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I don't wish to start another oil thread so I'm just passing this on from Mobil about the use of their Mobil 1 15W-50 in motorcycle use as some of us had in a discussion a few days ago on an earlier posting. Take it for what it's worth.
The question was is it OK to use Mobil 1 15w-50 in motorcycles that share their engine oil with their transmission.

From Mobil today ;
It is not recommended, the product does contain small amounts of
friction modifiers and could cause wet clutch issues, the Mobil1 V-TWIN
20W50 motorcycle motor oil is the appropriate choice.

--
Thank you for choosing ExxonMobil products.
If you need further assistance, please contact ExxonMobil at 1-800-ASK-MOBIL

MJ
 

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I'm sure they know what their talking about, ...but..., I have used 15w-50 Mobile-1 for the last 15-20 years in many, various bikes and have never had a single clutch problem. I am no oil expert, however, that has been my experience and I will continue to use it.
 

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Motul 5000 15w50 is all I use. No problems, its fairly cheap and easliy accessible
 

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I'm sure they know what their talking about, ...but..., I have used 15w-50 Mobile-1 for the last 15-20 years in many, various bikes and have never had a single clutch problem. I am no oil expert, however, that has been my experience and I will continue to use it.


DITTO..!
 

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That fine if you use it and it works but to say that because you have used it for 15-20 years is not really relevant. The oil standards have probably changed a few times since then and so has the make up of the oil. The Mobil 1 15-50 of 1985 wouldn't be the same as the Mobil 1 15-50 of today. Not a flame, just a side note :)
 

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With very good oils out there I'm trying to understand this mystic about Mobil. Unless asked I don't think even my dealer has put Mobil oils in even though it's Triumph's in the bed brand. They've always put in SilkOLene. And I think for a good reason if my bike is any indication. Motul also is a vg oil.

Why putz around? Is it going to bust the bank to put in a proper oil?
 

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These days, oils are all pretty good and unless your thrashing the what nots off it from cold the engine will last way beyond when you'll sell or crash the bike.

Pete
 

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Like Calloway said. Smoking a a pack a day for 20 years with no problems still doesn't make it a smart choice.
 

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I'm sure they know what their talking about, ...but.....
They DIDN'T really tell you the difference, particularly why the big price difference between Racing 4T and "normal" Mobile 1.

In fact fully synthetic oil is no longer fully synthetic (only in the US). Castrol and Mobil were involved in a court case where the court determined petroleum based oil (Severe Hydroprocessed /Hydrocracked - ultra refined mineral oil BUT still mineral oil) could be called fully synthetic.

Oils are divided into Groups by type. Most US "full synthetic" oils are now Group 3 containing more than 95% petroleum based oils. True synthetics are Group 4 or 5 (chemical Polyalphaolefin or Synthetic esters based), and of all the Mobil 1's, only Racing 4T is a true synthetic Group 4 oil . The tell tale giveaway is the price - Group 4's are MUCH more expensive than petroleum based "fully synthetic" oils and generally run in the $8-9 per quart range. Rotella T is also a group 3 petroleum based (non-synthetic) full synthetic.

Tom
 

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This is good info. Thanks. Pay attention if you think you are using REAL syn oil at a cheap price (relatively)-probably you are not!

Again , you pay for what you get.(or want)
 

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Thanks for the info, nplenzick, and please forgive my manners in the other thread for not welcoming you to the forum.

I will have to give the Mobil 20W50 "V-Twin" a try since they've quit making the 4T in a 50-weight (in the USA, don't know about elsewhere). My bike seems to prefer 50W oil. I have to travel a good ways to find Motul or else pay shipping to get it; I've always had an easier time finding Mobil 1 in my area.

What I've read since participating in your other thread agrees with what Mobil is telling you about their 15W50 automotive oil. They don't put the words "energy conserving" on the bottle because that weight of oil doesn't meet the API spec that would require them to include that language.
 

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They DIDN'T really tell you the difference, particularly why the big price difference between Racing 4T and "normal" Mobile 1.

In fact fully synthetic oil is no longer fully synthetic (only in the US). Castrol and Mobil were involved in a court case where the court determined petroleum based oil (Severe Hydroprocessed /Hydrocracked - ultra refined mineral oil BUT still mineral oil) could be called fully synthetic.

Oils are divided into Groups by type. Most US "full synthetic" oils are now Group 3 containing more than 95% petroleum based oils. True synthetics are Group 4 or 5 (chemical Polyalphaolefin or Synthetic esters based), and of all the Mobil 1's, only Racing 4T is a true synthetic Group 4 oil . The tell tale giveaway is the price - Group 4's are MUCH more expensive than petroleum based "fully synthetic" oils and generally run in the $8-9 per quart range. Rotella T is also a group 3 petroleum based (non-synthetic) full synthetic.

Tom

Exactly. Mobil1 Racing 4T is the only half decent oil that Mobil makes anymore.
 

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Is there any indication on the package to clarify this Group 3 or 4 business? I'd like to know which I'm buying...
Not that I know of ....... I'd guess Google and price will give you your answer. For the price I'd guess that, like Mobile 1 Racing 4T, their V-Twin is also a true Group 4/5 synthetic.

The funny thing is it was Mobil that took Castrol to court saying Castrol was using petroleum base and shouldn't be calling it full synthetic. When they lost, Mobil joined the Castrol bandwagon. They switched all but the racing and perhaps V-Twin Mobil 1's to the cheaper hydrocracked petroleum base and call it full synthetic. I think in Europe to advertise as "fully synthetic" it still has to be a Group 4/5 base.

Tom
 

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FWIW, I've used car 15w50 Mobil 1 in my Sprint on a semi-regular basis since 2003, from 3,000 miles to the current 56,000 miles.

No problems, and I'm changing the oil and filter every 6,000 miles like the manual recommends.

YMMV of course.
 

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I use Motul semisynth and change my oil and filter twice as often as the book says, every 5,000kms I change them both.

I do this with all my bikes i have done since I was in short pants:D

DaveM:cool:
 

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Wow whatdaya know, an oil thread where I learned something. Thanks fellas! So if regular old Mobile 1 "synthetic" isn't really synthetic, why does it still cost 3-4 times more than dinosaur oil?
 

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Marketing.

Ok, a show of hands: How many people have seen or heard of an oil-related failure in any motorcycle that was definitely caused by using the 'wrong' oil? Not because they didn't change it at the proper times, but because of their choice of oil. Anyone?

FWIW, I've used the automotive Mobil 1 15-50 for 15 years. First in my Evo HD FXRS, then my Y2K Sprint ST, and now my '03 ST. Bike runs fine, no oil use, and no problems. I change it every 5000 miles, just because it's an easy number to remember.
 

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Wow whatdaya know, an oil thread where I learned something. Thanks fellas! So if regular old Mobile 1 "synthetic" isn't really synthetic, why does it still cost 3-4 times more than dinosaur oil?
Here's how I understand it - hydro-cracking petro oil isn't as cheap as regular processing. For the court case everyone brought their "experts" in and the courts finding was as long as there was no demonstrable difference in performance Castrol could label their Group 3 petro oil "fully synthetic" (only in the US). Mobile decided if you can't beat them, join them:).

You'll notice the only point I was addressing was the difference in price and manufacturing costs - discussing which has better performance or whether the performance gain is worth the cost is a whole other kettle of fish.:eek:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

Tom
 
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