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From this TriumphRat.net reference thread andrewt showed that it is possible to swap the Triumph throttle grip with a Yamaha R1 grip.

However from the same thread, Martin_R made this important observation:
Martin_R said:
The caveat is that the actual throttle grip cam on 1050 is 36.5mm and on the R1 grip it is 37mm. So translated to actual throttle degrees the change is only a few degrees. Not worth the trouble, if it is a quick action throttle one is after.
But then I found the following thread on a Gixxer forum that shows the differences of several throttle grips, knowing that the R6 Grip is a VERY popular swap over many different marques:

http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213953

(please note that you will be unable to see the images unless you are registered member, however all the text is visible without registering)

So the next logical extension for the Triumph is to fit the R6 throttle grip, which has a larger cam (40.5mm) and that will decrease the rotation proportionately.

From that thread and andrewt's I have amalgamated the pictures to show the differences:



Since the R1 and Triumph grips are readily interchangeable per andrewt nad the R1/R6 grips themselves are interchangeable with each other, reasonable to assume the R6 will interchange with the Triumph (caveat - I have not validated this empirically!)

An R6 throttle grip part number 2C0-26240-00-00 from somewhere like http://www.mrcycles.com is $18.58. (list price $25)
 

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Very interested to hear if someone has got the large R6 combo to work and how.

One more issue with at least the R1 tube, and looking at that pic suspecting on the R6 too, is that the Yamaha cam is thinner than 1050. This results in quite an annoying sideways slop. Easy to shim out of course, but something to consider still.

Also read the GSXR thread fully to confirm right part number for white & larger R6 part number. I ordered a R6 tube based on that same Gixxer board thread a year ago and got a 36.5/37mm black tube identical to the R1. Confusion in the info on that thread or at the Yamaha dealer network as it seems many other had similar results.
 

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I think I have the correct part number in my opening post Martin?
Unfortunately I do not have the part number I used anymore, so can't really say if they have now updated the info or not.
I just remember that the part number was different to R1, but the actual part in the bag was the same.


Edit. One more option for quick action might be the G2 throttle tube + the 025 & 050 cams:
http://g2ergo.com/shop/catalog/G2-Throttle-Cams-For-Any-Situation-259.html

Edit2. Just got a reply from G2. The cams that suit their 1050 Triple tube are: 100Y (stock size), 050Y (10% larger) and 025Y (20% larger). If you want only the quick turn cams and not their "throttle tamer" cam, you can order the combo you want via email/phone. The webshop only has the tube+tamer bundle.
 

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twist and go

I do a little land speed racing with my S3 and i think this would be a good mod for that sort of competion. I have to roll my elbow far up before i leave the line because i'm trying to keep them tucked in and out of the wind and my wrist strait at WOT. If i can get it done before i leave for the Texas Mile in March, i'll let you know how it worked.
 

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I gave the 40.25mm (Y050) G2Ergo cam a try. This is the change in turn vs. stock tube. Larger cam drops turn to somewhere around 65 degrees:


But in order to make it work you will have to remove all areas marked in red:




I must say that I am not completely happy with the throttle because:
-the aluminium tube against cast housing is not as smooth as plastic (the R6 tube would be better)
-the removal of two small guides from housing mean that cable in theory can move to side of housing and possibly bind
-you will have to remove 2 support pegs from cable and also the only solid part of the outer guide tube -> the cables have room to move around

All in all, I think a proper quick action throttle would be a more solid option. I will go this route or back to stock as I have trust issues with the modded setup.
 

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Just throwing this in there :) I bought Rizoma grips for my FZ1-N and it came with three different wheels/Cams for the cable so you could pick the speed you wanted....

From PJ's parts :cool:
 

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Ok. The R6 throttle tube arrived. It was difficult to get my Hot Grips heated grip off the stock tube because I JB WELD epoxy'd it on, but it eventually slid off. The new R6 tube fits fine inside the metal throttle tube clamps. It's the plastic throttle cable guides which prevent a good fit.


Here is the gain we're lookin at:


The stock throttle cable guides wont fit...



So, remove some material from the housing in that one spot...


Also need to remove some plastic from the throttle cable guides


It fit's perfectly! Smooth as silk.


