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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone! I recently purchased an '04 Daytona 955i, I love the bike and would like to give it a tune-up.

This being my first bike I would like to know exactly what is involved in a tune-up for a motorcycle and which plugs and oil you all would recommend. The bike already has a K&N air filter which I have a recharge kit for and a different exhaust (not sure which one ). She idles rough and is running rich, meaning I can smell the fuel from the exhaust. Will those flow modifications effect the Air/Fuel ratio for the bike or will the bikes computer automatically adjust for it? Not sure if I just need a tune up or if I should invest in a Power Commander or something to tune it as well. But first thing is to get it a tune-up and see.

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
 

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Hello everyone! I recently purchased an '04 Daytona 955i, I love the bike and would like to give it a tune-up.

This being my first bike I would like to know exactly what is involved in a tune-up for a motorcycle and which plugs and oil you all would recommend. The bike already has a K&N air filter which I have a recharge kit for and a different exhaust (not sure which one ). She idles rough and is running rich, meaning I can smell the fuel from the exhaust. Will those flow modifications effect the Air/Fuel ratio for the bike or will the bikes computer automatically adjust for it? Not sure if I just need a tune up or if I should invest in a Power Commander or something to tune it as well. But first thing is to get it a tune-up and see.

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks in advance!
tune up? Modern vehicles dont require tune ups per say. You did not state how many miles it has. First thing I would do is change the oil and filter. 10/40 100% Synthetic 4T motorcycle oil. I run Repsol Syntetico in mine. Plugs would be next, but they are a bear to get to in these bikes. So dependent on the mileage??? Then if you do plugs i would cleane and recharge the K & N (they should be cleaned and recharged every 15k miles.) As for running rough and rich it all depends. These bikes are a little rougher at idle than japanese fours etc. They also seem to be a little rich at startup and warm up. also check the chain and lube it. Dont know the mileage so I cant say if the chain and sprockets need replacing.
Get it all done and enjoy!
 

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I'm sorry I forgot, the bike has 2,800 miles on it. Thank you for your response so far :)

Is this the oil you recommend?
OK! No need for anything but an good oil change! Use either an original Triumph or K&N oil filter. Oil? There are plenty of really good motorcycle oils out there - its all a matter of preference. Like I said I run Repsol Syntetico 10/40.
 

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As for running rich, you can always check with your triumph dealer. They can retune the computer pretty easy which may help. Mine does not run near as rich and the mid range was better after the retune.

Not sure if tuneboy worked on the 955i. I know it works on more recent models, but that would allow some adjustability.
 

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activeseven, Do you know if it has a PCIII or a custom tune? If no PCIII I'd have the Triumph dealer load TOR (Triumph Off Road) tune to match the can. They're fairly limited, but should get close. This should take care of the over rich condition. If it has a PCIII insure the OEM base tune is loaded.

You may need to change/clean the plugs if they're fouled after the TOR tune is loaded and there's no noticeable improvement. Otherwise change the oil and filter. Do you have the owner's manual?

Brad
 

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With only 2,800 miles on it, it shouldn't need much. As said before, change the oil and filter. I recommend Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil. The oil viscosity is going to depend on your climate. If you are in a hotter region (approx 86F+), 15W50 would be the way to go. If you are in a mild or cold region (approx 85F-), 10W30 is good. I use 10W30 (65F average). Although it is a debated subject, imho, there is no need to spend any more money for or time finding an oddball viscosity like 10W40; Mobil 1 synthetic can be used in motorcycles with no clutch problems. You'll need approx 3.2 Liters with an oil and filter change

The same goes with filters. I recommend Purolator Pure One #PL14610 or Fram #PH7317. They are 3/4 inch longer than a Triumph filter, allowing for more filtering, and the filter material is just as good. They cost around $6, which is half of what Triumph or K&N want. Plus, you can find them in just about any parts house.

Adding to what others have said: lube the chain and check/adjust the slack, check the tire air pressure and the rubber condition, check the master cylinder fluid levels, and check the front and rear brake pad wear (probably okay, but good to check).

It's not abnormal to smell fuel from the exhaust while the engine is cold due to the richer Fuel/Air ratio. Take a look in the mirrors next time you slam on the throttle when the engine is hot. If you see a puff of black smoke, the engine could either be carboned up from not being flogged enough, or it is running very rich. The best way to tell is to see the plugs after flogging the engine on a nice ride, but if the muffler is aftermarket it would be good to have the fuel map identified and possibly changed. A lot of this has already been said, but the other members' advice is sound stuff.
 

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activeseven, Do you know if it has a PCIII or a custom tune? If no PCIII I'd have the Triumph dealer load TOR (Triumph Off Road) tune to match the can. They're fairly limited, but should get close. This should take care of the over rich condition. If it has a PCIII insure the OEM base tune is loaded.

