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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


A beauty, yeah?

This was my fathers first bike, and has now been handed down to me. It's sat in my uncles basement for about 20 years, along with other bikes including a Bonneville and a Husquvarna dirtbike or two.... and 3 cars in the garage... He was told it's time to get his stuff out, and this was brought home first. I saw it in the drive way and immediately fell in love, before i even knew what it was. after a few talks, he agreed that if we restore it together, it's mine.


Anyway, I've cleaned the tank, replaced the fuel lines & filters (carb primes draw fuel!!) Clipped the wires, replaced the boots & plugs, and replaced the battery.

The engine kicks over, but i haven't started it yet. I need an ignition switch (missing), and also when i hooked the battery up, it immediately blew the 30A fuse on the Positive lead (this is a Positive ground bike apparently, is this the wiring diagram i should be using? does anyone have anything more offical?

I'm also in need of tires (the front has a nail and is a tube tire, can these wheels only be run with tubes?), and oil and gas cap (both missing, i dont even know what they look like), a rear tail lens and left reflector triangle thing (both also missing)... And a speedometer cable (my dad says i may also need the gear drive?), clutch cable w/ adjuster (barrel is missing from cable, rigged up with mountain bike parts and adjuster, must be replaced) Also, the right tank stud is broken, the center bolt is missing (rubber things is still there tho, so no biggie), and a mount for the right exhaust pipe is broken.

I know it's alot, but where should i start looking for these things?

I'd like to know how to change out the fluids as well, is there a site with maintaince guides for these bikes?

Here's some more photos, because those are always fun.

Stamp Shot:


Dat Booty:


Before all the polishing:


Thanks a million!
 

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it immediately blew the 30A fuse on the Positive lead
Hi & welcome DG,

Rule # 1:

Triumph fuse ratings were different back then and now translate to one half that value.

Somebody's hand drawn diagram could be questionable to use-- better off with a factory manual and compare the two to what's on the bike. . .

Good luck and nice bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi & welcome DG,

Rule # 1:

Triumph fuse ratings were different back then and now translate to one half that value.

Somebody's hand drawn diagram could be questionable to use-- better off with a factory manual and compare the two to what's on the bike. . .

Good luck and nice bike.
Huh, so i need a modern 15a tube fuse then?

I'll have to search for a manual then..
 

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Huh, so i need a modern 15a tube fuse then?

I'll have to search for a manual then..
Some still use the original spring loaded fuse holder and some use a more modern blade type fuse and holder ILO the original setup.

Reason behind it is that glass fuses are harder to find??

You need to find the short first though?
 

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Odd you have a fuse on the positive side.It left the factory with it on the negative.However,as said,you need to find the fault.Get the book first and read it all.A parts book will list everything missing.Parts are readily available and more recently,a huge amount of spares are being reproduced in the UK by L.F.Harris so they are getting better quality.You really need to have a good knowledge to recommission that 500 but it is a nice one to learn on.Talk with Mr ed here.He is the man on a 500
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Odd you have a fuse on the positive side.It left the factory with it on the negative.However,as said,you need to find the fault.Get the book first and read it all.A parts book will list everything missing.Parts are readily available and more recently,a huge amount of spares are being reproduced in the UK by L.F.Harris so they are getting better quality.You really need to have a good knowledge to recommission that 500 but it is a nice one to learn on.Talk with Mr ed here.He is the man on a 500

It's a glass fuse on red wire if i remember correctly, so yeah i think its on the negative then. Hopefully i'll see him around. I'm trying to learn as much as i can about this bike!

hopefully ill find a book online somewhere
 

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Hello DG,

Go now to the GABMA site for a wealth of tech articles by Richard Watney. Good stuff. I'm doing a '71 right now and have started a thread in the Restoration section of this wonderful 4-m. Lots of great help here.

I'm pretty sure we'll be talking.

td
 

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Part manual for your bike can be viewed here until you get a hard copy.

http://www.bigdcycle.com/books.html

British Only has an e-catalog on line that is very useful. They also put codes after the part numbers or mention in the description if they are made UK, Japan or Botswana.

You can find parts on ebay, but beware that there is a lot of crap for sale on ebay.

You have a great start for a nice restoration project. And being a family bike makes it that much more special.

You cannot run without tubes on spoke wheels. Yes, there are exceptions with modern wheels made today. But you will need tubes for your tires. Consider Dunlop K70 tires. Good tire, good price and correct for the bike.

regards,
Rob
 

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It's a glass fuse on red wire if i remember correctly, so yeah i think its on the negative then.
Your little wiring diagram seems accurate enough if a rectifier/regulator is fitted.It only includes the basics,and leaves a lot out.

All the red wires are positive wires.The brown/blue battery wire is a negative wire.
It is actually better (and safer) to have the fuse close to the battery in the red positive ground wire.When new,the fuse would have been in the brown/blue negative wire.

It sounds like you might have connected the battery reverse-polarity.Luckily the fuse blew,and hopefully before it damaged rectifier,zener or voltage regulator,or the alternator rotor.

If you continue to blow fuses,disconnect the zener diode or voltage regulator;it's probably damaged.

Google-search "classicbike.biz" for manuals,parts manuals etc.You'll find more links in the Technical Tips section.You can get more parts now than you could 10 or 20 years ago.You won't have to look far.Sometimes you'll get a better deal overseas,and sometimes better locally.British Only Austria and British Spares N.Z. seem to be competitive with good prices.

