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I want to know if using Mobil 1 15W50 fully synthetic extended performance oil bought at Walmart for $6.90 /quart is the same as using Mobil 1 4T Racing 15W50 from Triumph for $50 /4quarts is the same/good for my bike.The spares man at my dealer told me its OK (pretty much the same oil ) only the one is packaged for Triumph and the other not.(can normal engine oil used for cars be used in bikes?/?)as the Walmart oil does not specify for motorcycles!!!!
What oil do you all use??
 

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I wouldn't use the regular oil. It doesn't have the lubricants for the wet clutch as japawhat says. I use Mobil 1 4T but not from the dealer. I got it from Kragen for a little less than $9 a quart. If you are not familiar with Kragen, not sure if they have them in NC, it is like a Pepeboys or Autozone.
 

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All the wal- mart stores around here carry the mobile 1 4t 10w 40 motorcycle oil and they also have the fram ph 6017A oil filters. These items are found in a different section than the regular oils.The oil only runs about $7.40 a liter and the filters about $5.00.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys , my local Walmart didnt have motorcycle oil so I broke down and got raped by Triumph ($50 for 4 quarts)@ least I have it now!!!!Appreciate the replies though..
 

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i would not recommend doing that that oil is not designed for use with our wet clutch. Supposedly it will make it slip.
I wouldn't use the regular oil. It doesn't have the lubricants for the wet clutch as japawhat says.
Both wrong. Sorry to be so blunt, but you guys are just spreading bad information the oil company's put out to fatten their wallets! I have no issue with anyone who prefers to use this stuff anyway if it gives you the warm and fuzzies, but this clutch slippage and gearbox shear stuff just doesn't have any REAL PROOF anywhere. If you find any, please post the link. Real proof not marketing hype.

Don't buy into this MARKETING BS the oil company's have pushed on you to trick you into paying WAY more than their products are worth! As long as you stay away from the 'Energy Conserving Oils' (of which none are even close to the correct viscosity for our applications) you will be fine. Even plain old Dino oil such as Castrol GTX is fine, you just can't expect it to get 6K between oil changes. I'd change it at around 1500 miles. (just like the Honda manual for my 900F states) The Triumph owners manual you got with the bike does not even say that Mobil 1, or their Triumph branded oil for motorcycles is mandatory! Why do you think that is? As suggested do some research and you decide, but you're going to fine that there is absolutely NO EVIDENCE that supports that motorcycle specific oils are ANY better in your bike. Or any engine for that matter!

I use the Shell Rotella T synthetic. I change it every 4k, but I have no doubt it will go the full 6k as reccomended for the Mobil products. I have logged 25,000 trouble free miles so far. I ride it daily. It's a TRUCK oil. It is also a very highly rated oil regardless of your intended use, and yes I get it at Wal-Mart.

Check out these links, then deside. There are plenty more too.
Oil Link...written by an engineer in the business
Oil info
What the STANDARDS mean

BTW My 1985 Mustang with a modified 5.0 which puts out over 325 HP has a T-5 five speed. It uses plain old ATF in the box and has 140,000 miles on it now.......I changed the ATF once so far, so tell me about how the gearbox in my Triumph is going to shear oil into junk in less than 3k to 6k miles? I know about different metallurgy and heat treating processes and I'd be willing to bet the gears in the Triumph are made of better stuff than Ford is using in a production T-5. So I'm sure the difference between brand 'A' and brand 'B' oil is not going to destroy the gears from a lack of lubrication. Just won't happen.

[ This message was edited by: Stlakid on 2006-11-07 22:55 ]
 

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I've also heard that Synthetic motor oils are an example of creative marketing. I've heard that in side by side tear down tests, they are in no way more or less effective than a high quality conventional oil.

I know for a fact that synthetic oils ruin rotary engines.

(don't ask me how I know that) :-D
 

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BTW My 1985 Mustang with a modified 5.0 which puts out over 325 HP has a T-5 five speed. It uses plain old ATF in the box and has 140,000 miles on it now.......I changed the ATF once so far, so tell me about how the gearbox in my Triumph is going to shear oil into junk in less than 3k to 6k miles? I know about different metallurgy and heat treating processes and I'd be willing to bet the gears in the Triumph are made of better stuff than Ford is using in a production T-5. So I'm sure the difference between brand 'A' and brand 'B' oil is not going to destroy the gears from a lack of lubrication. Just won't happen.

What does this have to do what I was talking about. Yes the metal gears are not the problem with oils. The concern goes with the WET CLUTCH. If we had a dry clutch system, as in the DUC, then there wouldn't be the problem.

Most of the car oils has the energy conserv additives. Which at the bottom of the page you linked says not to use this stuff

TECH TIP: One of the most probable reasons for a slipping clutch (assuming everything is adjusted OK) is the use of EC (Energy Conserving) rated oils. (Has an EC in the API - American Petroleum Institute) star logo. Not sure if you have them in HK or Yurp, or how they are marked (probably NOT with an API symbol!) but they are very common in the US, especially with the synthetic oils. The EC additives are VERY BAD for use with wet clutches, cause excessive slippage, and are difficult to wash out if used - might take several oil changes.

