there is power to the coils, i plan on further testing in the following days, i cannot confirm either that the coils are good, or they are receiving the proper trigger, thank youThis is a bit strange , after reading through these posts again and looking at the wiring diagram , I see no illustration for the
ignition coils , or their wiring . Have you been able to verify that there is power to the coils ? It's kinda hard to get a spark without
power to them . And if power is getting to them , I'd consider checking the lead that is supposed to trigger the spark ( by opening the circuit),
and causing the collapse of the field in the coil and lead the corresponding spark down the plug leads through the cap to the plugs
and across the plug gap to ground . Peter
This is very understandable, the leads were indeed disconnectedThis coil primary resistance check is only valid if the leads to the coil are disconnected .Then the plug leads will need
the ohms range on your multi-tester set to kilo-ohms , as the plug leads are typically ~5000 ohms and maybe more if
the plug cap is a resistor type . On some coil types you might have to remove the spark plug wire to test it , on others
they stay in the coil and can be tested from one of the coil leads to the plug cap . Hope this is understandable , Peter
@Moto-Uno,With many ohm meters , readings under 1 ohm are sometimes iffy , so I think your low readings are probably good . Not so sure about
the 5 ohm reading though . I'm not sure what is is responsible for cutting off the electrical flow to the coils , which causes the spark .
Is the "igniter" responsible for this ? Is there another page of the wiring diagram that shows the ignition coils and their wiring ? Peter
thanks a million pal, i''l post more progress/info wwhen the news coils arrive.@Moto-Uno,
Yes, the Igniter (CDI), triggered by the Crank Position Sensor (CPS), is responsible for the signal which breaks the voltage in the primary winding and induces the high-energy voltage from the secondary winding through the plug wire to the spark plug gap.
As I'm sure you're already aware, if there is a breakdown with any component in the circuit, a "no spark" or "weak spark" condition will result.
I've had to troubleshoot these issues myself (personally and helping out friends) - in almost every case, incremental component testing (including replacement with a known-good component to verify failure when continuity/resistance testing was inconclusive), was the only way to isolate the cause and make repair.
I've been following this post. You're on the right track! Keep at it, be patient and don't get discouraged... you'll get there!