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J

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250 miles on my new bonneville. That's my first 250 miles also, so I dont know if this is a dumb question, but here goes.

When I park, I've gotten into the habit of shifting into second gear, then tapping it down into nuetral, then shutting the bike off. All of the sudden, I have a hell of a time shifting into second gear with the bike running. Sometimes i have to hold the clutch with my right hand, and reach down with the other to pull up on the shifter, and I've got to pull HARD to do it.

Is this normal? I now just shut the bike down, and it shifts nice and easy, up or down, right into nuetral.

thanks guys.
 
J

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I should also mention, the bike shifts completely fine when it's moving.
 

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how much free play does the clutch have? if it has a lot, tighten it up at the lever till theres only a bit of free play...maybe a 1/4". If thats not it i dunno.
 

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G'day,

It really isn't essential to do that. Just pop it into neutral from 1st. If it happens to go into 2nd then drop it into neutral from there. However, if you feel the need to make more work for yourself and you do have trouble shifting into 2nd whilst not moving, try rolling the bike forward or backward a couple of inches to move the gear alignment a little.

If you continue to have problems then mention it at your first service. However, I wouldn't expect it to be a problem after that as you will have different oil and everything should be running smoother. On that note, you have the best bike so you should put the in best oil (full synth). IMHO

Have fun and enjoy the ride.
 

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...or you could just leave it in 1st gear if you're not going to be pushing it around. Just be sure to put up the side stand BEFORE you pull the clutch in and hit the starter button, otherwise NOTHING happens. These transmissions like to shift while the wheels are moving, so I oblige them. :-D

Larry
 

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Because he prefers to find neutral from 2nd. The shifting will get much smoother as you build time. I normally do the other, stop the engine while in 1st. Then if I need to roll the bike afterward, tap the shifter slightly into neutral with the engine off. Never had any problems with this.

I did move my key from the left to the right, since my clutch hand is normally busy during shutdown.

Otherwise, keep doing what your doing and see if it doesn't get smoother after a couple thousand miles. That won't take long.
 

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I purchased my 2003 T100 with 4100 miles on the odometer in Dec of 2005. Now, with 6000 miles showing, I am experiencing somewhat the same issue as you when attempting to go to neutral from first gear at a stop. Often, no matter how carefully I lift the shifter, the tranny jumps into second gear. it is easier to find neutral going from second than first gear. Since the bike upshifts and downshifts fine once underway, this is more of a minor aggrevation than a serious issue.

Although my clutch cable is adjusted per the 'book', I think I feel a slight amount of clutch drag that I'd like to eliminate. I'm not sure where to start on this, since I think the only user-accessible clutch adjustments are at both ends of the clutch cable.

Has anyone riding Bonnies or T100s had to replace either the clutch pushrod or the clutch release bearing to assure the clutch totally releases?

Kawasaki has a solution that eliminates much of this neutral finding problem. They call it, guess what, a Neutral Finder. They've design a mechanical device in the shift mechanism that makes it impossible to pull the tranny into second gear from neutral at a stop. From first, it goes to neutral and no further. Nice feature. Of course, once moving, it shifts like any other bike.

- Bob -
 

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J_J,
250 miles is still very new. The transmission will seem to loosen up a bit when you change your oil. Another thing to try is to move your foot forward, so the shift lever is further up on the arch of your foot, when parking. This gives you better control of the shift lever and helps with slipping through neutral and into 2nd, when shifting up from 1st. Personally, I like to shift into neutral while still rolling to a stop if I'm shutting down. The detent for neutral is not as positive as your forward gears by design. Under hard acceleration you don't want to find neutral when shifting from 1st to 2nd....but if it happens, thats what rev limiters are for.
Bob (ohiorider), neutral finders are a great idea. I believe , if memory serves me, the Royal Enfield 750 Interceptor had one as well.
 

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Jimi-X
The explanation about the neutral detent not being as positive as the others makes sense, and would explain why I sometimes go from 1 to 2 when I'm searching for neutral. Never thought of that after all these years and many miles. BTW - It's interesting to read that the big Enfields used a neutral finder. Indeed, the old is forever new.

Bob
 

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First things first......

-- DON'T FORCE ANYTHING! --

The fact that your bike's transmission is protesting, and that you're having to force it into gear is good indication that your chosen technique may be lacking.

Transmissions are funny, you will have to figure out what YOUR'S likes. I have found (as suggested above) that downshifting from second into neutral WHILE ROLLING at a slow speed, works for me. However there are those who proclaim that you should never stop at an intersection in neutral..... for fear that you may have to react to a car coming from behind you at too high rate of speed.

