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WOW Ond! You are da MAN!! :bow:

What a fantastic post with pics and Triumph should consider you for any future service manuals! Thanks!

Kev
 

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Yep. I figure anything for Mmagus. ;)

OND...Ok Iwas already impressed by your fantastic write up. Now I am just stunned. Thank you so very much! I am guessing that what took you an hour or so will take me the better part of the day. I would have screwed it up for SURE without this.

Thank you so VERY much!
:bow:
 

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OnD you have always been saint status to me but I feel that God status is warranted .... now!

You do stuff to figure it out and post the pics. I wonder if could do it without these types of pictorials and instructions.. :) Really nice work OnD
 

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Very timely post

Oldndumb, your post could not have come at a better time. I have 11,500 miles on my '08 and I am looking into this task. I have the book and have read that secton a number of times. I have done quite a few car wheel bearings with good results but this is my first shot at a bike. The added details and pictures are most helpful. For those about to get our fingers greasy, we salute you. (or in this case, fresh, unpowdered nitrile gloves).
 

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OdD,
Question:
What about the "peening" of the nut on the drive side.
Should one always use a new replacement nut. "Peening" is foreign to me.
Warden brings up a good point. I usually don't like regurgitating instructions because it seems senseless and often self serving to me. But Mmagus asked, and I agreed.

Since I undertook it, I should have included all safety related aspects. I've tried to edit my post to include the following. After two tries, and watching the dots go round and round like a Chihuahua chasing its tail, I figured my only option was to do a follow on post. :pC

Parts and Supplies
Cushdrive "stake" nut

Bearing Removal
17. The factory manual requirement is to install a new "stake" nut on the cushdrive side. It is possible to reuse the nut, if it was not damaged during removal, but it will no longer have the factory retention feature. It is an individual responsibility to understand that reuse is contrary to the manufacturer's recommendation. If you do opt to reuse the nut, inspect the upset portion and determine if any fractures are visible. If the nut passes inspection, and you opt to reuse it, you must inspect it for security on a regular basis after installation. Since the nut orientation will be very close to the original position, it is doubtful you will be able to stake/peen it again. An easy way to do a regular inspection is to apply a small paint stripe on the end on the nut and the axle shaft after final torque. That stripe will provide a quick visual verification of the nut security. In some industries the stripe could be referred to as a "torque stripe" while others call it a "witness mark".
 

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OnD,
Nicely done!

Now if you were a true British Tech Manual writer, you would make sure to place the 'Caution' statements AFTER the step.

For instance:

6) Clamp assembly in a sturdy bench vise.
7) With circlip pliers, remove circlip (A).

(Ideally, there is a page break right here)

CAUTION
Circlip (A) can depart the premises with great velocity, and may put an eye out.

NOTE
Circlip (A) is no longer in production, and in the event this part is lost or stolen, the motorcycle is rendered forever unusable.

Otherwise, a stellar write-up.

I need to look at PDs list to see what the seal specs are...


Edit - Re: the stake nut, last I checked, they're asking $25 or so for them.
 

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So true! :laughhard:

I've had all of that happen at one time or other. The only thing you left out in your critique was:

Please note that circlip engagement holes are unique so forget about regular circlip pliers fitting. This will usually be at the end of the procedure.

My notes say that the seals are 45x55x4. Verify with B'bandit or your dealer. I usually get mine from a bearing and seal house, but it can take up to two days if they are not in stock.
 

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I'll take your word for the seal size. I wonder if it is safe to assume all the SSSA Sprints have the same rear end?

I'll try to get a verification from my 'local' dealer.

I try to use the local shops when I can for bearings and seals. PDs list doesn't have the seals listed, and BB doesn't specify them, other than by P/N.
 

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True the B'Bandit listing is their in house number but I've used it to compare across the different models to see what is compatible.

You can also use their search to see what models a particular part number is used on. This feature works intermittently for me. I have found that it is usually reliable if you have the OEM number and specify an OEM search.
 

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This "cush drive" business is really getting me confused. What is it? Is it some pieces of rubber between a shaft hub and a sprocket? Is there a front and rear cush drive? What do they do? are they necessary? what are the symptoms of their failing? I don't want to hijack the thread, but I'm really confused on this, even after reading some threads revealed in a search.

Thanks,

---Charlie
 

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OnD,

Forgive me for picking nits...

The BB exploded drawing shows three seals. All are part number 8. One is shown outboard of the cush drive bearing, and then one on either side of the Needle Roller Bearing.

http://www.bikebandit.com/triumph-motorcycle-sprint-st-2003-rear-wheel-final-drive/o/m17626sch567549

Your writeup describes replacing two. Did you replace two or three, or is the drawing inaccurate?


Charlie,

The cush drive is a radial shock absorber. There are two sets of 'fingers,' on on the drive side, one on the wheel side. They interlock, but with a thick rubber 'cushion' between them. Look at part numbers 11 and 14 in the link above.

The 'cush' is there to soak up the high frequency shocks in the driveline.
 

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This "cush drive" business is really getting me confused. What is it? Is it some pieces of rubber between a shaft hub and a sprocket? Is there a front and rear cush drive? What do they do? are they necessary? what are the symptoms of their failing? I don't want to hijack the thread, but I'm really confused on this, even after reading some threads revealed in a search.

Thanks,

---Charlie
pushr0d explained it. This is B'bandit's illustration. Click it, then enlarge it with the magnify clicky and you should be able to read it.

Item number 20 contains the rubber portion. The rubber piece is number 22.

TR-0606-308.jpg
 

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OnD,

Forgive me for picking nits...

The BB exploded drawing shows three seals. All are part number 8. One is shown outboard of the cush drive bearing, and then one on either side of the Needle Roller Bearing.

http://www.bikebandit.com/triumph-motorcycle-sprint-st-2003-rear-wheel-final-drive/o/m17626sch567549

Your writeup describes replacing two. Did you replace two or three, or is the drawing inaccurate?


Charlie,

The cush drive is a radial shock absorber. There are two sets of 'fingers,' on on the drive side, one on the wheel side. They interlock, but with a thick rubber 'cushion' between them. Look at part numbers 11 and 14 in the link above.

The 'cush' is there to soak up the high frequency shocks in the driveline.
Ok Pushr0d, I see it, thanks. And folks sometimes shim worn rubbers with innertube material, huh?

I'm feeling much better now. :D

Thanks,

---Charlie
 

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Thanks OnD, I think I get it now. Pushr0d's link was for a 2003 sprint, and yours is for a 2005 or later.

---Charlie
 
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