You may need to change/clean the plugs if they're fouled after the TOR tune is loaded and there's no noticeable improvement. Otherwise change the oil and filter. Do you have the owner's manual?

Brad
Thanks Brad. It was the TOR tune I had loaded on my 2002 with the Triumph Carbon Fiber can. I still get the occasional pop from the exhaust when slowing down, but it is a great tune and gets you close.
 

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As for running rich, you can always check with your triumph dealer. They can retune the computer pretty easy which may help. Mine does not run near as rich and the mid range was better after the retune.

Not sure if tuneboy worked on the 955i. I know it works on more recent models, but that would allow some adjustability.
Tuneboy works on all Fuel injected Triumphs.
 

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With only 2,800 miles on it, it shouldn't need much. As said before, change the oil and filter. I recommend Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil. The oil viscosity is going to depend on your climate. If you are in a hotter region (approx 86F+), 20W50 would be the way to go. If you are in a mild or cold region (approx 85F-), 10W30 is good. I use 10W30 (65F average). Although it is a debated subject, imho, there is no need to spend any more money for or time finding an oddball viscosity like 10W40 or 15W50; Mobil 1 synthetic can be used in motorcycles with no clutch problems. You'll need approx 3.2 Liters with an oil and filter change

The same goes with filters. I recommend Purolator Pure One #PL14610 or Fram #PH7317. They are 3/4 inch longer than a Triumph filter, allowing for more filtering, and the filter material is just as good. They cost around $6, which is half of what Triumph or K&N want. Plus, you can find them in just about any parts house.

Adding to what others have said: lube the chain and check/adjust the slack, check the tire air pressure and the rubber condition, check the master cylinder fluid levels, and check the front and rear brake pad wear (probably okay, but good to check).

It's not abnormal to smell fuel from the exhaust while the engine is cold due to the richer Fuel/Air ratio. Take a look in the mirrors next time you slam on the throttle when the engine is hot. If you see a puff of black smoke, the engine could either be carboned up from not being flogged enough, or it is running very rich. The best way to tell is to see the plugs after flogging the engine on a nice ride, but if the muffler is aftermarket it would be good to have the fuel map identified and possibly changed. A lot of this has already been said, but the other members' advice is sound stuff.
10-40 odd ball viscosity?? Its available at every motorcycle shop ive been to? i buy mine at Cycle Gear. I wouldnt run 20w50 at all, 15w50 would be fine if you live in Las Vegas and also Triumph recommends it. Back in the day it was recommended to use in worn motors. 20w50 can be too viscouse to run through oil passages and or oil jets that spray oil on piston skirts etc. Synthetic withstands higher temps than conventional oils.

This is from the 2002 955i manual.(this is the same requirement in all 955 Daytonas 98 - 07)

"Semi or fully synthetic 10W/40 or 15W50 motorcycle engine oil which meets specification API SH (or higher) and JASO MA, such as Mobil1 Racing 4T.

Your Triumph Motorcycle is a quality engineered product which has been carefully built and tested to exacting standards. Triumph Motorcycles are keen to ensure that you enjoy optimum performance from your machine and with this objective in mind have tested many of the engine lubricants currently available to the limits of their performance.

CAUTION: Triumph high performance fuel injected engines are designed to use semi or fully synthetic motorcycle engine oil which meets specification API SH (or higher) AND JASO MA.

Do not add any chemical additives to the engine oil. The engine oil also lubricates the clutch and any additives could cause the clutch to slip.

Do not use mineral, vegetable, non-detergent oil, castor based oils or any oil not conforming to the required specification. The use of these oils may cause instant, severe engine damage.

Ensure no foreign matter enters the crankcase during an oil change or top-up."
 

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10-40 odd ball viscosity?? Its available at every motorcycle shop ive been to? I wouldnt run 20w50 at all, 15w50 would be fine if you live in Las Vegas and also Triumph recommends it. Back in the day it was recommended to use in worn motors. 20w50 can be too viscouse to run through oil passages and or oil jets that spray oil on piston skirts etc.

Yes, oddball, as in you will not find it in any parts house, supermarket, service station, or any other place besides a motorcycle shop/dealership and for a jacked up price.

My Mobil 1 20W50 was a typo; I meant 15W50 for Mobil1, but not in general. My mistake:)

However, 20W50 can be used in place of 15W20 (although Mobil 1 does not make it), as 20 weight at cold start is not at all too heavy to run in our engines in a hot climate; 20W50 is not just used in high-mileage automotive engines, but many race circuits run synthetic 20W50 in brand new engines after the dyno break-in. The difference between 20 and 15 viscosity is not enough to clog or not make it through any oil galley or cause any issues whatsoever.

