Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Used the search option but only 2 threads will limited details available.
Current set up
05 Thruxton - Lithium-ion battery (Antigravity 8), LEDs throughout old wire harness removed and rewired except for R/R and stator.
Current discussing this with a very helpful vender, roadstercycle.com and am close to pulling the trigger and going with the SH847. Regarding the rewire, was planning to run the 3 stator wires from the R/R plug and inline soldering to the existing stator wiring to eliminate what would be a second connector. Then the +ve wire via from the R/R connector via a 30a inline fuse and earth to -ve terminal on battery.
Am I on the right track with this, or has anyone else tried similar, any input greatly appreciated, thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,459 Posts
When I changed over to the FH020AA R/R regulator (same wire ends as the SH847) from roadster cycle, I relocated it to under the swing arm, with fabricated bracket. If you get the Triumph #T2500675 wiring harness adapter, about $10.00 US, it will plug into the alt wiring at the right front of the seat. You will loose the carb heaters if you do this, it bypasses them. Cut off the 4 wire battery connector and connect the neg to neg battery and add two 25 amp fuses parallel to the + cables to the battery or get the MAXI fuse or circuit braker from Roadster cycle. Also there is room under the seat. If you chose to mount it up front it is not plug and play but I would still suggest you look at the T2500675 harness to build from.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
When I changed over to the FH020AA R/R regulator (same wire ends as the SH847) from roadster cycle, I relocated it to under the swing arm, with fabricated bracket. If you get the Triumph #T2500675 wiring harness adapter, about $10.00 US, it will plug into the alt wiring at the right front of the seat. You will loose the carb heaters if you do this, it bypasses them. Cut off the 4 wire battery connector and connect the neg to neg battery and add two 25 amp fuses parallel to the + cables to the battery or get the MAXI fuse or circuit braker from Roadster cycle. Also there is room under the seat. If you chose to mount it up front it is not plug and play but I would still suggest you look at the T2500675 harness to build from.
Yeah they are big in size and my location preference is back on the frame (old horn spot) but I did not consider under the swingarm, I ll think about that.
Ive rewired the bike (with expert guidance from H3CT1C) so that allows me to bypass the existing connectors if the new cables are long enough and also already eliminated the carby heaters.
Starting to consider more smaller options as the 14_009H (Hot Shot from Ricks Electrics) has been discussed here.
Thanks for the reply
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,500 Posts
I am a huge advocate for the SH847 - probably the first person on the planet to install one on a bike other than the OEM DL1000A.

But honestly, for a Twin I think it is way overkill - Stators failures are EXTREMELY rare on the twins, so don't think it is really necessary.
And if you really want Series, consider an SH775 which should be excellent for that application.
Or simply go with a smaller MOSFET - particularly an FH008 (Mid 'Naughties Honda 600/1000) which you can easily relocate to a location that does not require serious airflow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I am a huge advocate for the SH847 - probably the first person on the planet to install one on a bike other than the OEM DL1000A.

But honestly, for a Twin I think it is way overkill - Stators failures are EXTREMELY rare on the twins, so don't think it is really necessary.
And if you really want Series, consider an SH775 which should be excellent for that application.
Or simply go with a smaller MOSFET - particularly an FH008 (Mid 'Naughties Honda 600/1000) which you can easily relocate to a location that does not require serious airflow.
Thanks for the reply. I did read your thread on the 847, thats where I was heading until I seen the size of the unit.
From the google images, the FH008 looks more the size I am after, But is this still suitable with the modifications (Lithium ion and LEDs throughout) and already have the wiring altered with a 30a inline fuse back to +ve and dedicated earth.
Still will leave it mounted up front on frame as I kind of like the look as I had the OEM gloss back with filed fins.
Thanks
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,500 Posts
Yes, I'm sure it will work really well for your application
The Lithium doesn't make a lot of difference - in your case you are actually reducing the bike's load (i.e. the supplied current to the bike), so the Regulator will actually shunt a bit more than it would with std incandescents. But that unit should still be just fine.

