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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got around to upgrading my rectifier this weekend. I used an FH012AA normally found on a Yamaha something-or-other. If you do a search on the part number, one of the first results is a TriumphRat post in the Daytona forum. Lots of detailed info there. I bought the rectifier from a salvage outfit on eBay for $50. New, they can be over $200.

So let's see if it works. I pulled the tank off and cut the wires to the old rectifier (I guess I was going on faith here).

Voltage at 1500+ RPM:

Good enough for me. Idle is around 13v. The stock rectifier puts out little or nothing at idle.

I had already had to re-route the wiring for the rectifier when I installed a different headlight bucket (the big rectifier connector wouldn't fit through the hole in the bottom of the bucket). I just tucked it up under the tank. So I guess I might as well move the rectifier while I'm at it. I really couldn't find a good spot so I put it on top of the battery.


This works for two reasons:
- I have installed a 14 series battery instead of the stock 12. It has the same width and length, but its shorter. Without the rectifier, the battery strap barely touches the new battery.
- The new rectifier doesn't get hot like the old one. I went for a ride after I installed it (97°F here today). When I got back to the house, I pulled the seat and put my hand on the rectifier. It was warm, but I could easily leave my hand on it.

If I ever remove the airbox, I'll find a new place for it. Maybe on the front of the battery box.

I also put the DVM on it to see what I got at idle.


With the stock rectifier, I measured 12.5 volts at idle (with everything off, I measured 12.7 on the battery).

So, I declare that this was a successful mod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
But what do I do about that blank bracket where the old rectifier was mounted?


Ducati horns!
 

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Now then not being exceptionally electrically minded, how in the heavens could you get the dual horn setup working without frying the wiring with the resistance factor? I've been trying to work this one out myself and haven't found a solution. I've tried to wire direct, in series and all it does is cause one of the horns to heat up literally.

Any suggestions or advice how to do it correctly?

Cheers

Jeff:motorbike2:
 

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Mmmm..I'm liking those horns - they're so horny! Hornish? Hornable? Yeah, a dual blast of "Hang the Fu*k Up And Drive!" :D
 

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Rectifier

NICE JOB!!!!! Real clean. My only worry would be how hot it would get in the hot summer sun in Fl sitting @ a traffic jam? No problem- ++1 on it!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now then not being exceptionally electrically minded, how in the heavens could you get the dual horn setup working without frying the wiring with the resistance factor? I've been trying to work this one out myself and haven't found a solution. I've tried to wire direct, in series and all it does is cause one of the horns to heat up literally.

Any suggestions or advice how to do it correctly?

Cheers

Jeff:motorbike2:
Geez, I don't know. I just plugged them in and they work. They're connected in parallel (came with a wire harness).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
NICE JOB!!!!! Real clean. My only worry would be how hot it would get in the hot summer sun in Fl sitting @ a traffic jam? No problem- ++1 on it!!!
Like I said above, it was 97°F here yesterday when I tried it out. No problems. A surprising amount of air flows under the front of the seat, too. I'll keep checking it as summer approaches and I take longer rides.
 

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Nice work.how high will the voltage go up before the regulator cuts it back at higher rpms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nice work.how high will the voltage go up before the regulator cuts it back at higher rpms?
The voltage never goes above 14 volts. It only goes below because my idle is low (maybe 850 or so). At about 1200 (I'm guessing), it hits 14v and stays there.
 

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thats cool good idea .just wondered if it would go to high good that it does not .To high will fry a battery in hot weather real quick.
 

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Voltage at 1500+ RPM:


Good enough for me. Idle is around 13v. .
Nice job Pokeyjoe. I didn't recognize this applied to the modern twins also.

Question about how you wired the output?
It's not clear from your post.

If you wire it directly to the battery as shown in this thread, you should pick up some additional voltage - using a better grade of wire will also result in lower losses.
It may be that the twin's stator produces less voltage at idle of course, but on the triples (and my TL) I get over 14V, even at idle and it peaks at about 14.5V.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Question about how you wired the output?
It's not clear from your post.
I wired it to the existing harness. I may wire it direct in the future, but the existing harness already had the 30 amp fuse in it. If I can find connectors with accommodations for the extra leads (and a fuse), I'll plan it for later on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice job Pokeyjoe. I didn't recognize this applied to the modern twins also.
After some research, I discovered that it applies to 90%+ of the bikes out there - no matter what the brand. Its pathetic, really.
 

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After some research, I discovered that it applies to 90%+ of the bikes out there - no matter what the brand. Its pathetic, really.
I recognize it applies to pretty much any three phase charging system with discreet Regulator/Rectifier
(Actually my sticky thread even says that)

What I was ignorant of (apologies!) was that the late model Triumph Twins had a three phase system!
My last Triumph twin had a Zener diode I believe!!!! :p


...If I can find connectors with accommodations for the extra leads (and a fuse), I'll plan it for later on.
**** I actually have found a source for the connectors for the FH012 - stay tuned, more news on that to come in the reference thread.****

Wiring to the battery actually also encompasses this mod rolled into it.
The two advantages are that you have less voltage drop than through the factory wiring and that the R/R is actually sensing the direct battery voltage, which helps with regulation.

You will improve your efficiency even further by using a bigger gauge (smaller number) wire i.e. 12 ga minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK, I bought an inline fuse with 12 ga pigtails and a few feet of 12 ga wire. With the rectifier sitting on the battery, I was able to cut half the pigtails off. I'll just cut the wires in the harness running to the fusebox for now. I'll hook it up tomorrow and see if I gain anything.
 
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