Your bike is new..... might just need to be run in (break-in). As a side note, I have noticed a distinct difference in running oil other than the Mobil 1 'T' that is marketed for our bikes (and sold only at Triumph dealerships). My bike shifts quieter, and snicks into gear easier with the Mobil 'T' blend.

You might also try blipping the throttle a little while searching for second and/or neutral. You gotta learn what YOUR transmission likes, and DON'T force things upon her.....
 

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Good advice Pat,
That is the No.1 rule with transmissions. If it resists, roll it, blip it, slightly engage then disengage the clutch, anything but force. While were on this topic, I have heard of people putting fully synth oil, designed for automobiles in their bikes. I was told that auto oils contain,..I think the term is "Variable Lubricant Conditioners" (whatever that means!?) and can affect clutch performance. I was told many years ago this would not just compromise clutch performance while running this oil, but after you change the oil to a proper motorcycle oil, the clutch may have become contaminated from using the automobile oil. The clutch in a manual automobile transmission is an external (not in the oil) dry clutch. I have always used the proper oil designed for the type of machine I am operating.I wouldn't do it, or personally know anyone who has, but I keep hearing these stories. Any experience or opinions on this. I will start a new topic.
Tony



[ This message was edited by: Jimi_X on 2006-04-23 12:53 ]
 

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Anyone that has owned an old Honda will find the Triumph twin shifts exactly the same. Old Hondas were hard to get into neutral. My new T100 (4 weeks. 1500 mile) shifts just like every Honda I ever had.
I changed oil at 450 miles. I used the Mobile 1 from the dealer. $48.00. I changed it again again yesterday at 1500 miles & used Castrol Syntec 20w50. $28.00. I have read that if the oil doesn't say "energy conserving" it shouldn't hurt the clutch. Also they say that "energy conserving" will be 10W30 or lighter. The Syntec is rated SM/CF.
Go to Google & type in "motorcycle oil". There are a couple of articles about oil & filters also. Also filter cross references. I bought a micro fine Pure One automobile filter. It is a little longer. Has a smaller micron rating.
I find neutral easy to get to from low. As easy as I am used to anyway. I park in low gear because the side stand doesn't go over center very well & I have almost had the Bonnie roll off of it. Especially down hill.
Kill it with the right side toggle & then turn the key off with the left hand. Bob.
 

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Bob,
Ya'no what bugs me about these lubricant sites?? They are just full of patented buzz words and terms. They make you convinced your making the right choice,....Maybe?! Why can't these manufacturers just say it like it is. Just lay your cards on the table. Is it safe and appropriate for motorcycles or not. Are certain types of wet clutches compromised or is it safe for all wet type clutches. Can the auto oil stand up for extended periods operating at high temps. like an air cooled engine does? Have you ever went on a petroleum site and tried to find out the exact blend of chemicals in a particular brand of gasoline? They seem to be so afraid of brand secrets being revealed, they depend on corporate jargon to sell the product. "Energy Conserving", "Variable Lubricant Conditioners"............I don't know. Maybe it's just me. I think its to make a few more bucks by being confusing.
 

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I don't ride my clutch at a stop. I downshift into neutral from second and leave it there while coming to a complete stop. I shift into first and go or I let my engine idle for 15 seconds to burn the excess gasoline off the rings then I shut it down.
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However there are those who proclaim that you should never stop at an intersection in neutral..... for fear that you may have to react to a car coming from behind you at too high rate of speed.
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He's right. It's a good idea.

I always laugh at people who rev their engine up and then turn the ignition off as the RPM's drop. That does nothing more than wash your cylinders and rings off with gasoline. That's really nice when you go to start your engine and there's no oil on your rings. Fuel injection is a different story. The gas is turned off with the ignition. :cool:
 
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Rained all day here, so I didn't get a chance to ride. Thanks for all the advice though. Good to know that a novice like me can come here for some solid info.

In the short 250 miles I've logged, I've never met a friendlier bunch than the other bikers I've met. Not that I consider myself a biker yet, but I sure have one hell of a bike.
 

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At 250 miles your bike is stillNEW Clutch drag is normal on a new bike It has to break-in as do the rest of the parts! I keep my clutck adjusted to 1/16" free play Now 3500 miles When you start cold the clutch is gonna drag a little cause the oil hasnt warmed up yet. I rev the engine a little w/ the clutch in then slow before doin 1st breaks the bond between plates(multiple) & avoidsthe big clunk on the 1st shift. As the bike warms up the clutch gets smoother. As the bike gets hot & multiple use -the clutch cable streches a little Thats why I keep the adjust to amax of 1/16" That grows (after a decent ride to aprox 1/8"+ then recedes to normal upon cool down. Break it in &keep it adjusted (cables need break-in too) It may take a few adjusts to get it where you want it Good luck + The oil thing check the post! :cool:
 
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