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I’m installing a 3 Phase Podtronics regulator / rectifier on a ’79 Triumph T40E. I’ll be installing the unit on the bottom of the battery tray and have a pretty good handle on how to wire it, but have a couple of questions;
  • Where is a good ground location? I’ve read that the location of the old Zener diode or rectifier are good spots. However my Zener was installed on the aluminum airbox, and the rectifier was installed on the rear fender. These do not seem like good grounding locations. How about running a ground wire to the ground point on the head steady? Also should the ground wire have a fuse?

  • I understand that the wire to the Zener should be terminated and taped off. The Zener connecting on my bike has two Brown/Blue wires going into a single spade connector. Same with the power wire to the rectifier. I believe that one of these wires come from the ignition switch. Do I leave these two double wired spade connection intact or do I need to separate them and only tape off one of them?
Thanks,
Bob

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Hi Bob,

installing a 3 Phase Podtronics regulator / rectifier on a ’79 Triumph T40E.
Where is a good ground location?
Nowhere. Your bike doesn't have "ground" in reality, just Black wires and other bits of bike attached to battery negative and other-coloured wires attached to battery positive.

Pod fitting instructions are ridiculously over-complicated about "ground" that doesn't exist on these old bikes. :rolleyes:

Your Pod has two DC wires - Red and Black; attach the Red wire to the battery +ve terminal and the Black wire to the battery -ve terminal.

Put a fuse holder in one of the wires (doesn't matter which one) with a 15A fuse if the alternator is standard 120W or a 20A fuse if the alternator is high-output 180W.

wire to the Zener should be terminated and taped off. The Zener connecting on my bike has two Brown/Blue wires going into a single spade connector. Same with the power wire to the rectifier. I believe that one of these wires come from the ignition switch. Do I leave these two double wired spade connection intact
Yes.

or do I need to separate them and only tape off one of them?
No.

How about running a ground wire to the ground point on the head steady?
Different part of the electrics, nothing to do with fitting any reg./rec..

Nevertheless, it's wise for the engine to have an actual electrical connection to the battery negative terminal. On a '79 T140E, look for a Black wire connected to an engine bolt or stud; if you can't find one, I advise making one.

should the ground wire have a fuse?
As your bike doesn't have an electric-starter, the 'main' or only fuse should be in the one-and-only Black wire actually attached to the battery -ve terminal.

Because Lucas originally put the single fuse in the one-and-only (Brown/Blue) wire originally attached to the battery +ve terminal, an educated guess says your bike has multiple Black wires attached to the battery -ve terminal? If so, you'd need to cut these wires off the (ring?) terminal attached to battery -ve, terminate them individually (I use crimp-on bullet terminals so I can use a snap connector to connect 'em back together) and connect a new Black wire - with what should be the new 'main' or only fuse/holder - from the connector to the -ve battery terminal. Post if you'd like to do this and I'll advise detailed specs.

While you're fixing dodgy bits of original wiring, look for a (Black?) wire attached to one of the Rita electronic ignition 'box' mounting bolts (not the Black wire that goes into the box through a grommet with all the other wires).

If you find a wire attached to one of the 'box' mounting bolts, trace it to its other end. If it isn't attached to the battery -ve terminal itself, it's as much use as a chocolate fireguard ... (n)

All except the last version of the Rita originally used the 'box' itself to protect the electronics from Voltage spikes from other electrical components. For this protection to work, the wire attached to the mounting bolt (and therefore the case) must be attached to the battery -ve terminal itself. However, this clearly wasn't communicated to either assembly-line workers, quality-control inspectors or dealers, because many of these bikes sadly still have the wire attached to a random bit of bike. :oops:

Depending whether or not you've decided to change the wiring connections to the battery -ve terminal:-

. if you're fitting a connector and attaching a new single wire with a fuse to battery -ve, the wire from the Rita 'box' mounting bolt should be connected to the new connector;

. otoh, if you're leaving the Black wires connected to battery -ve as standard, the wire from the Rita 'box' mounting bolt must be connected to the battery -ve terminal.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Stuart, I'm still a little unsure on the Podtronics black "ground wire". Do I attach the black wire directly to the battery -ve terminal, or to a stud on the engine?

Regarding the positive connection, the one large female spade connector that was attached to the Lucas rectifier with the 2 brown/blue wires is the hot wire going to the battery. Can I put a male spade connector on the Podtronics red lead and plug into that rather than run the podtronics wire to the battery?
Thank you
 

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Hi Bob,

Podtronics black "ground wire". Do I attach the black wire directly to the battery -ve terminal,
I do.

Regarding the positive connection, the one large female spade connector that was attached to the Lucas rectifier with the 2 brown/blue wires is the hot wire going to the battery. Can I put a male spade connector on the Podtronics red lead and plug into that
I don't.

Bear in mind irrespective of where you connect the Pod Red and Black wires physically, you're connecting electrically to the battery. That's why I connect the Pod Red and Black wires physically to the relevant battery terminals. Connecting the wires anywhere else simply introduces additional connections/potential failure points between Pod and battery. :(

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Stuart, Thanks for your help. I have a clear plan for the wiring now
Bob
 
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