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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
The ends of the wires that connect to the caps is what I mean by fresh. Clean connections. The odds are against both sides having the same issue. Do you know anyone with a similar bike and year that you could swap out the ignitor with?
no i don't, i think you hit the nail on the head too
 

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'06 Speedmaster
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143 Posts
i suspect it's either one of the multitude of sensors or it's the igniter.
@BigJoe84

Have you at any time in the past set the air gap of your Crank Position Sensor (CPS), to the factory-recommended 0.8mm? (Previously, the CPS was set to a specification of 1.0mm on assembly. However, many dealerships were filling warranty claims for repair/replacement of "faulty" coils because the gap was too wide - or the magnets too weak - to dependably signal the CDI to fire the coils.)

  • have you tested your CPS?
  • do you have a "known good" ignition module available that you can swap in for testing purposes?
  • I'm going to assume that the bike still cranks over fine?

馃 still thinking about this and trying to come up with reasons you would have no spark!

Regards,
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
@BigJoe84

Have you at any time in the past set the air gap of your Crank Position Sensor (CPS), to the factory-recommended 0.8mm? (Previously, the CPS was set to a specification of 1.0mm on assembly. However, many dealerships were filling warranty claims for repair/replacement of "faulty" coils because the gap was too wide - or the magnets too weak - to dependably signal the CDI to fire the coils.)

  • have you tested your CPS?
  • do you have a "known good" ignition module available that you can swap in for testing purposes?
  • I'm going to assume that the bike still cranks over fine?

馃 still thinking about this and trying to come up with reasons you would have no spark!

Regards,
John
i have tested it and am getting a proper pulse, no i don't have access to another ignition module, it does crank over fine, but no spark. I am guessing that the igniter has been fucked over, the previous owner erroneously installed a 2014 wiring harness when the bike stopped running (it originally stopped running because they had used **** fuel and the carbs were full of green ****) the owner before him was the one that bobbed the bike out, stripped a lot of stuff off it. so im kind of trying to clean up two previous messes with no previous knowledge of motorcycles
 

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'06 Speedmaster
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ill look up how to check/set the air gap
It's inside the R/H engine cover with the alternator.
You'll need to get a new cover gasket.
And, the first step of the process is to drain the engine of oil (I know... weird that the alternator that charges the battery and keeps things running electrically is bathed in oil, right?!), so you might as well also get oil & filter for an oil change.

As for tools to set the air gap you'll just need a feeler gauge of the correct thickness (0.8mm), and a torx driver/bit (T-25 I think), for the screws that hold down the pick up coil.

Regards,
John

P.S. I forgot to ask... do you have a Haynes or factory service manual?
 

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'06 Speedmaster
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@BigJoe84

Did you replace the 2014 harness with one for the correct year? (I'm pretty sure there would be some fairly significant differences from the original-year harness due to fuel-injection, electronics and the sensors required for the newer model.)

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
@BigJoe84

Did you replace the 2014 harness with one for the correct year? (I'm pretty sure there would be some fairly significant differences from the original-year harness due to fuel-injection, electronics and the sensors required for the newer model.)

John
i replaced the wiring harness, and i do have a service manual
 

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1998 T595 Daytona 2014 Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS
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7,960 Posts
Not really weird that the stator is cooled by oil. Electronics that generate heat are often cooled with oil. It's not a conductor. I ran an electron microscope that ran on 50K volts. The entire electronics of the machine sat fully submerged in oil. Not sure if you really need to drain the oil. If on the side stand, not much oil should leak out when the cover is removed.
 

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Do you have more pictures of the wiring schematic , the ECU ( computer , what ever they refer to it as ) needs sensors to tell it when
to spark , frequently , crank or cam position sensors tell it when to spark . Some can be measured with an ohm meter (if you have the specs)
some simply need replacement . Without a bit more wiring info I'm clutching at straws . Some of these sensors simply need removing and
cleaning as they frequently have a magnet in them and metal sticks to them and they fail to operate . Some motorcycles need the plugs left in
the cylinders ( and the plug leads connected to other plugs outside the cylinder head) to check for spark . These were usually used in bikes
that only used crank position sensors to trigger the ECU (ECM , or whatever) . Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Do you have more pictures of the wiring schematic , the ECU ( computer , what ever they refer to it as ) needs sensors to tell it when
to spark , frequently , crank or cam position sensors tell it when to spark . Some can be measured with an ohm meter (if you have the specs)
some simply need replacement . Without a bit more wiring info I'm clutching at straws . Some of these sensors simply need removing and
cleaning as they frequently have a magnet in them and metal sticks to them and they fail to operate . Some motorcycles need the plugs left in
the cylinders ( and the plug leads connected to other plugs outside the cylinder head) to check for spark . These were usually used in bikes
that only used crank position sensors to trigger the ECU (ECM , or whatever) . Peter
ive checked the pickup coil/crank position sensor/whatever you want to call it, and it is functioning properly, sending a pulse
 

