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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was getting some of the bikes washed up this weekend and decided the T100 bars must be replaced with something closer to the bars on the '66 T120R. The 1200 sportster bars (argggh - a HD?) are pretty close to the Meriden bike's, but I can't bring myself to the heresy...
Also, check out the 2.5 gallon sleek gas tank.

Dick





 

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Hi Dick,
The more I read your posts, the more I think we must be related. :) There are many elements of the original Triumphs I prefer. I love the intangible aesthetic of the early bikes and wish in some ways the Hinkley bikes were a closer incarnation. Tank shape and clock position of course. I will go to D9's laydown clock mounting bracket at some point with relocated ignition switch to the center of the bracket...perhaps when I go in for round II of the LED cluster upgrade with diode #74 indicator bulb...the question is when, not if. I love the tank shape of the originals but don't want to forgo the capacity...but the handlebars of the later bikes is a bit of a head scratcher. I prefer the early bars as well Dick.
Since I like to sit a bit back on the seat of my Bonnie...a bit over where the strap used to be, I find the pullback to be a bit shy...even with my long arms...based upon a comfortable torso angle. The stock late model bars have 8" of pullback and I would like a bar with a 10" pullback or so...with a width of say 30" versus the ~28" stock bar width. I need to do a bit more research to find such a bar for my bike. I believe the cables will have to be changed and this of course ups the ante. If I had shorter legs, the stock bars maybe ok...but I find myself sitting a bit more rearward on the seat to take some of the knee bend out and this means I would like a bit more pullback perhaps coupled with a bit more natural sweep of the early bikes versus the more kinked bar shape of the new bikes.
One caveat Dick when it comes to fitting bars from other bikes. Check the knurl spacing. I haven't researched if there is perfect knurl alignment between Bonny and Harley bars. Luck may say yes but perhaps not. You don't want the knurl to stick outside the risers of course for the cosmetic eyesore it would create so something to consider.
Here is a manufacturer of interest that is said to provide good chrome quality:
http://www.thehandlebarcompany.com/harley-davidson-handlebars.html

Again...I need to do a bit more research...I don't think the Norman Hyde Western bar is what I want as I believe it maybe too wide with not enough pullback.
Cheers,
George
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks great,but you knew I would say that,huh.
Rodburner - That looks great!! I have a spare T100 tank as a result of a warranty claim and Triumph not wanting the old tank back - soooo your picture gives me the inspiration to try to do what you so successfully have done! Do you have a picture of the side view of your tank?

Dick
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
y...but the handlebars of the later bikes is a bit of a head scratcher. I prefer the early bars as well Dick.
The stock late model bars have 8" of pullback and I would like a bar with a 10" pullback or so...with a width of say 30" versus the ~28" stock bar width. I need to do a bit more research to find such a bar for my bike. I believe the cables will have to be changed and this of course ups the ante. If I had shorter legs, the stock bars maybe ok...but I find myself sitting a bit more rearward on the seat to take some of the knee bend out and this means I would like a bit more pullback perhaps coupled with a bit more natural sweep of the early bikes versus the more kinked bar shape of the new bikes.
One caveat Dick when it comes to fitting bars from other bikes. Check the knurl spacing. I haven't researched if there is perfect knurl alignment between Bonny and Harley bars. Luck may say yes but perhaps not. You don't want the knurl to stick outside the risers of course for the cosmetic eyesore it would create so something to consider.
Here is a manufacturer of interest that is said to provide good chrome quality:
http://www.thehandlebarcompany.com/harley-davidson-handlebars.html

Again...I need to do a bit more research...I don't think the Norman Hyde Western bar is what I want as I believe it maybe too wide with not enough pullback.
Cheers,
George
Thank you George. I too think 30" wide with 9-10" of pulllback is just about right for my riding position. Both of my '66s have 30.5" bar width; the '68 is curiously 30". I'm not sure about height, but it seems that 6" would be perfect. I will be very interested to see what you come up with. When I was racing flattrack I'd go to Flanders and have them make me a set of bars to my liking, but I think their manufacturing may now be done by an offshore subcontractor. I'll give them a call and see if they wil let me paw through their parts bin to find something closer to the Meriden bike's "horns".

Dick
 

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Dick...aside from the cosmetic aspect, have you considered adding a spacer under your risers? I am considering this. See below. I don't like the U shaped risers as much as Jim's spacers. As you know rise is about as important as pullback when it comes to reach because the same handlebars moved up via risers puts the bar closer to the shoulder joint reducing reach. Also..the bar can now be tipped back a bit for greater pullback with the same degree of rise i.e. clearance to the tank at full lock. This maybe a decent workaround to getting the bars back a bit without resorting to new cables which are likely needed for 30" long bars.
Cheers,
George
 

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I too like a wider bar, I got these flat tracker bars from mototwin. they are 35" wide and come with a longer stainless front brake hose included. I did not have to change the standard throttle cables or clutch.
I used a pair of 1" higher billet risers to give them a bit more height.
I find they give a very comfy riding position.
http://www.mototwin.co.uk/store/pro...d=240&osCsid=1ac1f8c49ca44420f0cb0ffaedd905eb

