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Dual USB charger, for those long trips. I wasn't using the factory GPS plug for anything so I cut the connector off and wired into that. This serves two purposes: 1) centralizes fuses/cleaner than having an in-line fuse holder; 2) ability to easily disconnect fuse for security purposes (i.e. no one can come by and drain your batt while yer not around).

If you decide to do this, be sure to replace the fuse with a higher amperage unit. The stock plug only 2amp but my USB pulls 3.1amp so I installed a 5amp plug. I thought the GPS nav connector was on switched power but apparently it's not so I wired the USB into a on/off rocker to save the batt when not in use.

Altogether, it cost about $12 for the switch/USB and about $10 for the power wires/connectors. If you already have connectors laying around, that was the bulk of the costs -- the power cable was only $1.50
 

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Hey Darth, is exposure to water a problem?
 

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How do you mean? The USB and switch are both (at least advertised) for marine use and the electrical are the insulated, heat-shrunk type of connectors.

I'm hoping water won't be an issue...
I was just thinking the the USB sockets being exposed like that might cause trouble ... guess the 'marine grade' takes care of that. Excellent!
 

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Yeah, water's gonna be a problem for that. Here's mine:


Cheers,
-Kit
 

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I was just thinking the the USB sockets being exposed like that might cause trouble ... guess the 'marine grade' takes care of that. Excellent!
Ahh, I get it out.. you mean in the little USB slots? If you look closely I'm holding back the cover that *hopefully* seals the slots from rain exposure. The weather has been too nice to test it lately!
@KitNYC Where did you find that one? Is it a USB or power socket?
 

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Oh, I thought that was another farkle! Yeah, that looks like a well-designed cover; you'll be fine. :)

Mine is actually a power socket for a truck or trailer, but I have a flush-mount dual USB charger in it. I had had it kicking around forever when I finally had a need for it on an upcoming road trip. I hadn't installed it because I didn't really want to drill a hole in the fairing, then I realized my keyless ignition mod had left me with a perfect place to mount it.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Rear brake/tail light indicator mod. Strip of white LEDs, strip of red, packet of orange/yellow ultra bright, two resistors, wife's hair dryer and all purpose clear glue.

Pull your rear light out, heat up the join with the hair dryer and gently pride apart with wide chisel or similar to her inside light casing.

I used a piece of thick cardboard and cut it to same shape as housing and stuck 2 White led strips top and bottom for tail lights. Then red strip in across centre for brake light, and wired them straight to normal brake tail wires.

Indicators I drilled 5mm holes into rear light around edges (do whatever design you like) making sure you drill holes slightly angled up and straight back, not perpendicular to lense. Insert 5mm LEDs and glue from inside, add resistor at end of each string then wire directly to indicators. Original bulbs I removed and only kept original screw in base and fed all wires through them into light housing, glued cardboard cut out in and glued light casing back together. It is very important to ensure indicator LEDs are facing directly rearward
And slight up so drivers behind see full brightness
 

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Extra button on left handle bar control for 1050's

It's been a while since I did this and I neglected to keep good notes, but...
The left handlebar control on the early 955 Sprint's have a hazard light button which makes an excellent fog light on/off or anything else you'd like it to be on a 2005+ Sprint, while looking OEM. The connector is identical and only differences are in the highbeam wiring. If I remember correctly, bridging Blue w/Yellow stripe wire with the Brown wire restores the 1050 ST highbeam functionality (switch and pass button). Wiring to the turn signal & horn are identical between 955 and 1050. You'll also have to splice in the clutch switch, or eliminate it and close that circuit. If anyone needs, I can send you the wiring colors to each button / switch in the 1050 vs 955.:smile2:
 

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^ On another topic, I like the hand grips ... they're like those I have on my bicycle. distributing the pressure over the palm. Are yours made for cycles or did you adapt bicycle grips?
 

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Good catch! I swear by these grips. Single most important ergonomic, fatigue-reducing improvement I've made to the bike. My hands used to cramp up with the minimalist Triumph grips. Yes, they're mountain bike grips, and sourced from MEC (Canadian outdoor store, similar to REI). They're the only ergonomic grips I could find that: 1./ did not have a lock ring 2./ had flat ends on both sides (to mate the bar end and control) 3./ do not have a stiff inner-liner.

They're inexpensive but you'll need to bore out the right side grip, then struggle, sweat, swear (!!) getting it onto the throttle tube, especially if you have heated grip elements affixed to the tube. Be careful to plan out the angle before pushing them on as they don't slide around once in place, and you only have minimal adjustment angle with the throttle tube clamp.

As an aside, I've tried BMW touring grips, pro-grip 761 ( thicker in the middle), along with throttle rockers and though better than stock are not nearly as good as these. I have "ergon" grips on my mountain bike, which was the inspiration. I emailed them and a few other companies to inquire about MC grips but they're not interested in expanding their market for whatever reason. Go figure.
 