If you want to avoid trouble with your oil pump,don't remove the crankcase drain plug when you change oil.Plenty of people will tell you to remove it,but there's no need.When you start it,just run the return line into a bucket for 30 seconds to catch any dirty oil.Then re-attach the return line to the oil tank.

The oil tank will probably have a lot of sediment at the bottom.Before long,you should remove the tank and thoroughly clean it.Some of that sediment will be set like concrete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Hello DG,

Go now to the GABMA site for a wealth of tech articles by Richard Watney. Good stuff. I'm doing a '71 right now and have started a thread in the Restoration section of this wonderful 4-m. Lots of great help here.

I'm pretty sure we'll be talking.

td
Right on man, hope to see you around, best of luck!

Just found that place earlier, awesome stuff!

Part manual for your bike can be viewed here until you get a hard copy.

http://www.bigdcycle.com/books.html

British Only has an e-catalog on line that is very useful. They also put codes after the part numbers or mention in the description if they are made UK, Japan or Botswana.

You can find parts on ebay, but beware that there is a lot of crap for sale on ebay.

You have a great start for a nice restoration project. And being a family bike makes it that much more special.

You cannot run without tubes on spoke wheels. Yes, there are exceptions with modern wheels made today. But you will need tubes for your tires. Consider Dunlop K70 tires. Good tire, good price and correct for the bike.

regards,
Rob
Thanks for the info! K70's it is, what kind of tubes should i get? Im sure the guy at Motorcycle Services can help with that, however.

Your little wiring diagram seems accurate enough if a rectifier/regulator is fitted.It only includes the basics,and leaves a lot out.

All the red wires are positive wires.The brown/blue battery wire is a negative wire.
It is actually better (and safer) to have the fuse close to the battery in the red positive ground wire.When new,the fuse would have been in the brown/blue negative wire.

It sounds like you might have connected the battery reverse-polarity.Luckily the fuse blew,and hopefully before it damaged rectifier,zener or voltage regulator,or the alternator rotor.

If you continue to blow fuses,disconnect the zener diode or voltage regulator;it's probably damaged...
Thanks a bunch, i'm fairly certain i did hook it up backwards, but only momentarily. after the second fuse blew i looked around here and figured it was negative ground and decided to call it a night and wait for my dad to continue. ill study what offical diagrams i can find, my dad seems confident that he knows a bunch about the bike still, but one of the first things i hope to pick up is a Haynes or other service book sometime soon, and i've also been reading some factory literature.

thanks for the info everyone!
 

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I doubt if it's negative ground.The red positive wire will be grounded.

The grounding polarity could have been change if a rectifier/regulator was wired different polarity.Not so if it still uses the original rectifier and zener diode.See if it has a rectifier/regulator and see what colour wire goes from the regulator to ground.If it has a black wire connected to your red ground wires,that changes things.
 

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If you want the bike to handle well,put on a set of Avon Roadriders.Here in the UK it is the tyre of choice for most old bikes.I don't know anyone in the old bike clubs around here using K70s,mainly because we have a lot of corners and it hurts when you go into the hedge
 

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If you want the bike to handle well,put on a set of Avon Roadriders.Here in the UK it is the tyre of choice for most old bikes.I don't know anyone in the old bike clubs around here using K70s,mainly because we have a lot of corners and it hurts when you go into the hedge
I won't dispute what Rambo says about the K70's but I happen to like them. They look so cool, and an old guy like me is not flying through the corners scraping the foot pegs too much any more.
 

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I won't dispute what Rambo says about the K70's but I happen to like them. They look so cool, and an old guy like me is not flying through the corners scraping the foot pegs too much any more.
I run Avons on my 650 but will be using K70's on the '71 T100R I'm resurrecting for a friend for exactly the reasons above.

td
 

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Part manual for your bike can be viewed here until you get a hard copy.

http://www.bigdcycle.com/books.html


You cannot run without tubes on spoke wheels. Yes, there are exceptions with modern wheels made today. But you will need tubes for your tires. Consider Dunlop K70 tires. Good tire, good price and correct for the bike.

regards,
Rob
Observation on K70 tyres:

I fitted a K70 on the rear of my Daytona, and while I'm happy with the look and grip of the tyre (can't comment on wet grip as I don't take it out in the rain if I can avoid it), it has squared off quite badly after only 2500 miles.

Going by at the amount of tread left in the centre it will probably be worn out in another 500 miles or so.

I think they have gone for a more modern compound to give better grip but with the block pattern of the K70 this leads to fast wear.

I ususally plod around at 60MPH on twisty single lane A and B roads with occasionaly a few miles at 70MPH on more major roads, so not loads of fast motorway running to cause the tyre to square off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Observation on K70 tyres[...]
Hmm, thank you for the input, My local shop has a few diffrent options, i already forget what tires he suggested, a pair for $175. He also did suggest the Avon's that rambo mentioned, as a secondary choice. i already have purchased tubes, so now to save up for tires...

Thank you, DerryUK, i'll check that out!

My dad got the bike to spark, but it's very weak. He said he cleaned the points, but it didnt make too much a diffrence, i ordered new points and condensors to be on the safe side.


I ordered a few other things from Northern Eagle, (shocks boots, speedo cable, gas cap, a Haynes manual) But i'm having a bit of a hard time locating an Oil tank cap:(. a found a tank and cap on ebay, but i don't want to pay $50 for it... I have checked most of the links on BritBike's homepage, but no dice. Anyone have a suggestions to a place to find an affordable cap?
 

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The new points aren't likely to be of the same quality as the old ones.If the old ones cleaned up OK,I'd use them and get more trouble-free miles.
New condensors sounds like a good idea.
 
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