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Discussion Starter #1
So I've got the pads off and all the right tools and materials, but I'm short a center stand... (Didn't expect to need one if only taking off the wheel & brake rotor) The tech manual doesn't show a way to remove just the brake rotor - it just points to the section for removing the entire swing arm assembly.

Point: Is there a better way than the way the manual is suggesting? Here's what it says:

1. Remove the silencer (exhaust, completed)
2. Raise and support the rear of the motorcycle under the frame or engine (only have rear Pitbull stand - hence my dilemma)
3. Remove rear wheel (completed)
4. Remove rear brake hose cover from upper chain guard, then remove upper chain guard.
5. Remove lower chain guard.
6. Release bolt securing the brake pipe clip to the right hand side of the swinging arm (small clip holding brake line to the swingarm)
7. Without disconnecting brake line, detach then support the rear brake caliper
8. Slacken the swinging arm / hub pinch bolt (vertical bolt at the end of the swingarm, clamping down on the axle). This is one area of concern - I'm thinking that if I did this while it's on a rear pitbull stand it could be an expensive/stupid/painful OOPS.
9. Use C spanner to turn the hub and slacken the drive chain.
10. De-stake then slacken the nut securing the final drive unit to the axle shaft. (Also an area of concern)
11. Remove the staked nut (discard), belleville washer and stepped washer from the axle shaft.
12. Pull the axle shaft through the h7ub to the right hand side such that the shaft clears the final drive assembly. Remove the final drive unit disconnecting the chain at the same time. (Would not need to remove final drive unit in my case.)

It goes on to removing the entire swingarm assembly, but all I need to get off is the stupid brake rotor. I can't access the bolts on the left side or re-install them later without removing the axle shaft, so far as I can see. My concern is that I need a center stand of sorts in order to do this part. Am I correct? I'm 99.9% sure that I am & won't proceed without confirmation that I'm wrong and it can be done. Right now, it's just taking up my garage. I can leave it there for however long I need to, though I'd prefer to ride it :D

I probably could use a center stand anyway... any suggestions? Where to go to get one in the Dallas area? :)
 

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I place a 3' length of 3/4" pipe under the frame just ahead of the passenger peg mounts and support each end of the pipe with jack stands.
Then you can remove the Pit Bull stand.
 

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How about this.

Lift bike with your stand and remove wheel.

Remove rear caliper out of the way.

Loosen eccentric locking bolt and tighten chain to expose rotor bolt at 3 o'clock.

Use ball hex Allen key and 6" adjustable spanner (Cresent) to hold rotor bolt. Use 12mm socket/ratchet to loosen nut on bolt.

Rotate axle to do all 4 bolts and lift rotor off the right side?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I've figured it out. I got a set of jack stands and a metal pipe, but stupid me didn't figure on jack stands being too short (I didn't see more than one set at Autozone...) Ferris' suggestion inspired me to look closer, & I found one area where I could use the allen wrench & socket wrench combo to get the bolts off one at a time.

So others may benefit, here's how it works:

In neutral & w/ bike on a stand, turn axle/rotor until the bolt lines up at ~4 o'clock as seen in the pic. You may need to work with it a bit, as there's only about 1/4 in of play where it will work. Using a strong allen wrench & 12mm socket wrench, remove bolts one at a time.


and yes, I have the brake caliper supported, not hanging by the brake line. I've got it hanging by two wires from the caliper mount holes. :)
 

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Great stuff Street Rat!

I was sure there would be an easier method, though my 05 is easier than yours. I had to replace my axle a couple of weeks ago and it turned out to be a rather simple task.

Don't forget to loctite those rotor bolts when re-fitting!
 

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I replaced my rotors a couple of times. Once you jack up the rear of the bike, remove the tire and the 2 brake caliper bolts. Than just remove one rotor bolt at a time, their is room to get at one. When all the bolts are out spine the rotor so it clears the mounting tabs on the hub and remove/install. You don't have to loosen the chain or remove the axle or anything. So you could just use your axle stand.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Nope. Jack stands I got were too short, so I got frustrated - then decided to attack the rotor at every possible angle with an allen wrench and ratchet :p Worked out great. Put the wheel back on and all is well. Tested it out and it works, no squealing etc. Did press pretty hard for 2-3 stops in order to make sure everything functioned, but hopefully that didn't hurt the bedding in process (new rotor and new brakepads).

Go ahead and do it, it's very easy if you make sure to be careful and not forget something or over/under torque anything. I've got a shop manual that helps a lot (the same one the shop techs use, I got it off some website. :D)

Now for the front brake pads and brake bleed all-around. Front pads still have plenty of material, but are squealing and annoying me.
 

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Can I just say, I am literally FURIOUS I didn't look on here this morning.

That would have been BEFORE I removed my rear wheel and caliper only to find I couldnt change the rota (I thought) and put it all back toghther again!!

I have now bought an Abbas pivot stand (needed for some other jobs as well) and could have done with knowing this earlier!!

Aggrrhh.

I will have another go at replacing my disc tomorrow then
 

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Ha ha this is funny as I tried to replace my rear brake rotor last night! :mad: Who designed this?? Well whoever it was deserves a kick up the arse! I came on here for a rant but found this thread instead.

First I tried something similar to post #11 but couldnt get my allen key in and ended up damaging the allen threads. Then I found the sweet spot underneath the same as post #6 and I managed to get the bolts off. I was lucky I didnt damage the threads too much and they came out ok.

Well I cant put them back in the way they are, so have ordered new bolts. Five quid each... :eek: I even looked around and Probolt do a version but not much cheaper.

So anyone removing their rear rotor, do so from underneath as in post #6 otherwise you could end up with a stripped allen head and no way to get the rotor off!

Wish I had read this thread first!
 

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Sometimes it's best just to look at it, and do it. Stupid manuals are designed with the person in mind that doesn't even know how to hold a wrench.
For most things on a bike....look at how it's put together....then take it apart. Put it back together again the same way it cam apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've tried that, I've also ended up with too many bolts/washers/screws/nuts left over after finishing. Then scratching my head wondering where they went. Manuals are useful for helping you remember what goes where :)
 

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Yeah +1 for reading the workshop manual! Mine had a gap where the procedure should've been for the rear rotor. Wonder why....

I love my Triumph but sometimes I can certainly tell its British! I have some work to do on the clutch and just found out to remove the clutch cover, I also have to remove the starter gear and the sprag cover to access a hidden bolt! I mean, really?? Character I think its generally described as :D
 

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Disc and pads replaced!

Hi All,

Following the tips on this thread I've just replaced my 2009 S3's rear disc and rear brake pads.

This might be useful to know, but the disc bolts (on mine at least) aren't hex head but in fact TORX / Star heads.
This makes them MUCH easier to remove and far less likely to ruin the bolt heads as TORX / Star bits are less likely to slip.
T-35 was the bit size I used.

Off for a short test ride, but all appeared fine on the Abba stand I used to lift the bike.

:D
 
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