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Discussion Starter #1
I'm tarting up my original T140E sidecovers.

They're the ABS(?) so I've added a bit of filler here and there and over sprayed with several coats of Halfords Gloss black. I am getting some transfers made to replicate the ones that used to be on it from the shop.
The supplier recommends clear coat as protection.

So the question is, do I flatten the black gloss before the clear coat?
Add clear coat before the transfers and after?
Flatten clear coat and then polish? (T cut)

I've never bothered with clear coat before.

Just to complicate matters, I'm going to do the same again but with fibreglass ones later
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Morris -

Cheers

I've "youtubed" a couple of vids and it looks as if that's pretty much what people seem to do.

I don't want to waste time and effort and esp as the transfers are costing a bit
 

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I have been trying out this clearcoat

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330623180746?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Seems to work well but am not sure yet if it is petrol resistant. Have a test piece waiting but am letting it dry for a couple of weeks first.

Have not tried laquering over transfers yet but would always recomend doing some test pieces (of course that is if you have any spare similar transfers).

Just remember that any imperfection in the base coat (orangepeel etc) will show up in the laquered finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
cheers.

I was going to use Halfords ( as the gloss seems ok)
I'd bought their Petrol Resistant but read an online review that it goes yellow, so I swapped it for Standard. The petrol taps are near the panels, but they're new, so hopefully not too bad.

I've asked the guy who's making the transfers to give me any spare stuff that he can spare for experiments
 

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I have used the Halfords petrol resistant laquer on loads of parts on my TR7 and have not noticed it going yellow over the last 3 years.

The only problem with it is that once it is dry you cannot re-coat, as i found out when trying to remove some imperfections from my petrol tank. This is why I am trying out the other stuff for use during my BSA restoration. Trouble is I have already used the halford stuff on the side panels and oil tank and have now applied a transfer so cannot clearcoat over the top to protect so will have to rely on several layers of polish.

I have some of the ebay stuff left over and I think you only live a few miles away so would be happy to drop it over for you to experiment with when you get the transfers
 

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cheers.

I was going to use Halfords ( as the gloss seems ok)
I'd bought their Petrol Resistant but read an online review that it goes yellow, so I swapped it for Standard. The petrol taps are near the panels, but they're new, so hopefully not too bad.

I've asked the guy who's making the transfers to give me any spare stuff that he can spare for experiments
The petrol taps may be new but it doesn't mean they will not leak. I brought a new set for my TR7 and one had been machined incorectly resulting in a minute hole in the tap body, that took a while to trace the source.
 

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I once painted a tank with Halfords black gloss before i knew it wasn't petrol resistant...slight ammount of petrol on it and was immediately ruined.

I would put some standard clear lacquer on top of the transfers, then gently rub down and then give it a couple of coats of the petrol resistant lacquer. I've not had any problems with it yellowing either.
 

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Hi Folks,
My biggest secret for spray can painting is to let the sun do the baking.
If the temp is cold, will warm up the paint can with hot water before spraying.
Still very pleased with the performance with the 'Engine Enamel' high temp paint on my tank!
Seems like the You-Tube guys don't want to give up their secrets- tips and tricks, as such.
Oh well- fun is. . .
;)

Celebrating here- just got hired after two years of unemployment!
 

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Congrats on landing a job Morris!

I bake in the kitchen over with the fan on. Set oven about 180 and let it bake for 1/2 hour.

Surprised to hear you cannot recoat of that clear. Sounds like enamel to me and if not fully cured with wrinkle. Try baking a test sample and then re coat. See if that helps prevent issues.

As for decals, I would suggest you flat sand the black with something like 5000 grit wet/dry. This will make the surface dead flat and the decals will stick much better. If they are peel off, and not water transfers, start them from one end and smooth out with your finger or similar as you peel the back off from underneath. This will help prevent air bubbles being trapped.

The transfers I've seen are made on a computer printer and the ink is susceptible to solvents and abrasion. I would definitely clear over them.

regards,

Rob
 

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I have been trying out this clearcoat

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330623180746?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Seems to work well but am not sure yet if it is petrol resistant. Have a test piece waiting but am letting it dry for a couple of weeks first.

Have not tried laquering over transfers yet but would always recomend doing some test pieces (of course that is if you have any spare similar transfers).

Just remember that any imperfection in the base coat (orangepeel etc) will show up in the laquered finish.
I can now confirm that this laquer is not petrol resistant
Petrol softens the laquer straight away and trying to rub it off makes a right mess. The only option is to let the petrol evaporate naturally and wait awhile to let the laquer dry again and then rub down again. Pity because it gives a really nice finish
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thought I'd say how I got on.

I wasn't sure what to do but after buying the Halfords petrol resistant clear coat, I rubbed down the black gloss and applied the transfers.
I allowed 24 hours for them to dry and then put 3 or 4 coats of clear coat on, 15 mins between coats. The instructions say that yu can't add more coats when dry.

I have fitted them to the bike but will rub down and polish them in 6 weeks when fully hard.
 

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