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04 Bonneville, Tiger front end, Ohlins, CR-S's, UNI pods, Renthal's, Brembo 19 RCS, m-Unit, AG 801
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I'm currently in the process of doing a major rebuild of my 04 Bonneville. I've had the bike for about 8 years now and I've never been a fan of the factory wiring, among other things I've already remedied for the most part. It's complexity, overall bulk, routing and unsightliness with the side covers removed were all areas I plan to address with this rebuild.

Key Players:
m-Unit Blue
m-Unit wiring kit
Motoscope Pro
3 button m-Switch
Antigravity 8 cell
RM Stator lithium compatible reg/rec

I started by stripping the bike down completely, bagging and tagging all the hardware removed and dropping the frame off to be power coated satin black from it's original grey. I neglected to snap any pictures during the deconstruction process unfortunately, as I'm not usually one to post or document my projects online. I figured this would be a good time to contribute some hopefully useful information to the forum due to previous contributions by members helping me in various areas.

First stage of the bike:
At this point I had fitted a complete front end off a 2010 Tiger 800xc, a set of Ohlin's piggybacks's S36PR1C1L, Brembo RCS 19 front master cylinder, Acewell digital dash, Buchanan wheels and spokes, Zard 2-1 (I completely hate the look of the exhaust and tires but being free the price was too good to pass up), Keihin CR's, BC air box eliminator, BC tail light
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One of the pictures for the powder coating estimate:
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I removed and filled in the steering lock to clean up the frame a little, as I'm not running a stock front end I had no use for it. In hindsight I should've removed a few more tabs and brackets.
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Reassembly process begins. Engine, shocks, and triple clamp back in/on.
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Forks, handlebars, and old switch gear. When I stood back and looked at that old switch gear I knew I needed to go a different route, so shopping I went.
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First round of parts arriving. Still lacking the Motoscope Pro and other miscellaneous odds and ends. Now the fun begins...
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Excellent. Everyone loves to watch others work and spend bucks on their bikes.
Thanks for posting the process.
 
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04 Bonneville, Tiger front end, Ohlins, CR-S's, UNI pods, Renthal's, Brembo 19 RCS, m-Unit, AG 801
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I'm now beginning the wiring. I know this is going to take some time as I'm trying to make this look as professional and factory as possible. I'm pretty meticulous about my builds and wiring especially. At this point I'm running the main battery, starter, and ground cables.
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I plan to mount everything under the seat. You can see just how small the 8 cell Antigravity battery is sitting in the BC battery box. The stock YT12 battery weighed just over 9 lbs, the new 8 cell is 1.5 lbs. I cut the starter solenoid bracket off the outside of the BC battery box and used it to mount the solenoid on the cross bar under the seat using a preexisting hole in the frame. I just drilled a countersunk hole in the bracket and used a cone shaped flat head hex bolt. I'll be using flag terminals for terminals 1 and 3 on the solenoid and 2 and 4 are plenty far from the cross bar I'm not worried about a short, but for additional protection I'll be laying a few pieces of Tesa cloth tape on the cross bar directly behind the solenoid and on terminals 2 and 4.
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I'm forgoing the turn signals as of now as they are not required in NC. This allows me to really clean up and simplify my controls. I'm able to have all the functions I need with a single 3 button switch, start/kill, light on/off/high/low, horn. I'm using, you guessed it, a 3 button m-Switch.
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A note to anyone thinking about using an m-Switch... I'm running a set of Renthal Fathers, they are supposed to be 7/8 at the control areas and this is a 7/8 m-Switch. When I initially mocked the switch up to mark the bars for holes it would just spin on the bars with the single mounting screw snugged up. I ended up having to remove a very small amount of material on one of the mounting surfaces and now it fits great. The specs/discoloration on the face of the switch is just pollen, aka a major Southen spring time nuisance.
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Fishing the wires through the bars wasn't as bad as some might think.
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m-Switch wired and mounted
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Rest of the left side controls in place.
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This will be almost the complete size of the main wiring harness. I still have to add another 2 or 3 wires to this bundle then I'll be able to clean it up with the braided sheathing and woven split loom. More to come...
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You might want to drop a line to @Dazzzz88 who's recently finished his Bluetooth m-unit build... He did a brief write-up here

~'05 Thruxton~Sport Evolution 1100cc~FCR 39mm~813 cams~shim-under-bucket~+1.5mm valves~45mm headers~Ignitech CDI~m-Lock~m-Unit~Acewell CA85~F3 Frankenfork~Hagon Nitros~6-piston Pretech~520 chain~wide 17" rims~sticky rubber~
 

