JB, nice write up with diagrams and pictures, as long as the relays aren't rattling about vibration shouldn't be an issue after all we already have relays on our bikes, i like the fact that the exposed cables for the ignition are no longer exposed, it may seem a big project to remove tank and break into the loom, but if you approach it steady and think before doing it is quite straight forward in fact the hardest bit I found was removing the fuel connector under the tank to remove it, I'm running a basic alarm with remote start facility, again thanks to Ripper for all his input and help, your straight forward relay box is far more straight forward than my set up and easier to turn on and off, I have to press two buttons to get it to turn on and kill switch and a button to turn off lol, might just consider giving your remote relay a go.
Remote Relay Ignition
Hi to all you fellow Triumph modders. There have been a few posts recently regarding keyless ignition and problems with the O.E ignition switch, so here is a write up of my solution. Or rather Rippers solution.
Like many of you I “relocated “ my ignition switch to down on the right hand side of the frame. This was so I could fit different headlight brackets. My switch wouldn't even reach the new position, so I had to lengthen and re-route the wires. This gave me enough room to fit the switch the right side up. My switch was in good condition and wasnt giving me any issues, but I was fed up with all the crap my keys inevitably got covered in as I ride all year.
Then I saw Mr*Beaver's write up which I found very interesting and thought I might be able to do this. I wont bore, or make you laugh with that story of my attempt, so here is what I did:
This is straight forward and fairly easy to do compared with the RFID. This system is one small box with everything inside and all the wires coming out in one place straight to the loom connector. The RFID is quite a bit more work and is quite fiddly and needs an antenna located where it can read the tag at a very short range.
First you need something to fit all the electrics into, something like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-60...roject-Box-Enclosure-Hobby-Case-/162121608270
Mine measures 100x50x25mm but was comparatively quite expensive and is a tight squeeze.
Next is the control box which is a 12v single channel remote relay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-R...iver-433MHz-/232798493626?hash=item3633df1bba
Then two micro relays are needed. I used 30a ones with a built in diode
NOTE - When using relays with integral quenching diodes, be sure to connect the coil the right way around. Connecting the wrong way will cause the diode to conduct and will cause a short circuit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-12V-...ar-Bike-Van-/281766422580?hash=item419a966834
Wire gauge should be the same as the bike wiring, or near enough. 16 or 18 gauge should be fine.
I used what I had. If you really wanted to you could even use the same colour !!
I made all the connections with spade terminals and covered them with heat shrink. You will need 6.4mm and 4.8mm male. If you can you could solder instead.
This is the schematic, it covers all air cooled twin models.
![]()
Here is a visual aid. Note that this covers only carbed and EFI models with mechanical speedo. The bike harness wiring colours shown in the visual aid are for the carbed models. For EFI wire colours see the schematic (top half). For canbus models another visual aid is needed
![]()
Here is everything in the box for test fit:
![]()
When the relays and board had been arranged in the box everything was held down with foam number plate tape. Hopefully the foam would absorb some vibration ?. I nearly forgot the grommet to go in the hole for the wires.
Box ready to seal up
![]()
The next issue was how to connect to the loom. I used an ordinary 6 way spade connector but it would probably be better to use something like a Deutsch connector. That's a project for later.
This picture shows wires every where. LOL !!
![]()
And everything done:
![]()
The box is stuck to the frame with the same double sided number plate tape, cable tied for extra piece of mind, and some aluminium reinforced heat resistant tape. You could also use Velcro or stick a plastic strip to the box with mounting holes. There is plenty of choice out there.
And thats it.......
Some further thoughts.
@Ripper suggested the best position for the box was under the seat by the battery, however I have the factory alarm in that perfect spot which is why mine is under the tank. As soon as the alarm gives me problems its going and the box will go in its place.
If you decide not to remove the battery when messing about with wiring have some fuses handy just in case and check them for continuity. Dont rely on a visual check. It will save loads of time and a massive headache. Don't ask how I know ok?
The operating range of mine is about 30ft which is not bad, but maybe get closer first !!
The operating fob is pretty naff, however I ordered several different units and they came with different fobs and I chose a better looking one.
You did remember to pair a few extra fobs before sealing the box didn't you ?
I used the wire I had so ignore my choice of colour.
Finally a huge thank you to @Ripper for all his help and advice and rather excellent schematics.
Go on, give it a go
Like many of you I “relocated “ my ignition switch to down on the right hand side of the frame. This was so I could fit different headlight brackets. My switch wouldn't even reach the new position, so I had to lengthen and re-route the wires. This gave me enough room to fit the switch the right side up. My switch was in good condition and wasnt giving me any issues, but I was fed up with all the crap my keys inevitably got covered in as I ride all year.
