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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know if a replacement bolt kit is available for the 955i? My OEM bolts are starting to corrode a little and look like hell! Anodized black would look wicked! :hammer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dobie, did you say the replacements are on your 1050?...... Thanks mate, you're a hell of a guy, I'll even pay for shipping! :-D :-D :-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks DEcosse, just what I was looking for. Do you have any personal experience with this type of kit?
 

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Whatever you do, don't buy aluminum. I've got a set of black 'Tastynuts' bolts on my bike and one of them broke off as I was putting it in the case. Good thing I used a good amount of anti-seize because it would have taken drilling to get the bastard out otherwise. Get a set of titanium bolts from tastynuts or other race bolts places. I love my Ti caliper bolts and I'll eventually replace the engine bolts with Ti as well. They're much lighter than the stock slugs and much stronger.

[ This message was edited by: kuhlka on 2007-02-25 12:42 ]
 

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On 2007-02-25 12:41, kuhlka wrote:
Whatever you do, don't buy aluminum.
From ProBolts Marketing spiel:
Tensile strength is 0-560Mpa; which is stronger than mild steel. 60% lighter than steel and 40% lighter than Titanium. Corrosion resistance against saltwater, road film or mild acid. Replaces all side engine casing bolts. Kit includes: copper grease lubricant
There shouldn't be any issue with using aluminum. It wouldn't hurt to run a tap through each hole first anyway in case of any prior galvanic corrosion.
& of course should be torqed appropriately - only 9Nm for the engine covers (that's ~ 6.5 ft lb)
 

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On 2007-02-25 14:44, Speed3 wrote:
I got a nice SS engine bolt kit from www.jacklilley.com Still looking good. :-D
I prefer SS myself, too. I don't see the point of using weaker or more expensive materials than stock.

Also the TastyNuts/Pro Bolt titanium bolts I have ordered in the past have been of very low quality. Coarse machining finish, shorter than stock SS versions and so on.

[ This message was edited by: Martin_R on 2007-02-25 23:09 ]
 

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On 2007-02-25 16:08, DEcosse wrote:
On 2007-02-25 12:41, kuhlka wrote:
Whatever you do, don't buy aluminum.
From ProBolts Marketing spiel:
Tensile strength is 0-560Mpa; which is stronger than mild steel. 60% lighter than steel and 40% lighter than Titanium. Corrosion resistance against saltwater, road film or mild acid. Replaces all side engine casing bolts. Kit includes: copper grease lubricant
There shouldn't be any issue with using aluminum. It wouldn't hurt to run a tap through each hole first anyway in case of any prior galvanic corrosion.
& of course should be torqed appropriately - only 9Nm for the engine covers (that's ~ 6.5 ft lb)
I was looking through old threads and came across this one which I felt should be addressed further. Aluminum and steel don't play well with each other. It is a must to use anti-seize compound when using aluminum fasteners in steel parts, or vise-versa.
 
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