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Had a reply from Sprint Manufacturing:

Hi Pat.
BE601 is not correct for your GT and newer 1050 Speed Triples as they
are fitted with a sealed needle roller bearing. Earlier models have a
separate seal next to the needle roller. The double ball bearing on the
other side is the same. Triumph main dealer is the only supplier at this
time.
Regards,
Trev.


We now know where these can be supplied from.

Pat
 

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Well everybody knows Triumph is a bearing maker :cool:
There's probably a ref on the bearing that can be used.

The problem w/ the integrated seal is that it's very difficult to thoroughly clean the bearing as dust gets trapped in the seal.

Fred
 

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For Sprint GT owners

I know this thread is more than a few months old now. I wanted to chime in that I have contacted every major bearing manufacturer directly and unfortunately nobody makes an equivalent machined needle roller bearing sized 45mmx55mmx25mm. The only thing remotely close is a drawn cup needle bearing made by NTN (Part number HMK4525) and it has fewer rollers and does not have machined sides like the OEM Triumph bearing has and the supplier does not recommend substituting it for a machined needle roller bearing. At this time it seems like Triumph is the only source for this part and unfortunately, for what it is, it's not cheap. Also unfortunately, the consensus seems to be that the propriety Triumph bearing made by INA (in slovakia) is of lesser quality and will continue to give us issues regardless of maintenance routines.

Here's hoping that someone eventually starts producing a proper replacement. :frown2:
 

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So I figured I'd throw in some info that I gathered. I bought a 2006 Sprint last spring. It had about 46K miles on it, and there was no indication in the maintenance log that the bearings had ever been touched. I fiddled with the wheel while the bike was on the center-stand, and didn't notice any issue. But when pushing the bike around the garage, I could sometimes hear a distinct click sound. Chain and sprockets looked more-or-less OK, but per maintenance log they had about 20K miles on them, so I changed them out. No change in the noise. I decided to pull the eccentric hub and replace all the bearings. The sealed bearings looked fine and rolled smoothly. The needle bearing also looked fine, and spun fine on the axle. Obviously there was something wrong in one of them, but I probably caught it early, and it required the weight of the bike on the axle to cause the noise.

Since I had new bearings, I went ahead and used them. I did notice that the needle bearing I got from Triumph had the same physical dimensions, but had more rollers than the one I removed. I'm guessing they changed the design slightly; more rollers should mean that each roller has less load on it.

Thanks to OnD, and everyone here, for the advice on the procedure, and the knowledge that this is a common issue. You may very well have saved me a very expensive crash, or hundreds of dollars in extra damages, if I hadn't known to dig into this...
 

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It was the 45x55x20 mm Triumph part T3800220. The 25mm wide one with integrated seals was only used on later bikes, to my understanding (I'm assuming that those are the two parts that you mentioned, but I don't recognize the part numbers).
 

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You're right. I forgot to convert the wot ref into triumph ref.
On the gt only the 25 mm is listed. Cost an harm but not so much more than a car bearing.

Fred
 

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I'm in the middle of this project on my 2007 Speed Triple and it's taken multiple days because of a variety of reasons. Mainly lack of experience and not having a proper work space.

A few years back, I just opened it up and lubricated the needle bearings. This time, I'm removing and replacing the bearings. I do think that it's proper workmanship that even if you only lubricate, you should remove at least the needle bearings on the right side of the hub. But best to remove all and inspect.

Here are a few pointers:

1) Make sure that you received the right parts before starting. I ordered the bearings about 7 years ago and am just using them now. The sealed bearings I received are the wrong outside diameter.

2) it appears that Triumph changed the sealed bearing size on the left side. The stock arrangement is two Koyo 6208rs, which size is 40x62x12. I've checked three Triumph sites and it's changed to one 40x62x24. It costs like $80 from Triumph. You can get it from reputable bearings supplier for less than half. Remember, Triumph doesn't make bearings. So, it's likely that whatever you get for half price is the same as they use.

3) As for the bearing retaining rings, they don't have eyelets, so you can't use snap ring pliers. I used a thin screwdriver and a hook and pick set. I recommend replacing them instead of reusing them. Admittedly, I am reusing mine

4) Getting the one inner retaining ring that does have eyelets is a bitch to remove, if you're new to it and don't have the right tool. I went through three different types to find the right one. I used this one from Harbor Freight. https://m.harborfreight.com/8-...on-snap-ring-pliers-63841.html it worked well.

5) You need a work bench with great lighting. I'm in my 50s, so my vision isn't the best and not having a good workspace did hurt my back.

6) Others said it right, use a torch to heat up the hub to remove the bearings. It really helps. Freeze the bearings to put in

7) You don't need a vise, but it would help when driving the bearings back.

8) Don't be in a rush to do it. It takes time the first time.

Cheers.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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