[GrayMitchell]

Whats the easiest way to remove the headers? I was checking it out and it looks like i have to remove a few parts before I can unbolt the right side header...anybody got a secret to doing this more easily? Thanks!

Also, as far as removing the blue, Blue Job works great, but it doesnt seem to have any effect on the yellow/gold. Whats the best way to go about removing the gold...Buffing wheel???

[ This message was edited by: GrayMitchell on 2007-01-30 21:48 ]

 

[rodburner]

I didn`t remove anything but the headers.12mm nuts at the ports,13mm at the x-over and a long allen wrench to remove the bolts under the pegs.I pushed down the brake pedal and pushed the allen in over the spring. PITA to re-install that one,but do-able..
Steve

 

[RedBird]

Steve,

I would guess that you have the record on the number of times for header pipe removal :-D

Larry

 

[5bassman]

I've had mine off 3 times in the last 3 days. I removed the clip holding the pin in the brake pedal which makes the removal of that bolt easier. But I'm getting pretty good at it!

 

[rodburner]

Larry,I think 5Bass has removed those lower bolts once more than me,but I`ve removed the header bolts over 20 times since Thanksgiving. :-D And you know what? I`m still using the original copper gasket with a smear of copper gasket sealer on it.Never has leaked even once. Was probably made in Thailand or Siam or whatever else you call a beautiful country with a 3000 year history. :-D

 

[sweatmachine]

I just ordered new header gaskets. I'm not to worried about them particularly, but I had to order all the other gaskets for the big bore kit and valve work, to the tune of $120+ bucks. Thanks bikebandit!

 

[evand]

1st step PB BLASTER OR LIQUID WRENCH LET IT SIT FOR 1 DAY. Alway let it soak for 1 day. Breaks things up less likely to snap something. Then once you remove it drive it down to you local podwer coat plating shop. Let them fix it so it never comes back.

[ This message was edited by: evand on 2007-02-01 01:50 ]

 

[5bassman]

Can Powder Coating take that kind of heat? I was thinking of having mine Jet Coated or Ceramic Coated. Right now I'm experimenting with BBQ paint and a light buff with 0000 Steel wool to give it a Satin finish. I heat em up today to see what happens!

[ This message was edited by: 5bassman on 2007-02-01 10:19 ]

 

[GrayMitchell]

Let us know how that works out Bassman! Not sure about the durability with the BBQ paint, well worth a try though.

 

[5bassman]

On 2007-02-01 09:10, GrayMitchell wrote:
Let us know how that works out Bassman! Not sure about the durability with the BBQ paint, well worth a try though.

Check out SCCTRIM Photo album. He said a touch up about once a year is all required.

 

[kliff]

On 2007-02-01 09:10, GrayMitchell wrote:
Let us know how that works out Bassman! Not sure about the durability with the BBQ paint, well worth a try though.

I've used it on VW headers before, and it holds up real well. Initial prep of the pipes is foremost, clean, oil free(wear rubber gloves) and a well burnished or blasted surface prep.

 

[evand]

powder coat is pretty tough I have used powder on exhaust for a gsxr and ran over 20k miles without problems, I just had it done to my project gs check the pics i posted in the general section

 

[Perkology]

I didn`t remove anything but the headers.12mm nuts at the ports,13mm at the x-over and a long allen wrench to remove the bolts under the pegs.I pushed down the brake pedal and pushed the allen in over the spring. PITA to re-install that one,but do-able..
Steve

I feel like this is going to sound rediluclous, and this thread is quite old, but my mechanic and I are stumped on something completely basic... we can't remove the bolt behind the foot brake pedal. As it is lossened, it backs into the exahaust bolt directly opposite/behined it. The issue is, there are still a few threads, but no more room to back it off any further in order to remove the assembly competley so we can go about replacing the headers. Hlep me, I feel dumb!

 

[Forchetto]

Remove sprocket cover, slacken the clamp bolt on the swing arm pivot, unscrew the bolts that hold the footrest/brake pedal outrigger bracket assembly, detach the hydraulic brake cylinder pushrod and draw the whole bracket off the swing arm pivot.

 

[Perkology]

Remove sprocket cover, slacken the clamp bolt on the swing arm pivot, unscrew the bolts that hold the footrest/brake pedal outrigger bracket assembly, detach the hydraulic brake cylinder pushrod and draw the whole bracket off the swing arm pivot.

Thank for the speedy reply Forchetto, always appreciated! My concern is the the outrigger bolts double as engine mounts - won't we need to support the engine and/or swingarm? And, as a side note, is this really normal protocol for removing the brake pedal ? We were thinking the outrigger on the right side could potentially be bent... the original owner did lay it down on that side...

 

[Forchetto]

The swing arm will still be fully supported by the engine. It rides inside a tunnel cast at the rear of the crankcase.

Removal of the outrigger is a normal procedure shown on Service manuals.

 

[Perkology]

Done and done. We went ahead and removed the two rear-most outrigger bolts (frame, not swingarm), and tilted the apparatus up enough to get in. We only needed an1/4 inch or so, and it does appear that there is in fact an unusual bend where there shoudn't be. Anway, thanks again for the reply and what I can only assume must seem an utter waster of time