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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys
please read about my colegue Speed Triple
(i got Street Triple from 8 years)

He just bought a 2012/13 new type model
It has only 2000 km's.

The problem is i think with max power.
It could be seen from 180 km/h
it is hard to make 200 and
it is very hard to make 210 on a 1,5mile road.
(i can make 230 with Street but i got smaller sprocket on the front)

We have checked with tune ecu and map is 20517
and the number of loading maps is 1
Map looks quite the same like the newer 20656

Could You think it will solve itself in future
when we make another 2000 km's?
Or maybe 02 sensor is bad?
Any suggestions?

Thanks, Regards, Martin
 

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The bike is definitely going to not accelerate as fast at those speeds, but should have no problem getting over 120 mph. Especially on roads that long.

The O2 sensor is likely not a problem, and you did not mention an engine light or anything. Also under heavy throttle use, the O2 isn't being used by the bike anyway since it is operating in open loop.

If the bike has low miles the gas could be old, so run it to get that out and fresh gas in. Could try changing spark plugs and checking condition of air filter (not blocked or anything made a home in it).


These are just gemetal tune up things that may help. If he bought it from a dealer, and it seems there is a problem, take it back and have them look over it. If there is a newer map that works you could give it a try.

Also make sure none of the brakes are sticking and dragging which would cause issues too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for fast answer and hints.
We will check them, for now we have looked only at air filter and it is ok.

What about ISCV - is it possible I need to calibrate this thing and it will help?
 

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Does it have any problem making redline in lower gears?
I too would say look for brake drag (especially the rear)
Ride it without using the rear brake at all and check the temperature after the ride to see if any heat there (be careful not to burn yourself!!)

Is clutch slipping? make sure you have some slack in the cable and that it is not adjusted too tightly.

What is the serial number (last 6 numbers?
Std or 'R'?
ABS yes/no?
Std exhaust, Arrow or After-market?

ISCV will make no difference at high rpm, only idle
 

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What about ISCV - is it possible I need to calibrate this thing and it will help?
The only time I've had to adjust ISCV on mine is when I measured the cam clearance with the throttle open and it was much more than spec. It should .5mm I think. There's a tiny screw (size 7) that's hard to get to, which I had to adjust to get the cam within spec. I ran an adaptation using TuneECU and after that it idled and started better but made no diff to performance overall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for more hints
as to questions
Low gears performance looks very good
brake we will check but i dont think so
clutch is good, some loose is visible
serial 555413
std
with abs
it was with GPR cat back but now we mount stock pipes - no difference

I have read a little about it and i think problem is at open loop
at close loops ECM is changing parameters to have correct AFR ratio
but at high speed (throttle above 30%) there is no correction from ECM
and maybe thats why the problem is only at high speeds
Is it possible?
Some fuel pressure or air problems ?
 

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Fundamentally there is insufficient HP to overcome the drag at those speeds - which means it is either a low HP problem or a higher than normal drag problem
If it reaches redline in lower gears, that would tend to suggest it is not a fuel or air supply issue, but more a drag issue.
That is not absolute, but a reasonable prognosis (unless it already feels under-powered/laboured at high rpm in the lower gears)

If you keep it in a lower gear on a freeway, at high rpm - close to redline - with you following, does it smell rich? Or does the rider notice the temperature climbing? (which would indicate lean)
Is there any noticeable poor running of the engine under this condition at sustained high rpm?

It is not uncommon for mice to build nests in airboxes (which would make it rich)- but if you checked the air filter, this would not appear to be concern.

I would certainly start by loading the newer map 20656 or with the GPR, the 20524. You need minimum 95 octane (Euro std) with these maps, but imagine that would not be problem for you in Poland.

With TuneECU connected - in the 'tests' page, what are the MAP sensor readings for the three cylinders? (this might help indicate any serious air leak issues)

But I would also focus on the drag possibility - brakes and wheel bearings
 

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The weight and size of the rider is important too, that will impact top speed and drag.

Thinking now I remember before doing cams that up to 100 was easy and then 100 to maybe 120 was notably slower and over 120 definitely so. Now it will get to 130 before slowing down, but it took more power to do it to fight the drag. All numbers are mph.

Keep in mind this isn't an r1, the bike was built for a very different purpose than a 200 mph track bike.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What means "noticeable poor" ? A smoke?

Hot to make "doing cams" - it is a TPS and ISC stepper adjustment?
 

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I just mean the bike makes 130hp stock and wasn't built as a top speed bike.

Also I was referring to camshafts not an electrical component. Changing the originals with aftermarket parts.
 

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My 2013 would do 135 mph with a headwind uphill and 152 mph (both indicated not actual) in favorable conditions bone stock with flyscreen, bellypan, and a 175 lb rider.
 
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