Copied from <http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/OILFAQ.htm> 04/02/2003
So what is it a whopping 1.50 extra quart for the Mobil 1 4T for piece of mind. Like I said before, the oil has nothing to do with the gears or engine. Yes they are fine for that. The reason to use the oils used specifically for bikes would be the wet clutch. And if you price say the mobil Oils for performance that doesn't have EC they are close to the same price. And before you call everyone WRONG, remember in the oil debates, it comes down to opinions more than anything. The links you provided didn't provide substantial scientifc research.

[ This message was edited by: TechmanBD on 2006-11-08 13:31 ]
 

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I will also quote this in one of your links

Mobil-1 automotive oils all contain small amounts of moly - about 100 to 200 ppm. This can cause clutch slippage in some motorcycles. I've only heard of this being a problem in Honda Shadows.
This is why if someone wants to use Mobil 1 because this is their preference, the use the Mobil1 4T made for motorcyclkes.
 

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What does this have to do what I was talking about. Yes the metal gears are not the problem with oils. The concern goes with the WET CLUTCH. If we had a dry clutch system, as in the DUC, then there wouldn't be the problem.
There are two fallacies the oil companies marketing departments put out. The first was the clutch slippage. You're buying into that one completely! Like I said, give me some proof, from anyone! Even the statement from the website is nothing more than someone heard it from someone that it might effect a Honda model. THAT'S NOT PROOF! And that's the way it was presented to you, not as proof to substantiate the clutch slippage claim.

When the word got out about the clutch slippage being Bull*hit all of a sudden there is information (also unsubstantiated) that the gears in the transmission will shear automotive oils to death because no car runs it's oil through it's transmission as well as the crankcase. Gee, you think the engine designers would have considered that issue?! That's why the fact that my T-5 has not self destroyed itself years ago proves to me that the shear problem is just as much hype as the clutch slippage issue. I would be willing to bet most of the manual transmissions out there (car units) go to the bone yard with the original ATF in them. That's not to say it's a good practice, it just shows the other end of the same issue.

I even ran ARCO GRAPHITE in the 900F for a while! If anything would 'F' up a clutch that would most likely be the oil that started all this *****! BTW I stopped using it just because it was so NASTY to use, and the same clutch in still in the bike today!

I agree if you feel better paying FOUR TIMES* as much for your oil, great, just stop telling people they will do damage to their bike IF they don't, because it just isn't true and that's why you can't find ANY substantiated proof to back up those statements. If there was MOBIL would have inundated us with the information, and they haven't. It's not like they couldn't afford to run the tests, if they haven't already.

* Triumph Mobil 1 is $58.00 and change plus tax. The Shell Rotella T synthetic I use is $13.50 for the gallon at Wal Mart.


I've also heard that Synthetic motor oils are an example of creative marketing. I've heard that in side by side tear down tests, they are in no way more or less effective than a high quality conventional oil.
I don't doubt it for a minute! This is where I get the warm and fuzzies by using a synthetic oil. But at least I'm not getting HOSED on the price with BS marketing. I know a few people using the Standard Retella T oil in their Sprints who ride a lot harder than I do and have no issues either. Not bad for a TRUCK oil for less than $7.00 a gallon! I saw an interview a few years back with the owner of a company that re-refines used oil. According to him when the process is complete 'There is no scientific way to tell their oil from the virgin stuff'! It just can't be done cheaply enough to convince people to switch to the recycled stuff yet.

I know for a fact that synthetic oils ruin rotary engines.
Inquiring minds want to know!


(don't ask me how I know that)
We already figured this part out!


:-D

[ This message was edited by: Stlakid on 2006-11-09 00:00 ]
 

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I did 140,000Km on my BMW K100RT with Mobil 1 car oil with an oil change every 8,000km (filter changed as well).

I sold it ten years ago and still see it around and believe it's still on the same engine.

I did 96,000Km on my BMW R1100RT with Motul V300 car oil and it still runs just fine, uses no oil, blows no smoke and feels as strong as the day I rode it out of the showroom.

I'll take my chances with car oil in my Daytona. The engine feels very understressed and able to take anything I can throw at it.

Linz :-D
 

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toesnose, I guess you've figured out that tire and oil threads get pretty invigorating.. LMAO

4T is just the latest (AFIK) family of oils to be compatible with wet clutchs, likely to be surpassed at some point in time. Depending on the composition of the clutch, other oils may/may not have a detrimental effect (slipping or siezed when cold).

As far as the synthetic vs. conventional oil debate...the synthetics have one very enduring charactistic...clingability. All of my OHC engines are quiter at cold start up with it.

Triumph lists 10W-40 4T in the fluids section of the owner's manual and if they're comfortable with it, so am I.

Stlakid, If you've not had to rebuild your T5 then either you've no torque or slippery tires...I can talk Mustangs all day long.

Brad
 

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Stlakid, If you've not had to rebuild your T5 then either you've no torque or slippery tires...I can talk Mustangs all day long.
No argument from me there! It was a daily driver and being it was an '85 it has the last 7.5" rear end, not an 8.8 version. I was careful not to hammer it at all! No 60' times were ever attempted and I was especially careful when shifting into third! :-D
 
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