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Discussion Starter #1
I just ordered a Meerkat X-Pipe (first power mod) for my 2016 TTR. I'm on a quest for more power (especially in the higher rpm range).

What should I do next?

Info I've gathered so far:
- snorkel removal - Is this what others call the "airbox mod"?
- better air filter
- camshafts (I have yet to find much evidence on the internet to support the idea that cams make a difference - i.e 1/4 mile or acceleration times and/or dyno charts.)
- Power Commander - the little info I have found is that the gains are very small especially for how much this unit costs.
 

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You are going to get a ton of suggestions and some criticism. Some suggestions will be hearsay, some from credible sources, some from people have made changes and have measurable data to support.

There are a couple things I know. Increasing motorcycle power is expensive. Most riders can't get the most of the power they have already.

If you want to go fast (top speed) then gearing and aerodynamics are good starting points. Stock Thruxton R top speed is about 131 mph, gearing and aerodynamics will get you to 138 to 140 mph.

If you want to quick (quarter mile) the stock gearing is very good but it takes practice. Stock Thruxton R quarter mile is about 12.2 to 12.6 seconds not corrected for density altitude. Corrected for density altitude 11.5 to 12.1 seconds.

You'll need another 8 to 10 horsepower + gearing + aerodynamics to get past 145 mph.

To get in uncorrected quater mile below 12 seconds you will need to get the first 60 feet in 1.8 seconds. This isn't a horsepower issue but a problem in launching this particular bike.

Horsepower is generally a good thing but it isn't the first or the most important thing to make this bike fast or quick.

Just my opinion. Like I said you'll get some great suggestions...weigh them carefully.
 

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I may be wrong but I imagine the OP is looking for a bike that feels faster on the road rather than chasing a higher top speed or quarter mile time.
I don't think the Thruxton 1200 engine is one that encourages high revs, in fact I think the power starts tailing off well before the redline, I don't know your bike history but I came from a sports bike (and still have one) and was riding the Thruxton the same way at first but now I've got used to the bike and use more of the mid-range torque.
There are dyno graphs on here (not from Thruxton) that shows that the tec cam does a lot to change that power curve at the top end but with a small loss at the bottom end.
I haven't seen any evidence of a gain from changing the air filter, and I've had the snorkel on and off and haven't noticed any difference although it may be different with a remap.
I think fitting your decat and then a remap via TuneECU if you're happy doing it yourself or a PC 5 and a dyno tune by somebody else would show a good improvement.
a benefit of going the tune ECU route is that throttle maps can also be changed to make the bike feel quicker without increasing the actual horsepower, also the standard map reduces the throttle to 80% as you approach full revs even with the twist grip fully back, that can also be changed on Tuneecu.
Active thread here
https://www.triumphrat.net/water-cooled-twins-technical-talk/961626-tune-ecu-tuning-for-water-cooled-bikes-12.html#post2004008154
 

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The power tails off just before the redline simply because the EVT mapping is set that way.
The race cam (it's not by TEC, they just copied the official unreleased Triumph one) makes quite a big difference and is very noticeable.
Snorkel removal makes a good difference in the mid-range, nothing up top, but since it's free it's worthwhile.
PCV tidies up things a lot. Fueling benefits from it, with more responsiveness and some extra top-end torque when combined with a decat.
I'll get around to measuring my setup with a TuneECU applied map sometime soon. The PCV is much easier to map with as it's real-time, but I'll check it out on our dyno with the PCV map applied at some point.
K&N or DNA air filter makes no difference whatsoever.
Here's a comparison of swapping out the cam on an already-tuned 2016 TTR with PCV and decat. Yes, it makes a lot more from 6000 upwards, and loses some at the lower end, but still more than stock across the whole range.
 

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What's your target? What's your budget? What are you needing this power for (top speed, 1/4 mile, try to keep up with 1000cc on a track day, just because you can)? If you got the cash order a supercharger kit and a tec cam with some new mufflers and get that all tuned up. That's probably about 170hp.
 

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What's your target? What's your budget? What are you needing this power for (top speed, 1/4 mile, try to keep up with 1000cc on a track day, just because you can)? If you got the cash order a supercharger kit and a tec cam with some new mufflers and get that all tuned up. That's probably about 170hp.


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Age old problem, I'm thinking some day the mods will be there, now it's just fettling to squeeze less than 10hp out of that unit. I'm happy with mine partly because my license is clean, I'm old, drivers are careless and I have faster bikes. A friend who has a flat rack team has dynoed a 900 to 90+ hp with his mods, of course it's a carb conversion with a cam grind, head work ,balancing, no counter shaft, new frame etc. It would run on the road but not very tractable. The 1200 would require thousands $$ and many man hours to get it to the kind of power you are seeking. Good luck in your chase.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have an Aprilia RSV4 that is strictly for track duty so I am not trying to replicate a sport bike.

All I want to do is increase the fun factor in the 30mph to 100mph range. I don't really care much about 1/4 times but increasing the 1/4 mile trap speed would interest me figuratively speaking.

The supercharger kit is nice but excessive.

I'm happy with 10-15 more HP. I think that would be the sweet spot for me.

I have read that the Triumph mapping reduces throttle opening to 80% above 6k rpm? If this is true this SHOULD be my first step in increasing performance no? That is a huge hinderance if this is true. I was told by a forum member that Tecu or whatever its called is now able to do that?

Thanks guys for the guidance so far.
 

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If that's what your after, then playing around with tuneecu, x pipe, mufflers, drop in filter should do it for you. You can also do a Cam but from what I've seen it shifts the curve more towards the top end so you loose a little in the mid range. See the later posts on this thread for a tec bike parts Cam impressions from kiwi Dave. https://www.triumphrat.net/#/topics/959274
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If that's what your after, then playing around with tuneecu, x pipe, mufflers, drop in filter should do it for you. You can also do a Cam but from what I've seen it shifts the curve more towards the top end so you loose a little in the mid range. See the later posts on this thread for a tec bike parts Cam impressions from kiwi Dave. https://www.triumphrat.net/#/topics/959274
Thanks! I was hoping to order TuneECU and the BT dongle and upload Diva's latest tune but she removed all her files unfortunately. Will I still be able to download any tunes TuneECU has readily available?
 

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Just remember that Danielle's tunes are not generated or tested from a tuning process, only from feel or 'bum dyno'. The Air/Fuel map many people are adjusting is an interesting beast. It can't possibly set the target ratio because the bike has a narrow-band sensor, so the ECU simply uses this as a relative adjustment to what it imagines the mixture might be given a stock setup. E.g. if it says 13:1, it guesses at a 13% increase in injector timings as that's the difference between 14.7:1 and 13:1. Of course, if your bike doesn't know when it is at 14.7:1 due to setup changes, it might as well be considered an 'F' fueling trim map. Sure, it applies to the 'L' map too, but that only kicks in at low rpm so I don't bother with it.
Tuning properly with TuneECU is painful. A 20min nervous wait after modifying each section is hugely time-consuming, whereas a PCV is dynamic alteration, so is many times faster. You can then apply a PCV tune in TuneECU, and it modifies the F and I trim tables, so when you apply them they modify the default F and I maps appropriately.

I guess overall I'm suggesting that fiddling with the TuneECU settings is not a great idea unless you know what you're doing and have a means of measuring the results. I'd suggest you only apply maps for which you've seen dyno runs with A/F readings, and only apply those if you have the same setup as the bike measured.
 

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probably the cheapest is to replace sprockets front and rear, this will increase revs, acceleration and make it more zippy
 
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