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Hi,

I just rebuilt the engine on a t100r; rings, pistons, bearings, new valves, and installed 1 new amal 626.

It was starting good but I could not get it to idle and run right so I changed the needle valve to the lean position and it runs & idles better but when it is cold, it's real problem to start, sputters, backfires, choke or no choke doesn't matter. After I finally get it to run and warms up it does fine. It has a new boyer and the battery is 12volts cold. 125 lbs compression on both sides. I'm gonna switch the needle back tomorrow and see if that is it, but I'm still baffled.

Thanks for all replies.
 

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I put two new Amals on my T120R while doing an overhaul. Same results. Coldest natured bike I've ever owned. Haven't got it figured out yet. Runs like crud when cold, fine when hot. I haven't got the air valves in mine and was hoping that installing and using them would be the cure. Maybe not. I know the jetting (main and needles) is a lot leaner on the new carbs than what I had in the old ones to get a good plug color. Old carbs had 220 mains, 107 needle jets, needles in the middle groove. New carbs have 200 mains 106 needle jets and needles in top grove.
 

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That's why I like to have the enrigher (choke) slides.

Loosen the choke cable slack to lower the slides down, tickle the buttons till you get a good healthy dribble for a second (they really like to have flooded cylinders when cold), then a mighty kick like you mean business. Should start right up and idle with a blip or two.
 

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10drum is having the problem choked or not. Wonder if he might have an air leak that is closing up when the manifolds heat up and expand? (hey I wonder if I'm having the same issue?) Or maybe the re-designed Amals are just very cold natured. If I can't sort mine out I might put my old ones back on with some new chrome slides.
 
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