Then I saw Mr*Beaver's write up which I found very interesting and thought I might be able to do this. I wont bore, or make you laugh with that story of my attempt, so here is what I did:
This is straight forward and fairly easy to do compared with the RFID. This system is one small box with everything inside and all the wires coming out in one place straight to the loom connector. The RFID is quite a bit more work and is quite fiddly and needs an antenna located where it can read the tag at a very short range.
First you need something to fit all the electrics into, something like this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-60...roject-Box-Enclosure-Hobby-Case-/162121608270
Mine measures 100x50x25mm but was comparatively quite expensive and is a tight squeeze.
Next is the control box which is a 12v single channel remote relay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-R...iver-433MHz-/232798493626?hash=item3633df1bba
Then two micro relays are needed. I used 30a ones with a built in diode
NOTE - When using relays with integral quenching diodes, be sure to connect the coil the right way around. Connecting the wrong way will cause the diode to conduct and will cause a short circuit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-12V-...ar-Bike-Van-/281766422580?hash=item419a966834
Wire gauge should be the same as the bike wiring, or near enough. 16 or 18 gauge should be fine.
I used what I had. If you really wanted to you could even use the same colour !!
I made all the connections with spade terminals and covered them with heat shrink. You will need 6.4mm and 4.8mm male. If you can you could solder instead.
This is the schematic, it covers all air cooled twin models.
Here is a visual aid. Note that this covers only carbed and EFI models with mechanical speedo. The bike harness wiring colours shown in the visual aid are for the carbed models. For EFI wire colours see the schematic (top half). For canbus models another visual aid is needed
Here is everything in the box for test fit:
When the relays and board had been arranged in the box everything was held down with foam number plate tape. Hopefully the foam would absorb some vibration ?. I nearly forgot the grommet to go in the hole for the wires.
Box ready to seal up
The next issue was how to connect to the loom. I used an ordinary 6 way spade connector but it would probably be better to use something like a Deutsch connector. That's a project for later.
This picture shows wires every where. LOL !!
And everything done:
The box is stuck to the frame with the same double sided number plate tape, cable tied for extra piece of mind, and some aluminium reinforced heat resistant tape. You could also use Velcro or stick a plastic strip to the box with mounting holes. There is plenty of choice out there.
And thats it.......
Some further thoughts.
@Ripper suggested the best position for the box was under the seat by the battery, however I have the factory alarm in that perfect spot which is why mine is under the tank. As soon as the alarm gives me problems its going and the box will go in its place.
If you decide not to remove the battery when messing about with wiring have some fuses handy just in case and check them for continuity. Dont rely on a visual check. It will save loads of time and a massive headache. Don't ask how I know ok?
The operating range of mine is about 30ft which is not bad, but maybe get closer first !!
The operating fob is pretty naff, however I ordered several different units and they came with different fobs and I chose a better looking one.
You did remember to pair a few extra fobs before sealing the box didn't you ?
I used the wire I had so ignore my choice of colour.
Finally a huge thank you to @Ripper for all his help and advice and rather excellent schematics.
Go on, give it a go
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1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Excellent write up and pics. Had my Sprint ST ignition totalled in an attempted theft a few weeks back so rather than fork out £140 for an OEM ign switch which is very insecure I looked around the rat forums for a better (and far cheaper as it turns out) solution. I have`nt posted pics because I copied your design and components 100%. The only difference is that the Sprint needs 3 relays which all fit in the same project box as yours. Many thanks to @Ripper for the schematic and guidance and to you @Jonnys Bonnie for the informative post that made this modification painless even for an electrics noob like me. Psssst I have`nt worked on bike electrics since the early 80`s when I had a 1953 Norton ES2 (Joe Lucas "The Prince of Darkness" electrics)
Guidelines and schematic courtesy of @Ripper:
The relays you use should be at least 25 amp and have integrated
quenching diodes. If your relays don't have diodes you will need to wire
one 1N4007 diode (available on fleabay) across pins 85 and 86 of the top
relay in my schematic, and another one across pins 85 and 86 of the
middle relay (the + end of the diode goes to pin 86)
The remote relay will draw a tiny current
even when the bike is switched off because it has to be ready for
whenever you press the button on the fob.
Guidelines and schematic courtesy of @Ripper:
The relays you use should be at least 25 amp and have integrated
quenching diodes. If your relays don't have diodes you will need to wire
one 1N4007 diode (available on fleabay) across pins 85 and 86 of the top
relay in my schematic, and another one across pins 85 and 86 of the
middle relay (the + end of the diode goes to pin 86)
The remote relay will draw a tiny current
even when the bike is switched off because it has to be ready for
whenever you press the button on the fob.
Attachments
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