If you can find one, get the 06-07 Honda 1000 one essentially same device as the 600, but it only has a single plus and minus output vs the 600's which have 2 of each - much easier to integrate the 1000
Of course you need to install the appropriate connectors
(Just be careful of knock-offs)

Here's a few in US in decent shape at decent prices

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-2007-Honda-Cbr1000rr-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator-31600-mel-a21/264343331407?fits=Model:CBR1000RR&hash=item3d8c17224f:g:~5cAAOSwCr1c8B4G

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-2007-HONDA-CBR1000RR-RECTIFIER-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-WITH-BRACKET-31600-MEL-A21/123787705322?fits=Model:CBR1000RR&hash=item1cd2527bea:g:xegAAOSwWM1c8SqQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/04-07-HONDA-CBR1000RR-CBR-1000-RECTIFIER-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-OEM-05-06-0005/254231725179?epid=1322984934&hash=item3b3164447b:g:C8AAAOSwxzBc2yNs

If you want to buy new - I haven't personally used Rick's HotShot Regulators but they seem to get good reviews - certainly their customer service is fabulous and their stators are the best after-market available. On the subject of Customer Service, if you ask, I bet they would put whatever connector(s) you want on there for you.
That part would appear to be a 10-159 for the Honda - their specified replacement for the Triumph is actually a different model.
(Obviously the Honda is a already an OEM MOSFET, while the Triumph is replacing an OEM SCR module, so not a direct 'type' replacement)
You can ask them how their specs compare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Many thanks, actually getting a tad confused on how far ($$$) I needed to go with this, so your advise is greatly appreciated.
I contacted Ricks regarding the 10-004H and their reply was “The 10-004H is not compatible with a Lith Ion type battery. I am checking to see if we can build one for you”. I questioned that as there’s plenty of lithium/led bikes out there and members here also have this unit. I’ll follow up again.
Re the FH008, there are a few different model numbers AB, EJ, EC, ED and EE and the links highlight the EE. It suits all my needs and I’ll source a 5 pin connector for upfront and maybe consider cutting out the rear plug. Run 3x12 gauge all the way, as my new wiring is contained in a split loom weave type wrap that’s easy to access.
I’ll contact Ricks again and a local shop for the FH-008EE and compare.
Again thanks for the assistance.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,500 Posts
.... The 10-004H is not compatible with a Lith Ion type battery. I am checking to see if we can build one for you[/COLOR][/I]”. I questioned that as there’s plenty of lithium/led bikes out there and members here also have this unit. ...
The good news is they are trying to look out for you and even offering to build something custom (which I think means just changing out the connector to OEM and you may not necessarily want that anyway! :D)

Here is what Rick's say about their Lithium-Compatible Regulators:
(I just happened to pick one that was specifically intended for their 'Lithium' application - in this case Ducati, but that is inconsequential)
Rick's Motorsport Electrics now offers a Brand New Lithium Ion Compatible Rectifier-Regulator that is designed with a lower voltage set point to work with lithium ion batteries. Rick's part #14-008 is a direct plug in for compatible Ducati Street Bike Applications. *Please make sure to use our Year/Make/Model part search before ordering. **This rec-reg is not for use with standard lead acid batteries. The voltage set point is 14V +/- .2. Please contact the manufacturer of your Lithium Ion Battery to ensure our product has the correct set point for their product. ***Rick's Motorsport Electrics
Here is what Shorai says about their battery .......
Will a Shorai battery work in my vehicle?
A. The short answer is yes! Shorai batteries are an easy drop-in replacement upgrade. Your vehicle charging system should be working within standard spec (generally that means charging at 13.6-14.4 volts when running), and please use our Battery Finder to select the correct battery for your vehicle. Call us for a recommendation if you don't see your vehicle listed or if you have a custom built motorcycle.
I think Rick's are perhaps offering a 'catch-all' safety net here - it really depends on the chemistry that your Lithium (sic) battery is using.
That's not a criticism of them at all - they are being cautious in their customers' best interests. But please note there are many different types of Lithium ION chemistry.

