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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting ready to mount my new FH020AA Mosfet R/R. I'm considering mounting it on the left side on the bare panel. Looks like a good spot to tuck it away, but I'm wondering if it will fit ok without interfering with the bodywork? I thought I saw a picture somewhere where someone had used this location, but couldn't find it. I posted a couple pictures to give you an idea of where it would go.

I like the idea of mounting it closer since the stator harness will be long enough and I can eliminate the old block connector as well as having shorter power leads to the battery.

Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help!



 

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Discussion Starter #2
I went ahead and zip tied the R/R into place on that panel and fitted the left tail piece. It actually fits really good here. I left the zip tie fairly loose so I would be able to adjust it to determine the best position. It will actually sit with the top edge parallel to the top sub frame rail. I was going to drill two new holes for mounting, but the top hole will be an issue due to location near the top sub frame rail. If you look at my first picture there is a pre existing hole, the one closest to the bottom of the panel. That hole actually lines up perfect for the bottom mount, it just needs to be drilled bigger for the M6 fastener. I think I'll just use one bolt and be done with it. I really wish I could use two bolts, but I can't forsee any vibration issues so it should be good. To me it seems like the cleanest mounting position. I'll post some updates and pictures as this comes together.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Here's some more pics of the progress. I'm VERY happy with this mounting location. It will make the R/R output to battery leads very short and clean (the shorter the better). The stator connections will also be shorter and as already mentioned eliminates the old connector. Even with the decision to use only one bolt the R/R is very secure.

About to drill the small lower hole using 1/4 drill bit.



I chose to use a nicer M6 flange head fastener along with a washer, lock washer, and flange nut for the backside. Here is the hole drilled out and the new bolt.



Shot of the installed location after torquing down the fastner. Trust me, this thing is not gonna budge!



I cut the old connector off the stator wire harness and pulled it through to the left hand side. The next step will be to cut the harness back about 10" - 12" making sure to leave plenty of slack just in case.
 

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If you want to secure the top location you can use a nutsert - these are already used on the subframe - it's like a combination rivet/nut. Probably also a good idea for the bottom location too.

Do you have a correct crimp tool for those Furukawa connectors? Be sure that you make stellar connections to those terminals. You might also consider replacing the connector set at the other end of that stator extender cable in your hand - the other end of that uses the same Yazaki connector as that you removed at the R/R end - replace it with a good quality sealed connector (like a MetriPack) - that will otherwise be the last weak link in the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the heads up on the crimp tool. I was wondering if mine would work and it probably won't. Can you post a link to the tool I will need? Thanks.
 

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Well there are different options - what you need is a non-insulated (or uninsulated) terminal crimper.
This will do the job at an affordable price
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18930-Ratcheting-Weatherpack/dp/B000K1CFXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348681961&sr=8-1&keywords=Tool+Aid+18930[/ame]

- requires a pretty good squeeze on those Furukawa terminals but will work. Can also be used for MetriPack terminals.
If in doubt as to quality of your crimp, solder also AFTER you complete the crimp.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey I finished the install and thought I would follow up with a few pics.

Here are the some shots of the wiring/connector assembly. Having the correct crimp tool is a must. While the crimps came out good, I decided to solder as well just for peace of mind.

Crimp before solder.



Crimp after solder.



Assembling connectors.





Final assembly and some shots of the unit with the bodywork back in place.









A solid 14.4v now at idle and on the throttle.



And here is a parting shot after the test ride for all you Daytona 955i lovers!
 

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That is almost the same as where I put mine, although I moved it back a bit so it was opposite the original mounting point. I have never seen the need to go beyond zip ties, as it is fixed tight without movement or vibration. plenty of clearance from the tail fairing too!

The photo is the only one I have with the r/r in place.:eek:
 
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