Too bad I wont be able to try it out for another three weeks or so due to the snow and salt on chicago roads.
 

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So, remove some material from the housing in that one spot...
You didn't need to touch the 2 small pegs on the other side of the housing at all? Those were also binding with the G2 throttle tube.
Does the throttle return with the normal crisp snap when you let go of the tube?

I got the Active Japan quick action housing & tube after the G2 frustration. They have 28/32/36/40/42/44mm tubes available for the same housing. I'll post a few pics next time I visit the hibernation garage.
http://www.acv.co.jp/01_product/hi_thro_en.html
 

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While just trying to see how it fit before any cutting (as in the 3rd pic above) it seemed that the lower housing caused most of the fit issue.
I didnt find it necessary to grind down the upper housing. Those two small pegs youre referring to didnt cause any problem after grinding down the lower housing spot and removing some plastic from the cable guides.

After being tightened up the throttle snaps back quick and hard. All good.
 

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Good question. I loosened up the cables at the TB, and it helped squeeze the two plastic cable guides together as in pic 2. You still need to remove material, however, because the plastic guides are aligned in grooves inside the housings at the far end. This prevents the slack from actually helping you when trying to screw the housing together with the cable guides in place.
 

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Those two small pegs youre referring to didnt cause any problem after grinding down the lower housing spot and removing some plastic from the cable guides.
:confused:
I guess I was a bit overeager with the Dremel then when the action with the G2 tube was not smooth. Might be that I misinterpreted the aluminium tube friction against the housing as the cam rubbing on the pegs. Or the cable was not sitting between pegs correctly.

Your setup with the pegs intact looks definitely safer than my original botch job. On yours the pull side cable cannot move to the edge of the cam where it could bind.

Did you doublecheck the throttlebody cam movement? Moves all the way from stop to stop?
 

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Here's my 2nd attempt on the quick action setup. The kit I used is Active's ZZR1400 2006 bundle (grips+housing+40mm throttle tube+900mm cables). Cables could be a tad shorter, but otherwise it's an OK match for Speedy. I did not cut the cables as I like the factory pressed barrel nipples better than home-soldered ones.





Mid-cable adjusters end up in a bit awkward spot, but as both cables can be adjusted at the throttle tube housing I don't really see any need for these:
 

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MartinR,

Sweet looking setup you have there.

Last night I double checked the action on my setup, and it does indeed move the throttle body butterfly valves full open to full close smoothly and quickly. Returns smooth, too.
There is still about a mm of play in the throttle tube on axis with the handlebar and no play off-axis. The throttle tube inner diameter is perfectly sized for our handlebar.
Again, I sprayed some WD-40 inbetween the throttle tube and the handlebar as well as some inside the cam housing area, which may have helped smooth things out a bit.

Is there extra play in your setup with the two metal tabs in the housing removed? I'd expect youd still be fine cause the tube is aligned with the handlebar in off-axis.
 

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Last night I double checked the action on my setup, and it does indeed move the throttle body butterfly valves full open to full close smoothly and quickly. Returns smooth, too.
Job well jobbed then, as the UK folk like to say. I also noticed that you left more of the inner nylon/teflon liner intact where you cut the plastic guides.

I cut them at the same spot as plastic. Might be that the sandy rubbing feel I got was partially due to the cable rubbing against the housing.


There is still about a mm of play in the throttle tube on axis with the handlebar and no play off-axis.
You could measure the movement and get a suitable shim washer from local bearings shop. If it is annoying enough that is.

I have also used a fat barend to wedge the play out on my previous bikes, but might not be as safe as washer as the play will end up as a gap inside the housing.


Is there extra play in your setup with the two metal tabs in the housing removed? I'd expect youd still be fine cause the tube is aligned with the handlebar in off-axis.
You're probably right. I already ordered a virgin set of housing + cables for a backup, in case I don't like the quicker action. So I won't be using the modded items in any case if I go back to stock.
 

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Started reading this thread about 20 minutes ago, popped on eBay and just won a brand new R6 throttle tube, grip and housing for £10.90 inc carriage. Just add it to the list of jobs to do the bike.
 
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