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Discussion Starter #1
From reading on this forum I've learned a few tricks that I'm planning on doing soon.

Change the front sprocket to 18T
A mufflerectomy ( preach mod) of some sorts for my 2001.

What else? Is there an Air filter that ties in well?
What tune should I run on my 2001?

what are some other nifty tricks that I can do?
I'm searching the site, but figured some of the old silverbacks could chime in

Oh I almost forgot, what about Spark plugs? just trying to think of all
teh hotrod tricks I've learned over the years that might apply to my Blue angel


[ This message was edited by: REGULATOR on 2004-08-05 04:55 ]
 

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Probably the cheapest and most far ranging mod I've had done is to up the fuel pressure from the stock regulator setting of 40 psi to 60 or more.

It doesn't change anything but provides for a bit more richer mix throughout the entire mapping range which is what these babies need as they are mapped lean. I also believe that it provides a better spray pattern from the injectors.

It is much better behaved with absolutely no snatching off idle and just sings. MPG is still in the 48-56 MPG range depending on what I'm doing. Will also power the front off in 1st,2nd+3rd.

This is easily done by modifying the existing fuel pressure regulator or if you have a nice dealer he should give you one as he should have some recalled ones laying around. They might be a bit noisy but they work fine.

I'm working on a tech set of photos to share. But all that is necessary is to use a set of fitting sockets and squeeze the regulator spring hat to put more preload on the regulator spring. My dealer who recommended this had the whole thing done in about 15 min. and charged me $20. for labor but he did something else too at the time.

Though I don't recommend the hi flow air filters if you do put one on especially with a can you will need the extra fuel that the stock maps still won't provide as they are still on the lean side. This can be proven with the use of a TuneBoy/TuneEdit.

Don

from one of the "Old Silverbacks" :-D

[ This message was edited by: dolson on 2004-08-05 19:51 ]
 

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Hi All,

03 Sprint ST
First baffle is a vertical steel plate aprox. 8-10" from the outlet of the pipe. Drilled a one inch hole.
This imp[roved the sound by making it deeper but gave no significant hp gain.

The second baffle is aprox. 16-20" in and is just before the inlet of the can. I drilled a one inch hole in this also. This increased the volume of the exhaust a little, but it gave a very different growl to the note. This also gave me a defined boost in go. And no this isn't just a seat of the pants thing. I noticed a faster climb ot redline and throttle only wheelies in first and second are pretty much on demand. I also noticed that the nose know elevates during hard acceleration and I have to watvh that in corners.

I will NOT recommend anybody do this! If you do so it is on you. BUT from what has been posted here it sounds like the 03's have two baffles and the earlier ones only have one. Drilling that baffle should change the note and possibly give a few ponies up. I do have a slight stutter off idle when cold but that has always been there. I have no clue as to what tune is in my bike.

Preachp
 

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Bob that fender!
Cut the rear fender along the mold seam. File and clean up the cut. Now take your original license plate holder and flip it up-side down and remount it to the rear portion left showing which will be the rear most point of the under tray area where Triumph packs the tail light wires and turn signal wires. (I trimmed mine a bit, but it's not really necessary.) I suggest you lay out the height with the plate installed and any frame you may wish to use to check for interference. I used an aluminum black minimum frame and it tucks up very close indeed. Re-drill the sides of the same storage area (which is visible below the bodywork) for your turn signals. (reuse stock or get some smaller ones if you prefer) Price.....$0.00 to $25.00 depending on how much you spend on frame and or new turn signals!

Hint: If you want to use aftermarket turn signals the Stock Triumph connectors used on the turn signals is a standard .093" Molex connector available at any good electronics store. The connections are available at Radio Shack as well, but they do not carry the single Molex Male and Female body's.
 

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Bob that fender!
Cut the rear fender along the mold seam. File and clean up the cut. Now take your original license plate holder and flip it up-side down and remount it to the rear portion left showing which will be the rear most point of the under tray area where Triumph packs the tail light wires and turn signal wires. (I trimmed mine a bit, but it's not really necessary.) I suggest you lay out the height with the plate installed and any frame you may wish to use to check for interference. I used an aluminum black minimum frame and it tucks up very close indeed. Re-drill the sides of the same storage area (which is visible below the bodywork) for your turn signals. (reuse stock or get some smaller ones if you prefer) Price.....$0.00 to $25.00 depending on how much you spend on frame and or new turn signals!

Hint: If you want to use aftermarket turn signals the Stock Triumph connectors used on the turn signals is a standard .093" Molex connector available at any good electronics store. The connections are available at Radio Shack as well, but they do not carry the single Molex Male and Female body's.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've begun my quest for a new pipe because I don't think I can "mufflerectomy" my 01 pipe that well.
So I'm looking for a cheap Stock pipe to butcher.
I'm also looking for the Part Numbers ( seen somewhere on this site) For
Front sprocket 18t ( less expensive non triumph?
I'm going to ask my dealer if he haas one extra laying around.
seen the suggestion to go to a 45 on the back as well?