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04 Bonneville, Tiger front end, Ohlins, CR-S's, UNI pods, Renthal's, Brembo 19 RCS, m-Unit, AG 801
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You might want to drop a line to @Dazzzz88 who's recently finished his Bluetooth m-unit build... He did a brief write-up here

~'05 Thruxton~Sport Evolution 1100cc~FCR 39mm~813 cams~shim-under-bucket~+1.5mm valves~45mm headers~Ignitech CDI~m-Lock~m-Unit~Acewell CA85~F3 Frankenfork~Hagon Nitros~6-piston Pretech~520 chain~wide 17" rims~sticky rubber~
Thanks for the info, I'll check that out for sure. If I remember correctly you listed out the pin numbers and functions for the factory igniter for another member in relation to an m-Unit install. I actually copied that down and am using it in my install, so thanks again.
 
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I see you'r using a Shindengen R/R. The Triumph wire harness part # T2500675 will plug into the R/R and is only about $10.00 at the dealer. The 3 wire alt connector will plug directly into the alt harness under the rt front of the seat and you can add eyelets to 2 wire connector for battery + and ground. The harness is about a foot long.
 

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04 Bonneville, Tiger front end, Ohlins, CR-S's, UNI pods, Renthal's, Brembo 19 RCS, m-Unit, AG 801
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I see you'r using a Shindengen R/R. The Triumph wire harness part # T2500675 will plug into the R/R and is only about $10.00 at the dealer. The 3 wire alt connector will plug directly into the alt harness under the rt front of the seat and you can add eyelets to 2 wire connector for battery + and ground. The harness is about a foot long.
Thanks for the info, the factory harness wiring was long enough and RM Stator provided the female plug and terminals with the R/R so I just cut the factory harness and installed the provided plug terminal ends.
 

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04 Bonneville, Tiger front end, Ohlins, CR-S's, UNI pods, Renthal's, Brembo 19 RCS, m-Unit, AG 801
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Got a little more wiring done yesterday and tried to tidy up some stuff. Currently working on the routing for the brake light and tying the front and rear switches together.

Should I be running the main fuse between the R/R and battery? I currently have it between the battery and m-Unit. From my reading to was under the impression you were supposed to have a fuse between the battery and m-Unit but in other builds I have seen it's between the R/R and battery.
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I ordered a cheap LED tail light off Ebay, it has a plate light built in so that was a plus. I was some what limited with my options due to the previous owner drilling the 4 mounting holes in the rear fender for a BC tail light that had melted the lens due to an incorrect wattage bulb. I had to find something I could modify and bolt to the mounting plate from the BC tail light in order to not have a bunch of random holes exposed on the fender. I was able to cut the light off the 4 hole BC bracket, drill new holes in the new tail light bracket, do a little bending, and it worked out pretty well I think.
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I got the Motoscope Pro mounted today. The bracket that came with it was a total DIY type deal, which I expected. I had to mark and cut to allow it to clear the triple clamp top nut and to allow room for the handlebar clamps bolts. I added a couple bends to get the gauge up in a better viewing position and then installed a Motogadget button, same type in the m-Switch, in the bracket to allow interaction with the Motoscope. I know it looks off in the pictures but I think it just the angle I took it from, its centered, I promise.
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Later today I hope to clean up some wiring, get the igniter and Motoscope button wired, and finish a few grounds. The only safety function I'm planning on keeping is the neutral safety so this shouldn't be too difficult. I already have a wiring layout thanks to a post from H3CT1C discussing m-Unit wiring with another member.
 

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04 Bonneville, Tiger front end, Ohlins, CR-S's, UNI pods, Renthal's, Brembo 19 RCS, m-Unit, AG 801
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Nice work...
I went for a split wiring loop wrap by Revival cycles. Makes it easy to unwrap and drag more wires.
I using quite a few items from Revival also and am doing the same thing with the main harness section, using a woven split loom product by Techflex, F6 Woven Wrap. For other short runs I'm using a non split braided sheathing, Flexo Heavy Wall also by Techflex, wire groups just off the m-Unit, wires out of the handlebars, Motoscope and button wires, brake light switch wires, and tail light wires.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If anyone is in the market for expandable braided sheathing or split looms Techflex makes some great stuff and have a many versions of both. I stumbled across some of their products unintentionally when I was at a local electrical supply store. For expandable sheathing I recommend the Flexo Heavy Wall expandable sheathing over the thinner Clean Cut product. I handled both and the Clean Cut was not quite rigid enough and expanded a bit too easily for our sort of application in my opinion. It is what is on the wires coming off the m-Unit in the picture on post #8, now replaced. The split loom I'm using is Techflex F6 Woven Wrap. It has a nice size overlap, is plenty flexible for this sort of application, and looks very nice in my opinion. I'm using the 1/2" version and am very easily able to fit my main harness inside with room to spare. I will post some pictures of both products on my next update.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not many pictures taken today but I got the Motoscope wired in also shown in the picture conveniently is the split loom in using. The wires in the loom from the Motoscope are seriously small, maybe 26 gauge, and a bit of a pain to work with. I constantly felt like it was going to break one.

