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Discussion Starter #1
Some quick background into why I'm replacing both the R/R and the Stator.

Background
My 2006 Sprint ST has electrical gremlins of at least one variety. The ignition doesn't always try to turn the starter, and sometimes it fires but is missing the oomph to actually get the bike going, and sometimes it fires up before the ignition button is all the way down on the bars. The behavior is awesomely intermittent. Hot engine, hot weather, cold engine, cold weather... no distinguishable pattern thus far as to when it does whichever. Seemingly this was going on with the PO for a while because I was quick to notice a grinding noise from the starter itself due to being abused by these circumstances.

Late last season I replaced the starter because it was abused enough to need it anyway, though I suspect root cause was and remains the electrical situation.

This year when I went to fire up the bike it was 100% dead despite being on a trickle charger over the offseason. I found that the negative battery terminal was discolored and all the plastics surrounding it was melted... this while sitting still in a garage with the bike off and a reputable trickle charger attached. Still not sure how that happened, but my #1 suspect is some aluminum foil the PO had taped to the underside of the seat... I can only assume to act as a poor man's heat shield against the exhaust. My post-Holiday season ass must have moved the bike in the garage at some point and pressed that foil between the positive/negative terminals. Not sure, but open to other ideas about how something that's off gets shorted out to that degree. I haven't been riding much, and the same trickle charger has been keeping my battery topped up and easily firing the new starter for the little bit I've gotten on the road this year. So the cause doesn't appear to be the charger itself, but I'll grant it's not been trying to charge anything through -20 winter days which might stress things very differently.


Here and now
I think I might still have a short in either the clutch safety switch or the kickstand safety switch as once in a blue moon I'll push the start button and have absolutely nothing happen as if one of those are engaged. That's a different matter though, as keeping the bike up on a trickle charger has allowed easy starts all season provided the starter is allowed to actually engage. So add me to the echo of voices all over the forum that land on "yeah I dunno about the specifics, but these bikes really do love a full battery" I have a voltage meter on the bike so I keep an eye on what's happening with it while running.

The voltage meter I have installed only reads 12v in two cases:
1. The bike has literally just started off the trickle charger's overnight charge.
2. The RPM's are over 6k.

It never reads over 12v, and if I don't keep the RPM's up it walks as far south as 8v... which I barely even believe to be able to keep the bike running and think it's more likely a not so accurate measurement from my $10 meter. In any case, I don't see a circumstance in which either the R/R or the stator is not poop. I found DEcosse's excellent write-up on how to diagnose and only replace what turns out to be the issue, but I also saw lots of recommendations for Rick's replacement stator and the Shindengen SH847 R/R as worthy upgrades over OEM just for the sake of it. I'm not able to find too many weekends for motorcycle maintenance so I've gone ahead and ordered both, with a plan to follow the guide to diagnose to confirm which it was for my own curiosity, but then go ahead and replace both anyway.

I did some hunting and wasn't able to come up with any Sprint specific issues about replacing either. There's a few hints that relocating the R/R and maybe even needing a fabbed mounting for it might be necessary, but I've not managed to find a specific thread or how-to.

So, as I prepare to pull this bike apart armed with two brand new components as well as crimps, extra electrical wire, spare fuses, and a mile of heat shrink... I'm hoping to be able to replace anything I find that looks damaged and button it all back up in a day. I ask anybody who's performed these swaps on this gen of a Sprint to confirm that they did have to relocate or fab a bracket or something... just so I can be sure to have a plan before I get stumped by it with the bike in pieces.

Next
I'll take some photos as I go and post updates to maybe get a guide made up and added to the Maintenance Tips for anybody else doing either of these specific swaps on this gen Sprint.

I have a long history of loving 80's bikes that didn't have safety switches so assuming that problem survives what I do here, I'll likely fix those switches by entirely bypassing them and just be sure never to start the bike without the clutch engaged. This is the first bike I've owned that has had those protections... and apparently it's not going to have them for long lol.
 

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I would advise that you do not bypass safety devices but rather maintain/fix them. The clutch switch is a simple plunger that can become sticky over time and it's easily cleaned. If you feel the need to lube it - I don't - then use a good quality one that is less likely to gum up with time. I have never had an issue with the kick stand switch.

Replacing the stator is fairly straight forward, the gasket should be reusable if you're careful and you just need to have some RTV sealant on hand for where the stator wiring exits the CC side cover. I would recommend that you inline splice the stator to RR wiring as it tends to run hot when using spade type connectors.

I've not relocated the RR on my bike nor have I reconfigured the charge wiring and have not had any issues.
 

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Definitely do not bypass any of the safety systems.

You already found the good threads on the how-to. Be sure you use good quality, properly sized wires, and I also recommend nixing all connectors in the Stator-R/R-Battery wiring.

I'd say the entire job should take no more than half a day your first time. It's technically not difficult at all.

As far as relocating, Steve Ford had a thread a couple of years ago showing how he relocated the R/R to under the battery tray on his 1050. I mimicked his relocation and would recommend it as well. This moves the unit completely away from engine heat and gives it fresh air to cool it. You can make a mounting plate really easily.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok guys I'll leave the safety switches alone. Diagnosing that is not really on my shortlist at the moment so I didn't really mean to focus the thread on that. I'll definitely try just cleaning the plunger on the clutch though so thanks for that tip.


