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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There is a lot of information in this forum about mods to regulators and heavier wiring for post 2002 Sprints, but I have an 01 RS that suffers with poor charging. I am new to Triumphs and over the weekend have had the battery flat, spiked the alarm, suffered the ECU light (3 cycles to reset). It has a new battery but I ride with headlights on all of the time and with both headlights wired for dip, I guess it is fighting a losing battle. The alternator is an ND unit and appears to have the regulator built-in. It also appears to only have one thinish wire and an earth lead coming out of it.

I have bought an Optimate and wil start to use that whenever it is left, but I would prefer and engineered solution.

Would it help to run an alternative heavier main feed direct to the battery (with fuse)?

Great forum - thanks to everyone.
 

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Hello & welcome

your problems are likely going to come down to the condition of your wiring & connections - maybe even as simple as the battery terminals themselves - or that on the alternator.
There is a replacement regulator available for the integrated style alternator on your bike, but honestly I've never seen a problem with it.

There are two connections to the alternator - one is the input to the field coil, which is at battery voltage when the ignition is switched on.
The other (larger terminal) is the output.

You might try checking the voltage at both the alternator output and at the battery itself. Check the voltage across the battery terminals at idle and again at ~ 5k rpm.

Good Luck!
 

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JohnNic,

I would heed what DEcosse says, since he definitely knows his way around Triumphs (he's posted some scary technical stuff, in case you're not aware).

I'm not sure what your mechanical abilities are, but you might want to also consider possibly rewiring your bike (since you seem to be having electrical problems). I remember reading something (in this forum) about wiring with heavier gauge wires, and with better connectors. I've never seen fit to undertake such an ordeal, but in a situation like yours, it's definitely something to consider. Personally, I'd start by stripping out all of the extra stuff, as in non-stock things to see if the problem persisted. There is always the chance that nothing's actually wrong with your bike or its wiring, and that the problem is with something that was added at a later date and time (like the alarm system).

Either way, good luck with however you proceed. Hope that this turns out to be a quick easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks

Brilliant response. Thanks very much, I'll try the meter. I am suspecting the alarm, but I'll check all of the connections. Do you think the alternator should be up to the job with lights on all of the time?
 

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Welcome

Hi and welcome to the forum JohnNic:)

As stated DEcosse is very knowledgeable about these machines.

Don and I ask all our new members to please acquaint yourself with our forum rules in the stickies at the top of the page:)

Enjoy the forum and hopefully you will sort your electrics out.

As a side note I have both an '04 Daytona 955 and an '04 Sprint ST both are ridden only on weekends and the headlamps are always on.

The only time I had a problem was once recently when I did something silly and let my Sprint battery drain over two weeks having left a GPS on and connected draining its power.
I have 62,000kms on the Sprint and that is the only battery problem I have ever had.

DaveM:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Test results

Thanks DaveM - more than happy with the rules.

Battery is reading 12.6V no load. At idle 14.6V, no change regardless of revs.

Checked load with alarm internal battery removed, alarm multiplug disconnected and fuse removed - 1.2mA.
Tried to check it with the alarm connected but it went off whilst I was checking it and took out the fuse on my multimeter.

Any suggetions as to how to check the load with the alarm on?

Charge rate seems good and without the alarm in circuit I guess the load is low and acceptable. I am expecting the problem to be the alarm. This is a Datatool Veto Evo.
 

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One thing that wasn't mentioned is the top alternator bolt is the system ground on the pre-'02 bikes. Take a look at that for cleanliness and security. On a bike your age it would be a good idea to start checking all the wiring connections making sure everything is clean and tight. This should include fuse terminal ends. A little contact cleaner and scotch brite do wonders.
Unless it was a daft battery or something else obvious like blue flame and black smoke I'd just start making sure everything was clean and secure and go from there.

I had a flaky front brake light switch on my '02 the other day and a little cleaning put it right.
 

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I think what you're calling load is drain current?

Your charging voltage sounds fine - that system rarely has problems (although nothing is impossible)

Check to see what your battery is really doing under a load test - just put your alarm back together and put your meter across battery terminals
Get three readings
1) Igntion Off
2) Ignition On
3) Headlights On

If your battery is sagging significantly in test 3, then it is not holding sufficient charge to drive the load.

I'm really suspecting bad battery - if it was completely drained sometimes they simply will not recover - especially if it was an AGM.
 
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