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As mentioned earlier ( since it has a CPS ) the plugs should still be in the head when checking for spark . Just attach the
plug leads to any other spark plug held against the cylinder head . The momentary slowing of the crank turning while under
compression would tell the ECU to fire that cylinder . Are you able to tell if that pulse you mentioned can be checked back
at the ECU ? Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
As mentioned earlier ( since it has a CPS ) the plugs should still be in the head when checking for spark . Just attach the
plug leads to any other spark plug held against the cylinder head . The momentary slowing of the crank turning while under
compression would tell the ECU to fire that cylinder . Are you able to tell if that pulse you mentioned can be checked back
at the ECU ? Peter
i have no idea what you are asking about checking the pulse at the ecu, i checked it at the plug lead from the sensor itself. there is also no spark whether a plug is in place or not because its not firing at all
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I think i am just going to sell the fucking thing rather than keep throwing money down a hole.
 

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'06 Speedmaster
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@BigJoe84

I hate to say it (and I think you've already reached this conclusion), but I think your ignition module is toast!
Here's a link to the Triumph Twin Power website for top quality modules (and before others chime in, yes there are other vendors and other brands (Procom), of modules available out there).

I fought, clawed and scratched for over a year to overcome and correct the gremlins my used Speedmaster had... I know my bike intimately now and feel a great sense of accomplishment and pride that I (along with much helpful input and guidance from the members of this forum), figured it out and resolved the problems! I love riding my bike every opportunity I get!

You've come this far, don't give up on her!

Good luck brother!

Regards,
John
 

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I think if you set your multi-meter to dc volts and connect one lead to the wire that comes from your cps at the cpu,
you may be able to see if that pulse is making it to the ecu (It'll probably be faint) . But better to eliminate every
outside possibility before suggesting replacing a pricey ecu
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
@BigJoe84

I hate to say it (and I think you've already reached this conclusion), but I think your ignition module is toast!
Here's a link to the Triumph Twin Power website for top quality modules (and before others chime in, yes there are other vendors and other brands (Procom), of modules available out there).

I fought, clawed and scratched for over a year to overcome and correct the gremlins my used Speedmaster had... I know my bike intimately now and feel a great sense of accomplishment and pride that I (along with much helpful input and guidance from the members of this forum), figured it out and resolved the problems! I love riding my bike every opportunity I get!

You've come this far, don't give up on her!

Good luck brother!

Regards,
John
i agree with you on the ignition module, i just hate to spend that much for a part, and then find it wasnt the problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
I think if you set your multi-meter to dc volts and connect one lead to the wire that comes from your cps at the cpu,
you may be able to see if that pulse is making it to the ecu (It'll probably be faint) . But better to eliminate every
outside possibility before suggesting replacing a pricey ecu
i don't understand what that test would rule out, are you suggesting that the signal is not strong enough to travel from the plug lead to the ecu? i don't think there are any components between them
 

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'06 Speedmaster
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... I just hate to spend that much for a part, and then find it wasnt the problem
I agree. That being said, I exhausted every avenue toward resolving what was exhibiting as ignition system issues BEFORE I plunked down my hard-earned cash for a new CDI module. Which turned out to not be the only cause for the issues I was having (carb issues also)!
BUT, my bike ran better than before and since I resolved the fueling issue, fires the plugs better than the stock box ever did!

Food for thought!

John
 

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That suggestion was to hopefully rule out any questionable connections or wire shorts etc . You've kept us all busy trying
to resolve this from afar ! Peter
Also I was hoping you could check the pulse from the CPS to the ignition module ( ecm , etc)
 
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