried the above cold start to hot once and it didn't seem to clear it. Should I try this two more times (I read this somewhere else)?

The bike itself rides as if nothing is wrong. I noticed some water around the gas cap so emptied the tank, removed the pump and float (it seemed to be free moving) and put new gas in. Same problem.

Any ideas?

Cheers
Rob
 
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