The primary chaincase drain is the larger hex-head screw at the bottom of the chaincase cover, between two of the smaller cover screws (hex or philips heads). It's just above where the bottom engine mount bolts to the frame.
When you take it out, oil will likely drip onto your exhaust and frame, so make sure you clean it off before running the engine.
If you look at the case, with the slotted plug in the center of the case.....look at about 5 oclock relative to the plug....it's probably behind the pipe and/or footpeg.
And when reinstalling the plug, use some sealer and don't put a lot of force on it...the outer wall of that threaded hole, is machined very thin.
[ This message was edited by: Mecchanica on 2006-12-02 15:50 ]
Use engine oil in your primary if you have the big vent on the top inboard of your primary case, as they share lube back and forth through the mainbearing and the three level holes. All 70 and later twins used this system as per original.
350cc or a third of a quart to start. The engine will adjust it automatically via the level holes.
I'd use a lighter oil for the benefit of the engine. 10W30 moves through the engine faster and pulls more heat from critical areas. You can also feed a little more to the top end by fitting a hose from the hole in the front of the timing cover to the rocker feed banjo, eliminating the hose from the frame/tank. You will then get full pressure from the main oil gallery all the time. You may have to restrict the fitting at the cover if you get too much flow. If you have the cylinders off, you can drill out the drain holes in the tappet blocks and get better rocker box breathing and better oil flow down the drains onto the cams and tappets.
most of the oil will end up in th' gears, lubing them as it should. but sometimes that clutch ball ramp and kickstart mechanism (esp. the snap-prone spring) would like a little bit to drink as well.
i heard a recommendation recently (from richard at GABMA) to ease your bike way over onto that side (as much as you can physically muscle it back and recover from) after a ride and let some oil run out on those parts so they don't rust.
of course, you "shouldn't" have any water in there anyhow, but that's just funny talk. any water that is in there should get hot and escape through a vent hole as steam, but no accounting for condensation.
and if you have yer haynes manual, you might be skipping over page 9. check it out.
[ This message was edited by: johnnypence on 2007-03-26 20:46 ]
ok checked the Haynes manual again and found 2 things, 1) it calls for about 500cc or 7/8 imp pint, and next page shows SAE 50 weight oil.
That seems fine and would fill the case a little less than 1/2 way. If thats true then i was low on oil for sure.
Does this sound about right to you guys..?
Thanks, starting to get it now.. (i think)
wheres the ***** drain plug... pulled one screw out that wasnt it... it never ends does it..
[ This message was edited by: glw on 2007-03-27 08:03 ]
The little nut on the big nut is the LEVEL INDICATOR. If you unscrew it and SLOWLY start filling the tranny case, you can stop when oil starts to dribble out of the level indicator. (no need to pre-measure)
The BIG nut on those two is the drain plug.
[ This message was edited by: GrandPaulZ on 2007-03-27 08:33 ]
Update:, crawled further under bike to have a look see and found a big bolt in middle of what i think is the gearbox, and a smaller one on the side of it.. the big bolt looked to have red oil on it, like it was trans fluid.. not sure..
[ This message was edited by: glw on 2007-03-27 13:17 ]
If you have the Haynes manual look in the back section where they discuss the 76 and up models .(I have a 77 which is the same as your 76 ).They say to use 90 weight gear oil.Believe it!Ther's a nice drawing in there somewhere showing the drain plug and the fill level plug inside that ;just fill untill it starts coming out the inner plug.
And don't forget there is a crankcase drain with a filter on it which you may want to clean in addition to the frame resevoir sump and filter.
Get a quart of a good synthetic hypoid gear oil, 75/85 wt. Drain you gearbox using the drain bolt on the bottom, the one with the level plug in the center. Lean the bike back and forth to get the most oil out that you can. Fill with half the quart of gearlube. Run it about a week, drain and refill with the other half of the quart.
You need the high pressure additives of the hypoid oil, the stinky sulfurous stuff, because old Brit bike gear sets are not lapped or honed after hobbing the gears and tempering, unlike the wetsump bikes. You do NOT want to use any engine oil or motorcycle gear oil, if you want the box to be (nearly) immortal. It's less critical with high mileage boxes, which have self-lapped the gears and shafts, but I'd still use the Hypoid synth. oil.
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