Will have to talk to my dealer about the Fuel pressure mod as well.

Thanks
 

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On 2004-08-08 04:21, REGULATOR wrote:
I'm also looking for the Part Numbers ( seen somewhere on this site) For Front sprocket 18t ( less expensive non triumph?
Here's a cut and paste of a post that I made a couple months ago about an aftermarket 18 tooth sprocket that I bought:

The sprocket that I bought is made by JT Sprockets. I just checked my Parts Unlimited catalog and the retail price is $22.95. I get a 15% discount through a local dealer which brought my price down to $19.51. The sprocket does not have the rubber dampers, but I can't detect any noticable change in chain noise or vibration. I have the "off road" muffler on my bike so maybe with the stock muffler I would notice a difference.

The part number of the JT Sprocket that I bought is JTF180-18. If you're interested in buying one and can't find a Parts Unlimited dealer, let me know. (Although, most motorcycle shops of any size are Parts Unlimited dealers)


Mike.
 

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Question to Preachp.
Would you mind elaborating on "drilling a 1" hole" in the baffles please.
EG what size is the existing hole ?
to drill that far in needs a decent length drill...do I have to
take off the pipes and take them to a fitter/machinist or is
there a way to do this in situ on the bike?

Do the existing pipes get noisier with age and use. I've only 2,000 kms on mine
Excuse my ignorance here. Many thanks! :???:
 
G

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On 2004-08-08 04:21, REGULATOR wrote:
I've begun my quest for a new pipe because I don't think I can "mufflerectomy" my 01 pipe that well.
So I'm looking for a cheap Stock pipe to butcher....
Thanks

I have a Sprint ST stock pipe that I bought on ebay a while back. I wasn't sure if it fit on my RS, alas it doesn't. It's in the original box, and has never been used. I tried to fit it and there are small scratches at the connection points as a result, otherwise it is flawless. If you are interested, I'd be more than happy to send it your way for what I paid, which was $30 plus shipping. Otherwise, it'll sit there collecting dust, until I can get off my lazy ass and ebay it. There is a stock number stamped on it if you want it for reference.



[ This message was edited by: DNK on 2004-08-09 11:03 ]
 

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On 2004-08-09 03:16, stevecro wrote:
Question to Preachp.
Would you mind elaborating on "drilling a 1" hole" in the baffles please.
EG what size is the existin to drill that far in needs a decent length drill...do I have to
Many thanks! :???:
Hi Stevecro,
You can go to a hardware store and buy twelve inch extensions (36 cm?) then get a metal hole saw and drill the hole. There is a second baffle at the inlet end, use two extensions and do the same thing. Both holes are made from the outlet end of the pipe.

There are no hole in the baffles. They (the baffles) deflect the exhaust gases through the perforated metal on hte sides of the can. This reduces noise but limits the exhaust gas velocity and volume that goes through the can. Drilling the baffles offers a less hindered exit for the exhaust to flow through without fully disabling the muffling effect of the can.
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
I know, I know everybody knows this already.
Preachp
 

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G'day dolson...
You mentioned tweaking your fuel regulator - sounds like a good idea - could you let me know the details of the mod (where the regulator sits, changes to the spring etc). I have the Triumph aftermarket can on mu RS + the appropriate mapping & the fuelling is definately weak with severe popping on the overrun. Any details would be much appreciated..
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #18
DNK, Yes I'd be interested in getting the can,
But what year is it?

My 2001 can does not appear to have the multiple baffles others speak of.
Mine you look straight down into and see a curved/ angled piece of metal which
appears to be almost at the very back of the can.

I'm still hoping someone can take a picture so I can see what the others are refering to.
 

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thanks for the prompt response PreacherP.
That's all clear now. I may start with just the outer baffle and take my chances with the "noise police"
steve
 

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beers2u, yes, I go about things a bit off from the thundering herd. For instance I tuned a 1957 Ford T'Bird with a stock 4bbl Y block engine that ran 16.5's at 92 mph in the 1/4. It runnered up at the national Oldies but Goodies race. It ran 16 races that day and didn't vary more than .03 all day long. The reason we got first loser is because it broke out. (Ran too fast in the finals) but we still made it into 3 national publications.

I like to work with what I have and try and make the best of it. Optimize that and then go from there.

To the others that are interested in the fuel pressure thing I need a little time to get the tank off, get some pics and take some measurements which I'll post in our tech album.

Don
 
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