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dick...aside from the cosmetic aspect, have you considered adding a spacer under your risers? I am considering this. See below. I don't like the U shaped risers as much as Jim's spacers. As you know rise is about as important as pullback when it comes to reach because the same handlebars moved up via risers puts the bar closer to the shoulder joint reducing reach. Also..the bar can now be tipped back a bit for greater pullback with the same degree of rise i.e. clearance to the tank at full lock. This maybe a decent workaround to getting the bars back a bit without resorting to new cables which are likely needed for 30" long bars.
Cheers,
George
George;
The cosmetics of risers kill the utility of them for me, but I've been looking at the 2009 Thrux handlebar clamp assemblies - they are a bit taller. Knowing Triumph parts prices, however, it might be cheaper to buy a CNC tube bender and make my own bars :D Have you looked at the 09 Thrux lash up?

Dick
 

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Thank you George. I too think 30" wide with 9-10" of pulllback is just about right for my riding position. Both of my '66s have 30.5" bar width; the '68 is curiously 30". I'm not sure about height, but it seems that 6" would be perfect. I will be very interested to see what you come up with. When I was racing flattrack I'd go to Flanders and have them make me a set of bars to my liking, but I think their manufacturing may now be done by an offshore subcontractor. I'll give them a call and see if they wil let me paw through their parts bin to find something closer to the Meriden bike's "horns".

Dick
Dick,
I'm with you and George on this one...
My 1-1/4" homemade risers helped me a little, however they are coming off and I'm going w/ these from J&P Cycles...
30-1/4" W, 6-1/2' R, 11-1/2" PB, 7' CW...
Center width might be a tad wide, however may look just fine and room for on and off accessory mounting...
These are only a 1/2" higher rise, 1/4" wider and just a shade more pull back as what your describing...
I think I can live w/ it... Horn's they are...
Part # 5000050
Here is the link and then click on the spec's...
http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/Prod...0050&Ntk=sku_search&Ns=DefaultSort&results=10
http://www.jpcycles.com/catalog/2009Metric/?entrypage=223
It's the best I have found in my searching...
Mandrel bending=constant diameter throughout the bar, more difficult to make...
Other comparisons here...
http://www.sideroadcycles.com/ImportedMotorcycles/ImportHandlebars/StockBars78.html
Good luck and I hope this helps you both...
And at $30, no great loss if not acceptable...
Allin
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm getting a hard on looking at that 66 - is that normal ?:)J.B.
I'll take some pics of the both the '66's next to teach other this weekend and post - they are almost identical....and yes, I get a rise out of them too:D

Dick
 

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Great find Flaco. Thanks for posting that. Those bars look perfect in size and shape. And thanks guys for setting me straight on the riser thing. I thought adding Jim's spacers under the factory risers would be pretty benign in terms of appearance but perhaps not.

Flaco...some questions please based upon your research:
- Do those bars have any knurling such that there maybe concern with knurl alignment or sticking outboard of riser contact with the bars?

- Have you considered you may need new cables with those bars? I believe the length of the bars and pullback may move the controls enough to warranty new cables. I believe New Bonneville sells a cable kit that would work but this really increases the cost of this mod.

- Lastly...where did you find the spec for pullback of 11+"? Did you contact J&P?...as I couldn't find that spec in their description.

Many Thanks,
George
 

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Great find Flaco. Thanks for posting that. Those bars look perfect in size and shape. And thanks guys for setting me straight on the riser thing. I thought adding Jim's spacers under the factory risers would be pretty benign in terms of appearance but perhaps not.

Flaco...some questions please based upon your research:
- Do those bars have any knurling such that there maybe concern with knurl alignment or sticking outboard of riser contact with the bars?

- Have you considered you may need new cables with those bars? I believe the length of the bars and pullback may move the controls enough to warranty new cables. I believe New Bonneville sells a cable kit that would work but this really increases the cost of this mod.

- Lastly...where did you find the spec for pullback of 11+"? Did you contact J&P?...as I couldn't find that spec in their description.

Many Thanks,
George
There was one review you can click on. It doesn't appear in the catalog photo that there is any knurling, however an email to J&P would answer that. Yeah, I will order new cables ( Braided SS from BellaCorse ), but want them anyway on my handlebar quest.
Springs and other mods this weekend, so handle bars w/ be coming soon...
The spec's are on the web page, as well as the hard copy catalog...
Click on the spec icon toolbar above the description...(blue)...
There's nothing wrong w/ Jim's or my spacers as far as looks...
Just don't do enough for the position we are desiring...
These bars are as close to the Thunderbird bars that I really like.
Too bad T-Birds are 7/8"...
Arm position in mock-up test feels good...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Flaco - these bars look to be exactly what I've been looking for! I took the bars off my '66 and held them up to the T100 to see if the "old school" bars were proper - they would be okay if they weren't 7/8". I'll give JP a call next week. I don't mind swapping a few cables either; I have an unused clutch cable from an America in case the stock cable isn't long enough, and Barnett is happy to make any length custom cable while you wait in their will-call lobby.

Dick
 
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