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I've replaced the rear brake master cylinder, but find that the brake pedal is about an inch and a half further down (from the footrest) and that I can't get it to pump brake fluid thru. I have the adjustment set at the outer end of the pushrod that goes into the cylinder. I'm wondering if I should screw the cylinder out a bit more from its housing. Any advice really appreciated. Thanks. Arthur
 

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I've replaced the rear brake master cylinder, but find that the brake pedal is about an inch and a half further down (from the footrest) and that I can't get it to pump brake fluid thru. I have the adjustment set at the outer end of the pushrod that goes into the cylinder. I'm wondering if I should screw the cylinder out a bit more from its housing. Any advice really appreciated. Thanks. Arthur
Hey there, sorry to bump an old thread, but similar prob with my T140d... not so much a lowered brake pedal, but not getting full brakeing power... I have just ordered some new pads, as there is a good 6-7 mil travel for the slave pistons , and they are looking a bit thin... (around 2 mil...) but I am not really convinced that this is the full problem.
So I wonder if you managed to sort this one out?
Cheers, busta
 

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Have you replaced the cylinder? They come with instructions about set up.

2mm is a bit thin so I'd shove in a new set. You'll need to do so soon anyway, and the wheel has to pretty much come out to move the calliper. (at least on an underslung)
 

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Have you replaced the cylinder? They come with instructions about set up.

2mm is a bit thin so I'd shove in a new set. You'll need to do so soon anyway, and the wheel has to pretty much come out to move the calliper. (at least on an underslung)
I have replaced the master cylinder, with an off- the shelf one, after several attempts over ten or so years to replace cups, seals, pistons at different times. I am surmising that whoever assembled it knew what they were doing...
The 140D actually has an overslung piston setup. The reason I actually replaced it is that it would lock on.. which I have since put down to a delamination of the brake lines, which someone on here made me look at.
However, new pads on the way, shall revert when they arrive and see how they go, however, to my way of thinking, I cannot see what difference it should make, as I reckon they should self-adjust. Perhaps I need to look at the slave side of things if the pads don't work.
 

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I assume it's a replacement by Harris? they need top be set up and come with instructions.

The pads do self align and self centre but you might have issues with the pistons and corrosion? I don't know the state of the bike.
 

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When I test road my bike prior to purchase I noticed the brake pedal was low. I adjusted it at the front of the slave cylinder and removed most of the free play, and I bought a new brake pedal spring I haven't installed yet. After I did this I noticed the casting on the outboard side of the caliper was either dragging on the rotor , or almost. I assumed it needed new pads, but upon removal the pads looked ok, and it appeared that the inner piston moves more than the outer does. At this point, with nothing leaking, I'm going to remove the caliper and bleed it with the bleeder at the top, to try to remove all the air. The outer piston isn't frozen, so I'm taking a shot this may be the problem.
 

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they can be fiddly to set up.

I had a dragging problem that I never quite figured out but I rebuilt the calliper with new seals and in the process the calliper went on and off the bike along with the wheel. Suddenly it all seemed to be ok.

I also used SS pistons while I was at it and run DOT5
 
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