720875
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I've got it all wired up and everything works as it should, main harness is in the split loom and secured to the frame. I ended up running the speed sensor to the front wheel. The Tiger forks had an existing hole in them that the sensor fit in perfectly. I just had to glue the magnet to the rotor, slide some braided loom over the wires, attached them to the brake hose (can just be seen in this pic), and connect everything inside the headlight bucket.
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This is the basic final configuration of the m-Unit and everything under the seat.
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This is what I was left with after it was all said and done. Mind you I had already done a good bit of thinning on the factory harness prior to the total rewire.
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I went with some new UNI filters instead of K&N's like I had on it previously. The UNI's were about half the price and I've read that actually flow more air. I know some people aren't fan's of the looks of the foam filter's but I think they look fine.
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I added a CPC 90* dual shut off fuel line disconnect to make removing the tank an easier and less messy process in the future. Getting the hose lengths just right took a few tries so I can attest to the function of this disconnect, no leaks.
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This wasn't the final position of the disconnect. It actually sits a good bit lower now with just the metal button above the engine/frame tie in.
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Tank finally back on and doing some regular maintenance before taking her out for the initial shake down.
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I relocated the ignition to the battery box. I previously had it on the left side of the frame using a joker machine bracket.
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04 Bonneville, Tiger front end, Ohlins, CR-S's, UNI pods, Renthal's, Brembo 19 RCS, m-Unit, AG 801
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
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Once I get rid of this Zard high exhaust I'll have a pretty clean frame opening going on, minus the BC battery box.
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Well that's about all for now. Thanks to everyone who I gathered information from during my research for this build, it made this a pretty simple rewire job. The next items on the big list are a low exhaust of some sort, a GSXR front end with 17" spoke wheel, and a total engine build on the spare 865 I have in the garage. Unfortunately I'm gonna have to do some saving for a bit before tackling any of those projects. Just gonna enjoy her the way she is for a little while now. Best wishes and safety to everyone in the time of craziness we are currently in.
 

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Wow, impressive work. Thanks for posting such great pics and descriptions. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow, impressive work. Thanks for posting such great pics and descriptions. (y)
Thank you, this is the first total rewire I've ever done. I'm not usually one to put much online but I figured it would be nice to document everything and potentially help someone else out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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I just discovered this thread. All I can say is "Wow!"

So it's been a year. How about a review. How does she ride? Are you happy with everything you've done? Any changes in the works?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just discovered this thread. All I can say is "Wow!"

So it's been a year. How about a review. How does she ride? Are you happy with everything you've done? Any changes in the works?
Dang, time sure does fly... I really appreciate the compliment, it's nice to to know all the hard work is not only admired by me.

A little over one year later:
Thus far I've put about 500 miles on the bike in its current configuration and overall I've been very happy with the outcome of this project. I've had absolutely 0 issues with the wiring or any of the m-Unit products. The Motoscope Pro is an awesome digital dash, it's super configurable and really has more capability than I need; I think it look's pretty sweet too which is always a plus. The m-Unit Blue just plain works. The ability to run a product like that opens so many doors in regards to customization and allows for a very minimalist wiring harness. No fuses, no relays, no unsightly factory harness; just some solid-state switching goodness. I believe I removed over 12lbs. of factory wiring; including the relays, fuse box, and aftermarket dash/switch gear. If I had to guess I'd say the new harness, m-Unit, and Motoscope Pro weigh less half of that. Combine that with the 7.5lbs. of weight savings achieved with the AntiGravity battery and that's getting very close to a 15lb. weight reduction; and yes it was noticeable on the first few post-rebuild rides.

The only thing I'm not super pleased with is the forks, but that wasn't part of this rebuild so I don't know if that counts. Regardless, in comparison to how great the Ohlin's out back are these forks lack any real progression and have a bit of a vague, under sprung-ness to them. Not real confidence inspiring... Don't fret though, I've already got a resolution to that problem in the works. Enter, Cognito Moto. Once I have all the parts & pieces on hand I'll expand the build thread with this next step in the bikes evolution.

Once again I really appreciate the recognition of all this work from you and the other commenters, I hope the next phase will be equally impressive. If you have any other questions ask away. Take care!
 
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