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Good to know. It would be great if some company make motorcycle specific grips like this. How did you 'bore out' the throttle grip?

With your comments about heated grips I'm not sure I'd go for it.
 

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Extra pannier storage

I couldn't find any readily available cargo nets to use inside the lids of the ST panniers. I searched here and Google, and while there are some nets out there, most were either too big, too far away or too expensive. A quick browse of the Harbor Freight website turned up these for only $3: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-ball-stretch-cord-set-47302.html and they work great for securing smaller items (yes, like my Popeil Pocket Fisherman lol). I'm not sure what everyone else uses, but a search of the forum and online didn't turn up much.
 

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It's been a while since I did this and I neglected to keep good notes, but...
The left handlebar control on the early 955 Sprint's have a hazard light button which makes an excellent fog light on/off or anything else you'd like it to be on a 2005+ Sprint, while looking OEM. The connector is identical and only differences are in the highbeam wiring. If I remember correctly, bridging Blue w/Yellow stripe wire with the Brown wire restores the 1050 ST highbeam functionality (switch and pass button). Wiring to the turn signal & horn are identical between 955 and 1050. You'll also have to splice in the clutch switch, or eliminate it and close that circuit. If anyone needs, I can send you the wiring colors to each button / switch in the 1050 vs 955.:smile2:
Thanks for this post Lugan; I'll be doing this mod sometime next week. Sent you a PM for the wiring info, unless you want to post it here.
 

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I couldn't find any readily available cargo nets to use inside the lids of the ST panniers. I searched here and Google, and while there are some nets out there, most were either too big, too far away or too expensive. A quick browse of the Harbor Freight website turned up these for only $3:
Nice idea! I think I'll do the same as I like to keep an extra set of gloves handy and this would keep them accessible.
 

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Heated Grips not hot enough on 2004 triumph sprint ST.

I wanted to get more heat out of the OEM Triumph grips.

I had heard that the relay contacts that sit under the front cockpit near the headlights can get corroded or worn or just plain lose. After checking this I found that I still had grips that were not as hot as I would like them, perhaps the gloves perhaps my subjective assessment.

So... if the switch has a high and a low position, what is making the grips get hotter on one setting than the other.
I took the switch off and checked its continuity and it was just a plain rocker switch without any circuitry so it wasn't in the switch itself... Then it dawned on me, its gotta be in the wiring to the switch. I checked the resistance of the wires and sure enough the wires that go to either end of the rocker switch were different resistances. Eureka ! I've found how they regulate the current going through the heating elements in the grips.

So I decided to cut oh... about a foot from the cable, knowing that I had a spare in case it went pear shaped. Well when I re attached the plugs to the now shorter wires, I found that the low and high settings were now warmer.

So... just a note to anyone wanting more heat from their OEM triumph grips.

first check that your relay is not corroded(pins) or worn. These are just standard 12v car relays but there are 2 different relay pin configurations so make sure that your replacement is the correct one with the same number of pins as well.
check that your switch is providing good continuity both ways.
check that your wiring from the grips down to the rest of the wiring is intact and doesn't have any cracks or breaks.

If you are convinced the circuit is operating and in good service, then go ahead and shorten the wire(s) to the side that you want to increase the temperature of. If low is fine but you wish high had more power, then reduce the length of that wire by about a foot. You'll find that the heat from your grips can be much hotter, depending on how much you'd like to trim. take it in smaller steps if you like, but I found that about a foot did fine for me as the wires are about a metre and that represents a rise of about 30% which suited me.
 

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After improving heated grips heat... replace the grips.

So..you've improved your OEM heated grips temperature, but you notice that the grips are looking a bit worn.

You'd like to keep the original looks of your bike, but you aren't keen on replacing the grip AND the element n wiring.

Well, if you're careful and patient, you can remove the original grips with a screwdriver and compressed air or simply cut them off with a stanley blade.

You'll find the non heated Triumph grips are the same as the heated ones and cost 20.00 AUD each.:smile2:

http://www.peterstevens.com.au/sprint-gt-heated-grips-a9638007.html

Just be sure to purchase two right hand (throttle tube) ones :| so that they'll fit over the left hand heating element. You'll also need to remove them off the new throttle tube as you'll be using the original on your bike with the element already connected.

Use isoproyl alcohol which is cheapest at an electronics store:grin2: here in Australia. Squirt some into the grip hollow and onto the bare grip element and slip it onto the handlebar. BUT wait before riding, for it to dry fully or it will start to move on the tube. You can turn the heater elements on to assist the alcohol evaporate.

Looks original, Costs $40 AUD grips well , without adhesive.:grin2:
 

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