I have a Shorai which is Lithium IRON Phosphate (note the 'R') and as you see they don't even have a specification for max voltage per se but offer that a generating system with 13.6 to 14.4 is a standard operating range (but not exactly a spec in those terms)
My bike runs an SH847 and it is running at 14.5V even with both (incandescent) lights on (or off for that matter)
Honestly, that is probably above what other many regulators will run at, more likely in the 14.2 range, which in itself is excellent.

I would say, research website of the manufacturer of your battery and see what they say about the max charging voltage that can be applied - you might even send them a question and ask specifically if your charging system is OK for their battery. And indeed per their quote above, you will see that Rick's is actually advocating the same advice.
Most battery manufacturers are more concerned with the use of bench chargers, which can have de-sulphation modes that send the voltage MUCH higher in attempt to break it down.
But the bigger guys recognize there are many different (bike) applications and try to produce a produce a product that is going to be robust enough to work with the majority of charging systems without damaging them. 'Lithium' batteries for Powersport applications have come a LONG way since the early Lithium Poly DIY clusters!
Recognize that Rick's provides caution against using their 'Lithium' Regulator with Lead-Acid batteries - but I haven't come across any Battery Manufacturers who have said "you should not use your bike's standard equipment and should change your bike's Regulator for one with a lower regulation point" :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
From their Website

What is the range of voltage for the batteries?

The Antigravity Battery normal voltage is 13.2v. The battery will read up to 14.7V immediately after charging. The normal operating range will read between 13.3-14.5V. After a few hours it will self balance to the 13.3-7 range which is its normal state of charge. The maximum voltage the battery should be exposed to is 14.7V. On the lower end of the voltage range the battery should be put on a charger if the battery voltage gets drops below the 12.5V range while sitting. The voltage should not be allowed to drop below 11V while at rest. Permanent damage will occur at below 11 volts.

Just being cautious on this so when I report back others may find this useful if they have the same set up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
974 Posts
I have a 2010 bonneville T100, and have been using the Shindengen SH775 reg/rec with the furukawa connector from my stator to the r/r .
the + and - from the r/r is wired through a furukawa connector into the o/e bonneville loom to the fuse box.
my reason for wiring into the oe triumph loom was after reading on here about the dramatic charging improvement many had found by using the better r/r and wiring direct to the battery, i wanted to err on the safe side and try and reduce slightly the max voltage that could be sent to the Shorai lithium battery i'm using.

with this set up it gives me a charging voltage of 13.8v at idle and 14.4v at 3000rpm, i have been using a Shorai lithium battery for a year now with no problems (but this could be because as Decosse says, the Shorai is less sensitive to charging voltage).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
156 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I suppose Im a bit limited as my bike is not 100% complete at this stage. Ill reconnect a fuel supply system over the weekend and see what charging numbers I have.

Same website
Do I need a special Charging System on the Motorcycle or Car with a Lithium Battery ?
Our lithium batteries will operate perfectly fine with the stock charging system in most motorcycles, powersports vehicles and automobiles. Where the problem can occur is when charging the battery with a standalone charger. Additionally if you have an aftermarket charging system on your vehicle, note that we cannot warranty the battery for use with aftermarket charging systems due to the fact that we do not test with these and some of these are not regulated as strictly as a stock/standard system found in a motorcycle, powersports vehicle or automobile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,300 Posts
Fitted a Shorai (18ah model) in feb 2012 and been using a mosfet reg from a zx6 Kawasaki. That reg charges the battery up to 14.7 v. Never had a problem, cells never been balanced, just fitted the battery and rode.

Last week it did take a few pushes of the button to get the old girl fired up but it was -3 thats C if it was f I'd be going nowhere. Figure if it dies now I got my moneys worth.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dazzzz88
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top