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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 Sprint ST ABS. I reviewed a number of posts at this site about greasing the rear axle bearings. A bit confusing but it appears there are sealed ball bearings but then also needle bearings in the hub that are accessible. I'm having difficulty removing the rear axle. I removed the wheel, brake caliper, and sprocket drive assembly. According to my tech manual (pg 12.18) the axle shaft should be able to be pulled out from the swingarm/hub assembly. I've tried tapping and light/moderate pounding on the left side but get absolutely no movement, hate to pound with any force here. Anyway a number of folks appear to have greased their rear wheel bearings, have you found the axle shaft difficult to extract? I'm assuming i can readily access the needle bearings for greasing once i remove the shaft? If not I'll just button it up and leave as is, but i thought i would see if anyone else had a problem extracting the axle on a late model abs sprint.
 

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Nope, mine just slid out after removing the sprocket assemby staked nut from the shaft, and pulling the whole thing off the splined shaft. Does it turn freely by hand ? the needle roller bearing acts directly on the axle shaft, and I believe this is the part that can fail and chew the shaft.
 

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Danall

I'm new to the new Triumphs, but old at bike maintenance, so you can take or leave my advice.
As far as removing that shaft, after you go by the book to remove all pieces/parts. Put a block of wood against the axle and hit it ONLY with a 1-2lb. plastic coated, dead blow hammer. If it don't move then, take it to the shop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys
Yup, have the spocket assembly off the splined shaft, pounded moderately with an 18oz hammer on a wood block on the end, no movement whatsoever. According to the manual it should just pull out as yours did...or at the most with some moderate persuasion. Looks like i may have bearings fused to the shaft?...reckon i will reassemble and take it in to the shop.
 

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That - as everyone, including yourself, says - should just pull out.
It appears that the axle is seized in the bearings.
I don't see any means of applying a puller for this scenario - I've racked my brain trying to think of how to devise one & coming up empty.
You're going to have to get more force behind it appears - the only thing you can likely damage would be the bearings - assuming you are replacing those anyway. Have the nut over the end of the shaft to protect it and using your wooden block try a bigger hammer.
Try to get some penetrating oil at least on the left side bearing/axle - right will be impossible to access of course
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks Decosse
In response to a few questions, yes the axle currently turns but somewhat stiffly, is not locked up. Purchased the bike new late in fall of 2007, now has just under 12,000 miles. Is garaged when not ridden, dry climate here, but i have ridden 3-4 times in extended rain. Never use a pressure washer on the bike.
I also tried to see how a wheel puller could be used...no luck. I think i will assemble and take it to the dealer as I'm hoping this might be covered under warranty if in fact i have seized bearings.
I have tried some moderately hard pounding on an oak block and could see absolutely no movement so I just think I'll let the Triumph shop deal with it although i prefer to do all my own maintenance and repair. other option of course is bathe it in penetrating oil and use a really big mall and beat the **** out of it.
 

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Well, you are under the 24mo. of in-service limit and the rear drive bearing is not to be serviced until 12K. So with those parameters it's a warranty case for sure. Hope you didn't bugger things up too much.

The last option of just beating on the thing is the point when you tweak the swingarm and really foul things.
 

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BTW, some :rolleyes: relube the bearing without removing it from the eccentric housing. That is not the best practice. the bearing should be removed, cleaned and repacked with the correct amount of grease. Do not spin the bearing with air pressure while cleaning it. That will destroy the bearing and forever identify you as a :eek:!

The bearing is held in position by a large snap ring which can be difficult to remove without a good snap ring plier. The small, rinky dink snap ring pliers that come with the Builder Bob tool sets will not work.
 

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My mechanic reckons they are poorly greased from the factory. Mine (S3) had signs of rust on the axle which he cleaned up. Apparently it won’t have to be touched now for quite some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
update

The good news, the bearings were lubed ok. This morning, after i had reassembled the bike it dawned on me how to get the shaft out, i figured it was binding a bit where the pinchbolt compresses the swingarm, and that a little leverage at the split by the pinchbolt might loosen it up. Well since i had an appointment with the dealer later that morning, i said the heck with it and let them look at it. Sure enough the mechanic had to use a little persuasion and leverage that opening up a bit that the pinchbolt closes. But...it was a good thing i had the dealer inspect it as they found the inner seal to the needle bearing torn/damaged. The mechanic figured it probably happened at the factory as the shaft has an abrupt shoulder that preceeds the bearing surface, and if not centered exactly when inserting the shaft it would be easy for this shoulder to catch and tear the seal. Folks that inspect their rear wheel bearings may want to inspect this inner seal closely, it was not readily obvious until you actually manipulated the seal a bit. Anyway deal is going to replace seals and bearing (since you can't remove the inner seal without removing the bearing) under warrantly since he figures it happened upon factory installion. Back to the original concern, the4 bearing was adequately greased, his concern was that in time with the torn seal the grease would work out.
 
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