I'll chase down the thread on relocation the stator, thanks.

Somebody in another thread mentioned T2500676 was required to make the loom for the 06 Sprint straight up plug and play with the SH847 so I've also got that on order now. I'm honestly planning on seeing what I can do with whatever at the hardware store as far as a mounting plate, and worst case I have some stainless steel zip ties... But if anybody has a known plug and play bracket/extension that'd be swell.
 

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I'll definitely try just cleaning the plunger on the clutch (switch)
I don't know why, maybe because it's mounted on the underside of the perch where it's attachment is not obvious, but the clutch switch seems inexplicably complex to so many Triumph (and other make) owners. I reckon it is single handedly responsible for the WD40 company's profits as so many people recommend just spraying it with the stuff.
A half can is only just enough to leave a decent sized stain on your driveway or garage floor.:wink2:

It really is the simplest of switches. One push tab and it's off the perch. Then two tabs and it's apart whereupon it's innards are revealed for the rudimentary device it really is. Once apart you can clean the spring and the male and female contacts properly. Apply the lightest smear of grease, reassemble, clip back in place and get on with finding out what's really wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've looked pretty high and low and have not found a thread on stator relocation... a few people have relocated their R/R to under the battery box? Any pointers much appreciated.

I went ahead and ordered Jack's universal SH847 mounting bracket in an effort to save me an hour and/or resorting to zip ties. That brings my total kit to:

SH847
Triumph link lead to supposedly make the SH847 plug and play to the existing harness
Jack's universal SH847 mounting bracket
Rick's Stator

I have loads of spare 10 and 12 ga wire in stock for any necessary re-runs or extensions. Dialectric grease at the ready.

Anything else aside from champagne wishes and caviar dreams?
 

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The rotor is on the crankshaft and the stator bolted to the engine cover. Relocation nigh on impossible, hence the absence of a corresponding thread.

But then, you probably knew all that and were just winding us up?
 

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On the 1050ST I stuck it under the battery box with some spacers
For the 955s and 1050 GT I stuck it up by the left front fairing mounting bracket.
For both locations I solder the stator leads directly to the regulator leads to do away with one potential failure point.
All of mine are the SuperMosfet kits which use the Super Harness w/ 30A circuit breaker
http://www.roadstercycle.com/
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
But then, you probably knew all that and were just winding us up?
I'm not sure what kind of person winds up people on the internet by mixing up stator and R/R but I assure you I am not that person.

I misread - it was only the R/R (even earlier in the thread) that was suggested to be relocated. :)

Thank you for clarifying.

On the 1050ST I stuck it under the battery box with some spacers
Hope this helps.
Perfect, thank you!

Got some bummer news that the T2500676 is on backorder so it looks like this project is delayed at least a few weeks :/
 

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Not necessarily as you could replace that with the wiring kit from Roadstercycles and hardwire the stator in.
I think that would be a better option.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Found the part in fleabay and it is on it's way from the UK. Roadster cycle was my first stop, but he's got a notice that he's on vacation till 10/20 and his kit actually rang up as out of stock when I tried it.

Not sure if actually out or it was a glitch with the PayPal cart, but he's enjoying fun in the sun so I can't ask until hopefully we'll after my alternative arrangements are in my garage or on my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Recap for those that find this thread in the future.

This list:

SH847
Triumph link lead to supposedly make the SH847 plug and play to the existing harness
Jack's universal SH847 mounting bracket
Rick's Stator

Dialectric grease at the ready.
Is complete as the heavy hitters go. You'll also need a new gasket for the Stator cover (fortunately a local dealer had one in stock):
T1260009
You'll also want high temp RTV at the ready to complete the gasket where the cable enters the stator cover.

That's what it takes to have it 100% plug and play. No relocation or wire cutting necessary.

That said, relocation and running according to removing connections as advised in other threads is still recommended for the longevity of your parts and quality of install. The complete kits from Jack's Roadstercycle are still the easiest way to do that provided he's not on vacation when you're grabbing your parts ;)

The only thing I found is that the newbie penalty on rewiring the stator was high. There's minimal slack and a very particular way to route the cable, I've snapped a photo of how the cable routes with the cable clip in case anybody gets stuck on that in the future. Took me a couple hours to be sure I had it right. I could do it again in 5 minutes... in any case I was glad I took the photo before I undid it because I was for sure a bit confused on how to lay it all back in there. Attached here for reference.

Install for me is so far a success. 14+ at the battery and a rocksteady 12 off of it to the rest of the bike.
 

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Be aware that the Triumph link lead (Part # T2500676) uses the same Yazaki connector to connect the stator. This connector is prone to poor connection resulting in arcing. Resulting charging problems have been reported numerous times on these forums - usually associated with the OEM wiring.

In my case, I never experienced such problems with the OEM wiring but the same style connector suffered the same issue when I used the Triumph link lead to connect a Shindengen R/R. The link lead served a useful purpose as a quick, easy install prior to a road trip but a better solution is suggested by DEcosse in Post # 7 of his excellent Charging Diagnostics thread.

Triumph link lead - failed connection due to arcing caused by poor connection in Yazaki connector between stator and R/R
 
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