Here's a plug for Amsoil off their website:

"AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil (MCV) is recommended for Harley-Davidson, Buell, Victory, Ducati, BMW, Aprilla and Triumph motorcycles calling for a 15W-50 or 20W-50 viscosity, providing superior protection in engines, transmissions and primary chaincases."

We agree on running full synthetic, but as we both said before, it's a debated subject:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Guys thanks a ton for all the advice. The previous owner said that we would pay for the service at the deal which was nice of him so I took it into Triumph and spoke to the techs about the bike.

The bike is hesitant to start, runs very rough when it does and under acceleration it seems sluggish then it fires to life. Taking into account that the bike has sat for over a year and even then it was driven really sporadically and not very often I figured the injectors were clogged.

Of course the triumph dealer wants um...a lot of money to do it I kindly said no. They did load a new map onto the bike and there is an improvement. Tonight when I get home from work I'm going to run Seafoam through the intake and throw some in the gas tank.

Hopefully that will clear it up. If not, then I guess I'll swap the injectors out for new ones.

Anyone here every seafoam one of these? I'm sitting here at the office trying to figure out if there is some type of vacuum line that I can tap into. Kinda like hope I pour Seafoam into the brake booster on a car.

If not I can just start taking things off the bike until I figure it out :)
 

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Guys thanks a ton for all the advice. The previous owner said that we would pay for the service at the deal which was nice of him so I took it into Triumph and spoke to the techs about the bike.

The bike is hesitant to start, runs very rough when it does and under acceleration it seems sluggish then it fires to life. Taking into account that the bike has sat for over a year and even then it was driven really sporadically and not very often I figured the injectors were clogged.

Of course the triumph dealer wants um...a lot of money to do it I kindly said no. They did load a new map onto the bike and there is an improvement. Tonight when I get home from work I'm going to run Seafoam through the intake and throw some in the gas tank.

Hopefully that will clear it up. If not, then I guess I'll swap the injectors out for new ones.

Anyone here every seafoam one of these? I'm sitting here at the office trying to figure out if there is some type of vacuum line that I can tap into. Kinda like hope I pour Seafoam into the brake booster on a car.

If not I can just start taking things off the bike until I figure it out :)
DONT RUN SEAFOAM! Dont mess with that stuff on the bike.
Just add a can of Motul injector cleaner in.
It could be anything. It could be sensor, ignition coil stick or who knows. First thing is hook an OBD II scanner up and see if there are any stored codes. Even if there is no check engine light on they still may be there. This could reveal a bad sensor or something.
In reality I would pay a good Triumph dealer to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the advice bro, but I've already done it. Just came in from the garage working on the bike. I managed to get the fuel tank off and open the airbox, thankfully when I did so I was staring at 3 darling little throttle plates.

I had a friend keep the revs up as I dumped Seafoam into each chamber, once done I let it sit for about 15 minutes then started her back up. The smoke show was intense but it all blew out after about 20 minutes. The seafoam also showed me several exhaust leaks that I will need to attend to. Like every clamp on the exhaust was leaking, blah...I'll tighten them up tomorrow and see.

I dumped the remaining Seafoam into the fuel tank and let her rip for awhile.

Once it was all done I took her for a test drive, there was a VERY noticeable difference. The bike has much more pep and the throttle response is spot on. The hesitation is gone and she feels like a whole new bike.

I'm gonna run through this tank of gas then dump more Seafoam into the next tank as well to make sure the injectors get a good scrubbing.

Seafoam has never let me down before and it hasn't this time either. This weekend I'l grab some new oil and plugs and do the crankcase.

Will keep you all posted. Thanks!
 

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Thanks for the advice bro, but I've already done it. Just came in from the garage working on the bike. I managed to get the fuel tank off and open the airbox, thankfully when I did so I was staring at 3 darling little throttle plates.

I had a friend keep the revs up as I dumped Seafoam into each chamber, once done I let it sit for about 15 minutes then started her back up. The smoke show was intense but it all blew out after about 20 minutes. The seafoam also showed me several exhaust leaks that I will need to attend to. Like every clamp on the exhaust was leaking, blah...I'll tighten them up tomorrow and see.

I dumped the remaining Seafoam into the fuel tank and let her rip for awhile.

Once it was all done I took her for a test drive, there was a VERY noticeable difference. The bike has much more pep and the throttle response is spot on. The hesitation is gone and she feels like a whole new bike.

I'm gonna run through this tank of gas then dump more Seafoam into the next tank as well to make sure the injectors get a good scrubbing.

Seafoam has never let me down before and it hasn't this time either. This weekend I'l grab some new oil and plugs and do the crankcase.

Will keep you all posted. Thanks!
Whew!! glad it worked!! I know the stuff and a lot of guys use it in cars. I am on a SAAB forum and it well known there. Ok, I was wrong! its fine to run in the fuel and to clean out the throttle bodies. Some guys were putting in their oil and had sludge and were making it worse!
 
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