Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to replace the plastic reservoir with one of these.

Now, i'm not really mechanically minded, so please excuse my questions.

Is it much of a job? will it involve bleeding the brakes, etc? Just thinking it may be best to do it at a later stage when the brake fluid needs replacing.

Also, are there any compatability issues? does anyone know if these will be ok for the s3 with the stock Nissin calipers?

thanks
Jonty
 

· Registered
Joined
·
919 Posts
Piece of cake. Best to drape some towels over the throttle to catch any drips before starting. Just drain the old reservoir & remove it being careful to keep the hose end pointed up so you don't loose too much fluid. Plug in the new reservoir, bolt it down and fill with fresh fluid. There may be a bubble in the line which you can milk out with a little squeezing. As long as you don't let the bubble get all the way down to the master cylinder there is no need to bleed the brakes. Very good mod visually but of course zero performance increase.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
692 Posts
Yes, You will need to bleed the brakes, About 2 1/2 hours if your not a mechanic.

Plenty of threads on bleeding brakes, Its not that tough, Just messy if your not careful.

Best way to bleed is to hang the calipers upside down from the grips with safety wire so the bleed nipple is above the banjo and bleed from that position... Find a friend to help.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,181 Posts
I have exactly the same on the bike. No need to bleed if you follow the doctors instructions.
I slipped on stainless braid for a bit more bling (protection?)
Now the bad news. Don't overfill the Rizoma reservoir and make sure to screw the lid tightly or else fluid will leak out.
Also the rubber 'O' ring on the lid started to perish and crack within days. An easy and cheap enough replacement. Oh! And the fluid level window is useless.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
178 Posts
Also the rubber 'O' ring on the lid started to perish and crack within days. An easy and cheap enough replacement. Oh! And the fluid level window is useless.
Window is clear, however the casing is metal so there is no light flow to determine the level? I am guessing?

Avi8or, can you comment on the size, location of replacement? Size is close? Higher/Lower? Or adjustable enough it didnt matter?

Lastly is the O Ring in a groove in the cap/res or not at all?

"My bike is neeekid, the last thing I need is a tupperware container on the handlebars!" - S.Q.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
436 Posts
You guys can say what you want about the stock reservoir but the after market hasn't made a more functional unit yet. The plastic is lighter, can see the fluid level on the fly, don't leak and didnt cost extra. Function VS form for me on this one.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
I have the Rizoma reservoir for both the front & rear brakes.

There is no need to bleed them if you do it as previously described.

The front brake reservoir was leaking no matter how tight I made the cap.

I finally put some teflon tape on there and it's been perfect now.

JOHN
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,181 Posts
On 2006-12-06 14:12, Prestimp wrote:
Window is clear, however the casing is metal so there is no light flow to determine the level? I am guessing?

Avi8or, can you comment on the size, location of replacement? Size is close? Higher/Lower? Or adjustable enough it didnt matter?

Lastly is the O Ring in a groove in the cap/res or not at all?
In spite of what I said I'd still rather have the Rizoma. The stock tank looks cheap and ugly.
Another option to consider is a 5/8 brake master cylinder with integral tank. Kills two stones with one bird. Neat tank and 'solves' the mushy brake problem.

To answer your questions:

Yeah clear window but up to now I've never managed to see the level. Stock part much much better in tihs regard.

Location is same as stock but position is adjustable sideways, in and out or up or down if you bend the included supporting tab, but there is no need to. Tank is located pretty close to original as to not make a difference or require mods.

Tank slightly smaller than stock.

O ring is in a groove in the cap and its purpose is to provide a grip on the cap to tighten/loosen. There is a bellows rubber thingie in the kit which fits in the tank.

I suppose the slight leaking can be cured with teflon tape as suggested or a thin extra rubber washer in the tank fitted beneath the cap.
The machining and anodising is top notch.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top